EGR Delete Kit Installed....Still Having Issues - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 04-26-2011, 09:19 PM
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EGR Delete Kit Installed....Still Having Issues

Ok guys...here is a brain stumper. I have a 2008 F450 DRW with the 6.4L. Truck has 112,000 miles on it. Truck was making the tea kettle whistle on acceleration and dropping a fair amount of whitish smoke at idle, and slowly using coolant. I have driven the truck well over 1,500 miles towing my boat and car hauler with the same symptoms with engine temps staying well under half way and no coolant puking, only whistling, which Im still not sure where it is coming from (any help there would also be appreciated...not coming from either coolant bottle that I can tell as I removed both lids while running and covered with my hand and still get the same noise..could it be a turbo boost leak?) I decided to go with a Sinister EGR Delete kit after hearing many good reviews. Had a good shop install it and I am still getting same symptoms. I really dont feel it is head gaskets as I have no hot running issues and the truck is fully drivable. Please let me know where to look next, as I am stumped and dont want to give the crooks at the Ford Stealership $150 and hour to diagnose. They should comp the Diag seeing as how crappy of a job they did putting these trucks together in the first place. Thanks
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Old 05-12-2011, 03:11 PM
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6.4

I get the same sound from my truck kinda like a squealing belt. I have dpf/doc delete and a xrt pro but Im running no power. The truck only makes the sound when its hot but if I let it idle down the sound will stop?


Any ideas?
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Old 05-12-2011, 04:14 PM
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Does the noise only happen when it's under load? If so, it could be an intercooler boot is cracked or your down pipe is leaking. I might be wrong, but sure sounds like a leak in either of the two.
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Old 05-12-2011, 05:36 PM
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no load just driving, but only when its warm? but it will go away when it cools off and it makes the noise when you are in park just sitting there. but as i said it will stop after you let it cool off.
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Old 05-12-2011, 05:52 PM
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One thing I've ran into with the 6.4 is ehaust manifold leaks. Usually it's a leak on one of the back 2 holes, either #7 or #8. It will come and go at different RPM's and loads. It make a shrill whistling noise. It's usually the result of a broken exhaust manifold bolt. The whistling noise is from it blowing over the gasket. It's unlike any exhaust leak I've ever heard on a diesel.

Take a flashlight and creeper and look at your back manifold bolts. Look for signs of exhaust leaking. Try and get someone to rev the truck up till it makes the noise. Then take a long screwdriver and poke at the gasket. If the noise changes when you do that, then mystery solved!

I'm just guessing that when the engine warms up the manifold expands, making the exhaust leak worse. Good luck with it! Drilling these bolts out can be a real pain in the butt. Hope this helps.
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Old 05-13-2011, 08:54 AM
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Cracked turbo inlet flex joint. Same symptoms I have been having and my dealer finally tracked it down this week. It is a cab/off repair they told me.
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Old 05-13-2011, 03:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shadrack View Post
It is a cab/off repair they told me.
actually the workshop manual has you removing the transmission to access the rh up-pipe. there is a much easier way to do it though. no trans removal or full cab removal necessary
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Old 05-15-2011, 07:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by canyon.classics View Post
Ok guys...here is a brain stumper. I have a 2008 F450 DRW with the 6.4L. Truck has 112,000 miles on it. Truck was making the tea kettle whistle on acceleration and dropping a fair amount of whitish smoke at idle, and slowly using coolant. I have driven the truck well over 1,500 miles towing my boat and car hauler with the same symptoms with engine temps staying well under half way and no coolant puking, only whistling, which Im still not sure where it is coming from (any help there would also be appreciated...not coming from either coolant bottle that I can tell as I removed both lids while running and covered with my hand and still get the same noise..could it be a turbo boost leak?) I decided to go with a Sinister EGR Delete kit after hearing many good reviews. Had a good shop install it and I am still getting same symptoms. I really dont feel it is head gaskets as I have no hot running issues and the truck is fully drivable. Please let me know where to look next, as I am stumped and dont want to give the crooks at the Ford Stealership $150 and hour to diagnose. They should comp the Diag seeing as how crappy of a job they did putting these trucks together in the first place. Thanks
Just curious. What exactly do YOU do for a living? Do you charge $$$ for your services, or do you get paid by the hour for the company you work for? And that said, if you do get paid for your services, does this make YOU a "crook" as well. And lastly, how is it the dealership's fault for the way these trucks are constructed? For what it's worth, I have my own personal opinion of some of FoMoCo's offerings, of which I'll keep to myself, but I fail to see how it becomes MY fault how one of their offerings is put together.

Lastly, yes the symptoms described do appear to sound like a right side up-pipe flex joint crack. And no, it isn't a complete cab-off repair as sinner6.0L posts.

....... and sorry if the last five years and counting experience of working on diesels and other of FoMoCo's fine offerings makes ME a crook. I guess I need to find another profession.
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Old 05-16-2011, 02:23 AM
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Haha! Nice reply. This will probably get this thread way off track but I agree. I notice alot of people complaining about having to take their trucks in to get worked on. Like their upset that they can't figure it out themselves.

Not that I don't think you shouldn't be able to fix it yourself. Maybe they could figure it out if they would invest the same money into diagnostic tools that most mechanics have to pay.

Let me give you a breakdown of what I'm talking about. For your average small shop to try and diagnose these things you need a decent scan tool. Well right there is a roughly $4000 dollar purchase. Even if I were to charge 75 dollars just to plug it in to a truck, it would still take 53 plug ins just to pay it off! And no one is going to pay you that just to check codes, when you can go to an auto parts store and get them to do it for free. And after a year you would probably need to update the software on it, which is going to run you another $1000 bucks.

Now you can get the auto parts store to scan your codes, then try and figure it out from there. More power to you. That's what half the poeple on here do.

But at least if you get a decent shop to check it out for you they can not only check codes, but run onboard tests and moniter parameters to try and find the problem.

But you'll never hear about that on here. There will just be the same stories about how you got so ripped off by just getting someone to "plug into it for 5 minutes".

People must think that if you have a repair shop and charge for doing diagnostic work it's like having a money tree. "Oh, you have a check engine light on? Cha ching!" I wish it did work that way. Really if you can make the money back on the scanner before it's outdated your doing good.

Another example. FICM reflashing. Just bought the cardaq pass thru to do FICM reflashing at 2000 bucks. You can really only charge about $100 bucks to do a reflash. Take the 33 dollars out Ford wants for the programming fee and your at $67 that you will make for doing a reflash. So now I have to do 30 reflashes just to break even? I won't even make any money back on my investment till I do 30 OF THEM! I probably won't even do close to 30 in a year. Yet for me to try and be competitive and offer a full service shop I need it.

Give these guys a break. They charge so much because they have a huge investment in not only their tools, but themselves as well.
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Old 05-16-2011, 09:22 AM
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The Tea Kettle sound is 9 out 10 times the r/s turbo up pipe flex joint cracked. Just got my truck out of shop for the same problem. only takes about a day in shop once they gett the part.
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