LOUD SCREECH right after start up then goes away - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 8 Old 06-07-2011, 09:10 PM Thread Starter
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LOUD SCREECH right after start up then goes away

when i start my f250 it makes this super loud high pitch squeal from 2-10 seconds and then goes away. i would not have realized anything if it wasent making a noise cause everything seems ok but it only does it some times.

thanks so much for any help or input!!!!!

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post #2 of 8 Old 06-10-2011, 05:57 AM
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I believe there is a TSB on this with "No known Fix". Mine does it too every so often.
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post #3 of 8 Old 06-12-2011, 09:14 PM
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I did a search and it looks like the tensioners are a failing piece, check them and see if they are leaning.
or it could it be the serpentine belt?

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Last edited by 06DZL; 06-12-2011 at 09:36 PM.
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post #4 of 8 Old 06-12-2011, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06DZL View Post
I did a search and it looks like the tensioners are a failing piece, check them and see if they are leaning.
or it could it be the serpentine belt?
Mine failed about year n half ago. The local dealership has one diesel mech and he had a heart attack, so I did it myself. Also did belt too.

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post #5 of 8 Old 06-13-2011, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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scale of 1-10 for a very unexperianced person how hard is that to do??

2008 F250 CCSB
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No limit intake and Cold Side Pipe
EGR Delete
CCV Mod
5" Flo Pro
Ranch Hand
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post #6 of 8 Old 06-13-2011, 06:45 AM Thread Starter
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is it somthing that needs to be taken care of??

2008 F250 CCSB
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No limit intake and Cold Side Pipe
EGR Delete
CCV Mod
5" Flo Pro
Ranch Hand
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-03-2011, 03:56 PM
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bump on this as i believe i am having the same thing happen . with just 30,000 mile truck. should i just take it back to the dealer to figure out as i still have paper tags
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post #8 of 8 Old 07-03-2011, 06:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 6.4PSD View Post
scale of 1-10 for a very unexperianced person how hard is that to do??
with no experience id say if 10s worst itd be an 11.

Youll need to remove the upper shroud and be able to reinstall it with out breaking it. I dont know how many ive broken through the years, theyre a pain in the a**. Then you rotate the fan til you get the biggest opening aligned with the tensioner and using an extension on a ratchet a GOOD ratchet like my flex head bent handled 80 tooth snap on, not a cheap craftsman throw away, you wont get enough of a swing because theres way too much slop in those ratchets. release the tension With the tensioner pushed to release tension you have to be fast and rip that belt off if your going to replace it. Then you zip the bolts out i believe theyre 15s and 10s again using the widest opening in the fan. Once you remove it youll have to wiggle it out and install your new one. Thats the way i do em get em done fast too. 20 minutes i believe was the fastest ive done em. using air tools of course.

If your not after a world speed record i suggest removing the fan once you remove the upper shroud rotate the fan 13mm nuts at the top and 15 mm bolts at the bottom get a 48 or is it 47mm wrench to bust the fan nut off the water pump hub. Youll need some way to hold the motor from turning this is where the Lisle air hammer wrench for water pumps comes in handy or the Blue Point hub holder it looks like a claw and it holds the 2 bolts on the back of the fan and if you slip your knuckles will hate you. Usually 1 good solid blast with my long barrel with the pneumatic fan clutch wrench kit and its lose, some are a ***** and dont come lose, either because heat soaking, or prior techs using thread locker. I use High temp motorcraft high nickle never seize on the water pump hubs in case i ever have to remove it, it will never give me trouble. Same with cab bolts that didnt spin the cage nuts.

I invested in the hammer head 3/8ths drive I/R ratchet that thing is an animal. works great. Keep my 3/8ths mini matco to get in those tight areas.
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