I bought a lemon 6.4, new engine? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 27 Old 03-30-2017, 08:23 PM Thread Starter
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I bought a lemon 6.4, new engine?

I just bought a 2008 6.4 95k miles. W/cheap EGR delete(cap at second cooler only)
Drove it home and noticed low coolant level and no heat in the cabin, when I added fluid and took it for a drive I found that the radiator was leaking. I replaced the radiator and two drives later the water pump went out. I replaced the water pump and thermostats and drove it. Then found the degas bottle over flowing. I also noticed white smoke out the exhaust once engine heated up.
I installed a pressure gauge on the 3/8 coolant line and drove around. I was at 5psi until I brought my boost over 20psi and I saw the pressure in the coolant system go to the same boost pressure.(20psi) and then drop to 15-16(cap pressure)
I figure it was my HG. Is there any way that it could be the ****ting EGR delete? Both coolers are still there and coolant is still going through them, there is just a welded cap at the end of the lower cooler. I thought maybe the boost pressure was entering the coolant system from the EGR coolers?

Moving forward, I took the truck to the shop and had the head gaskets check. They found no issues with the head gaskets. While the truck was at the shop they where running it on a hill for an hour(not sure why) and oil started leaking out the exhaust. They let it run longer and it created a puddle of oil out the exhaust.
I was going to have him do the turbos but was scared that it could be a piston after readying forums. I had him remove the oil cap the next day. He said engine cold the cap would stay but once the engine warmed up there was a lot of blowby.(cap would not stay)

Am I to drive this truck off a cliff or what?
Im now looking for a motor, is this the right route to go or should I get another opinion?

Sorry guys that was a lot to digest!
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post #2 of 27 Old 03-31-2017, 05:29 AM
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EGR needs to be removed and checked for leaks or properly deleted. Not sure how they checked the head gaskets, but a combustion gas tester would have alerted for gas from the head gasket or egr.

Is the dpf/doc also deleted?

Have you checked for blow-by at the oil filler cap?

Have they done a compression test?

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post #3 of 27 Old 03-31-2017, 06:16 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the response!
DPF is deleted, not sure on the DOC.
Im not sure all the test they did for HG. But they did tell me they completed three chemical test on the coolant and passed all of them. There is blowby with cap off but only once engine heats up. Also no compression test completed get.
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post #4 of 27 Old 03-31-2017, 06:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshpm View Post
Thanks for the response!

DPF is deleted, not sure on the DOC.

Im not sure all the test they did for HG. But they did tell me they completed three chemical test on the coolant and passed all of them. There is blowby with cap off but only once engine heats up. Also no compression test completed get.


I would ask for a compression test and pull EGR cooler. Blowby on these engines is normal. Unscrew the oil cap and sit it in the filler tube. If it doesn't blow off of the tube you're probably ok, there are youtubes to demonstrate this.

A simple place to start is to run cylinder balance (after resetting injector adaptive tables) and a relative compression test.

I'm willing to bet the egr dead heading has caused it to crack which would cause white smoke and high coolant pressure. The oil from exhaust is another story.

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post #5 of 27 Old 03-31-2017, 07:12 AM Thread Starter
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I agree with you on the cooler!
I had him try the oil cap test and it stayed on the hole until the truck heated up. About 15mins at idle and the cap blows off.
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post #6 of 27 Old 03-31-2017, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by joshpm View Post
I agree with you on the cooler!

I had him try the oil cap test and it stayed on the hole until the truck heated up. About 15mins at idle and the cap blows off.


With that and oil in the exhaust I would suspect a cracked piston. They should be able to verify this with a compression test.

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post #7 of 27 Old 03-31-2017, 07:18 AM Thread Starter
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That's what I was thinking but was hoping not. You think its worth the compression test? I just don't want to trow any more $ at this thing. I'm pretty sure the test is expensive due to the removal of the injectors.
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post #8 of 27 Old 03-31-2017, 07:29 AM
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I bought a lemon 6.4, new engine?

Quote:
Originally Posted by joshpm View Post
That's what I was thinking but was hoping not. You think its worth the compression test? I just don't want to trow any more $ at this thing. I'm pretty sure the test is expensive due to the removal of the injectors.


They'll pull glowplugs to test. If they had IDS they could do balance and relative compression to pinpoint the cylinder.

Either way, you're going to be patching this block up or replacing it.

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Carli Backcountry 2.5", 11+ Leaf Springs, SCT 3015R/Tyrant Tuned, Edge Insight CTS, RCD EGR Delete/Elbow, H&S S364.5SXE Single, BPD Full Oil Cooler/Filter Relocate
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post #9 of 27 Old 03-31-2017, 07:56 AM
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Hindsight is always 20/20 but.. This is exactly why I test drive used vehicles for at least a couple hours and never buy from individuals (because they rarely let you drive it long enough).
I live an hour away from the dealership I bought my 2011 F250 in January.
I drove it around for about 2 hours that night, parked it in the garage in a clean spot, and checked all fluids.
Next morning I checked underneath for drips and checked all fluid levels again and for any obvious signs of abuse/neglect.
then drove it around town for about an hour (checked braking, acceleration, lights, signals, AC/heat, electricals, etc.) then drove it another hour back to the dealership, to buy it.
I'm guessing you bought this from an individual though.
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post #10 of 27 Old 03-31-2017, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SixFive View Post
Hindsight is always 20/20 but.. This is exactly why I test drive used vehicles for at least a couple hours and never buy from individuals (because they rarely let you drive it long enough).
I live an hour away from the dealership I bought my 2011 F250 in January.
I drove it around for about 2 hours that night, parked it in the garage in a clean spot, and checked all fluids.
Next morning I checked underneath for drips and checked all fluid levels again and for any obvious signs of abuse/neglect.
then drove it around town for about an hour (checked braking, acceleration, lights, signals, AC/heat, electricals, etc.) then drove it another hour back to the dealership, to buy it.
I'm guessing you bought this from an individual though.
This is a very reasonable request of any dealership that is trying to sell a used diesel. If a dealer won't allow an overnight and lengthy drive test of a diesel truck forget it. The cost of the vehicle and then the cost of the repairs are big ticket items. Diesel are NOT cheap transportation options, they are for specific heavy duty needs of the owners. Buyer Beware.
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