OK so My truck matches PERFECTLY with ICP Sensor issues on the 6.0s. I watched some videos, read some diagnostics- psyched that I found out exactly what was wrong... until I cound out there IS no ICP sensor on the 6.4.
Any idea what is the equivalent?
Truck runs PERFECT cold. But then when it gets real warm (especially when hauling) the thing idles like death, with RPMs shooting up and down, it almost stalls then revs up, sounds like its misfiring.
Found the TSBs for the 6.0 and it matches exactly what they say to do.
Any idea what could be the issue? Is there like an ICP Sensor equivalent on the 6.4 that it could be?
No codes at all, not even pending codes. Checked with my shop, they pretty much said "Your just going to have to wait for codes to be thrown" but after 6 months its getting worse but still no codes! Shops mediocre, but the good shop is a few hours away.
No smoke. I may be running due for a fuel filter (right around 6k? miles?) but most people are saying they are good for up to 10k. Oil was changed about 700 miles ago. Dealer ran through everything and said it was perfect. Runs fine at speed, problem is just at low RPM/idle
I only drive the truck about once every 2 weeks. Planning a 1400 mile haul in a few weeks though and I'm worried about running into trouble.
Fuel rail pressure sensor would be the equivalent to icp.
Monitor the frp desired, frp actual, and frp voltage pid's with the problem occurring. Look for irradic voltage reading from frp.
Really wishing I didn't go with a scangauge II now... Doesn't seem to be an x gauge for FRP, seems like you need a dashtaq or a handful of others to monitor FRP.
I don't understand why there's no CEL... its getting REALLY bad. Almost wrecked today because it surged hard enough to overpower my brake at a stoplight. Now I started "Parking" it any time I stop. I'll continue to research though and hopefully come up with something. Only happens at idle and when very warm (30 minutes + driving)
I may just want to go replace the FRP and see if that makes life better. I know its not a minor undertaking, but it may be worth doing at home as opposed to trying to find someone else to take the 4 hour round trip to the good diesel shop. All my research says that should throw a CEL though...
I'll watch the voltage (Green wire) and see if thats erratic, and inspect the wiring.
Find a new shop.... if its running like **** and they cant do anything about it because it hasn't thrown a code, then I wouldn't want to deal with them. Drain the water and change the filters, check all your filters for contamination( Fuel filter housing). The Torque app you can download on your phone works with most 20$ obd wireless scanners on amazon, monitors fuel rail pressure(as well as most other parameters you could want). take the ebp sensor off and clean the tube out, if the tube is clogged it will do weird things that can cause a surge. Do the cheap stuff first and then move on from there.
The close shop is great. They just don't know diesels... (Except the tech owns a ram and the owner had a Chevy, both diesels) They are open about that. Finding someone to pick me up /drive me two hours round trip to the decent diesel shop is really really tough.
Normally I would just trailer another car, but I don't know if that's a smart move with this issue. Maybe I can though?
I'll do those things first... Thanks a bunch for the recommendations... I have a torque scanner too. Didn't know that did fuel rail pressure... Psyched about that!
Seems every FRP sensor failure has a different symptom. I'm working on one now with intermittent no starts. When it starts its fine. Sometimes it will die. When it won't start, key on not cranking rail pressure literally freaks out. Fluctuates from 16k all the way down to 900psi. I bet yours is doing this after it warms up.
If there is irradic signal from the frp, another area to look at is the passenger side injector harness connector. Look for water ingress.
Also, where the frp sensor connector pigtail resides, can sometimes rub against the fuel line, under valve cover.
Ya checked plug already, its full of dielectric grease. Assuming that problem was happening before. Opening it up tomorrow. Sorry OP to hijack but guarantee you yours is a sensor problem
Mine was sensor, pulled VC and inspected harness, all good. Checked scanner KOEO read 16kish psi. Unplugged sensor dropped to 0 and pegged out 5.12 volts. Installed new sensor read 0 psi and .23 volts. Test drove, restarted 57 times, all good.
Still not solved.... it doesn't look like torque does FRP. Urgh...
So how do you check FRP Voltage? By wiring to the sensor and sticking a voltmeter to it?
I've been spending some time on google... it looks like it'll be a while.
Does anyone think its ok to do about 90 miles with a 7k trailer with this condition, or am I better off continuing to diagnose it at home? Good diesel shop is a hair over 90 miles away, but I'll have to trailer a vehicle to drive home with. Otherwise I'll continue to diagnose it from home, I just can't seem to figure out how to check the FRP without one of the handful of scanners that track it.
I have Torque Pro and a Scangauge II.
I'm starting to think it would be easier just to buy a new sensor and harness and install them in my driveway! haha.
Its not a bad job at all honestly. And the sensor is roughly $50 retail at the stealership. (Idk how they make a sensor that reads 25k psi less expensive than a sensor that reads oil pressure up to only 4k psi and its $180.
Torque does FRP you have to go into the predefined list and add the powerstroke.... Let Ron show you how go to 11 mins...
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