Will a Job 3 motor go in a Job 1 truck?

[elibenson]

I did a dumb (DO NOT OVER REV YOUR ENGINE with the higher Spartan tunes), and messed my truck up pretty thoroughly. It's out of warranty now, and I am weighing options. I know where there is a wrecked truck with a good engine. The only problem I really see (aside from the time it takes to change that effer) is that it is a job 3 truck, and mine's a job 1.

Is there any physical differences in the engines, or is it just computer and body changes. Or am I going to run into a problem like the people that try to install a '06 6.0l in an '03 6.0l truck. That is, they bolt up, but don't actually work with the computer without major computer re-working.

In case anyone actually read it this far, and want to know about what I did to mess the truck up: 4.30 gears won't let a truck go over 120 mph without running out of revs. So don't. I heard a resounding "BANG" and then I let out. I thought for sure that a connecting rod let go. It wasn't. Once I got to stopping, I realized that the engine was popping out the intake. I think I smacked a valve, and bent/broke a push rod or two. Which is quickly followed by the lifter rotating in the lifter bore, and scratching the cam shaft. I think that TwinTurboStroker (Julian) did about the same thing when he did a burn-out one time. If I recall correctly, it cost him about $6000 to have one piston/con rod, new cam, new lifter/push rod/rocker, new valves, re-grind the valves, and a bunch of labor for pulling and completely breaking the engine down to it's nuts and bolts and putting it all back together.

So, for a little bit more, I can get a "new" engine with ~30K miles, and it comes with turbos, accessories, etc.

[jason5288]

Originally Posted by elibenson

I did a dumb (DO NOT OVER REV YOUR ENGINE with the higher Spartan tunes), and messed my truck up pretty thoroughly. It's out of warranty now, and I am weighing options. I know where there is a wrecked truck with a good engine. The only problem I really see (aside from the time it takes to change that effer) is that it is a job 3 truck, and mine's a job 1.

Is there any physical differences in the engines, or is it just computer and body changes. Or am I going to run into a problem like the people that try to install a '06 6.0l in an '03 6.0l truck. That is, they bolt up, but don't actually work with the computer without major computer re-working.

In case anyone actually read it this far, and want to know about what I did to mess the truck up: 4.30 gears won't let a truck go over 120 mph without running out of revs. So don't. I heard a resounding "BANG" and then I let out. I thought for sure that a connecting rod let go. It wasn't. Once I got to stopping, I realized that the engine was popping out the intake. I think I smacked a valve, and bent/broke a push rod or two. Which is quickly followed by the lifter rotating in the lifter bore, and scratching the cam shaft. I think that TwinTurboStroker (Julian) did about the same thing when he did a burn-out one time. If I recall correctly, it cost him about $6000 to have one piston/con rod, new cam, new lifter/push rod/rocker, new valves, re-grind the valves, and a bunch of labor for pulling and completely breaking the engine down to it's nuts and bolts and putting it all back together.

So, for a little bit more, I can get a "new" engine with ~30K miles, and it comes with turbos, accessories, etc.

Im not real sure on this myself but I wouldnt see why it wouldnt work. The motors are the same but the computers could be a problem like in the 6.0. Someone else so chime in. What was it hitting in rpm's cause its got me a little worried and I dont wanna do mine?

[elibenson]

I don't recall exactly. I thought that you don't want to go over 4,200. Maybe some one would like to chime in and tell this idiot (me) what the redline is on this engine.

I calculated with my tire size (stock - 245/70R17) and the gears I have (4.30), and if 4200 is max RPM, and if I am in overdrive(gear ratio of ~0.7:1), the max speed I can go is somewhere around 117.5mph or very close to it.

I think the main thing is don't shift your tranny manually (and over rev) if you are trying to do a burn-out or something. And don't overspeed (and over-rev)

[Dave]

All this could over rev crap could be solved. Why the hell dont Matt and Nutty set a hard rev limit in the tunes

[BigIslandBoy]

Sorry about your motor. What happened to the ECM on the wreck? I'm no tech, but it seems if you had it your chances would be better. Some one will chime in and enlighten us all. Did you call MAtt at Spartan because he has a motor from a wreck that he is bulding up. He must have found out something.

[SCUFFY828]

engine should swap over just fine

[elibenson]

Originally Posted by SCUFFY828

engine should swap over just fine

Thanks for the info..

[elibenson]

Originally Posted by Dave

All this could over rev crap could be solved. Why the hell dont Matt and Nutty set a hard rev limit in the tunes

I actually like that they have no safeties on their tunes. It forces people to be cognizant of what they do. In my case, I can't say for one second that it was Spartan's fault. It was my fault entirely. I shouldn't have been stupid.

[DavidPhillips]

Originally Posted by Dave

All this could over rev crap could be solved. Why the hell dont Matt and Nutty set a hard rev limit in the tunes

No, this is not possible to prevent.

Even on a stock truck with your foot off of the throttle if you shift into a low gear with the truck moving it will spin the engine up. Call it reverse applied torque if you like.

[elibenson]

On a stock truck, the computer will know if you are going too fast to down shift, and will not shift down till you slow down. Even if you manually downshift. I've never tried this on a tuned truck. If it (a tuned truck) does let you have that sort of control, it could wreck your day pretty quick.