Rear lift block ? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 10-08-2009, 12:55 PM Thread Starter
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Rear lift block ?

I put a 2in leveling kit on my 250 and now i'd like to put a 1in - 1.5in block under the rear to level back out. I'd like to reuse the factory u bolts but don't think i can. i measured 1in from the top the nuts to the end of the bolts, but only 7/8in of threads left... prolly need longer u bolts don't i? i pull/haul some pretty heavy loads so i'd rather not loose my axel lol.

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post #2 of 9 Old 10-08-2009, 01:53 PM
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John at Cobbs Diesel performance is working with Top Gun Customz on a block that is what you are looking for It even has an off set pin that will recenter the axle. Give John a call

2008 F-250 SC/SB
2008 F-250 HD CC/SB-Sold
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post #3 of 9 Old 10-08-2009, 03:08 PM Thread Starter
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alrighty thanks

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post #4 of 9 Old 10-08-2009, 04:46 PM
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alrighty thanks
No problem

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post #5 of 9 Old 10-08-2009, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by cm351f View Post
I put a 2in leveling kit on my 250 and now i'd like to put a 1in - 1.5in block under the rear to level back out. I'd like to reuse the factory u bolts but don't think i can. i measured 1in from the top the nuts to the end of the bolts, but only 7/8in of threads left... prolly need longer u bolts don't i? i pull/haul some pretty heavy loads so i'd rather not loose my axel lol.
Just get a f350 block. I believe it is 4 inches.
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post #6 of 9 Old 10-13-2009, 09:38 AM
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I am in the same boat...Looks like the stock block is 2". Ready lift sells a 4" kit with bolts for like $140. The block is cast, just like the stock one.
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post #7 of 9 Old 10-13-2009, 09:51 AM
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typically the factory rear blocks are 2" and is not recommended to reuse U-bolts when altering. You can usually find local trucking companies that do their own repairs to make a set of U-bolts for you relatively cheap. I also recommend deleting the 2" stock blocks altogether, and just buying a 3" or 4" block. Be weary of your driveshaft angle though because this can cause excess wear on U-Joints at the rear diff. Just my recommendations since you said you do haul with it, if it were my truck, I wouldn't want any of my blocks to shift.

2004 F250 XLT 6" lift, 37" tires, zoodad, T6,
edge cs, k&n, revx, warn lockers, rhino bars
future: coolant filter, headstuds, bluespring, 4" turboback, tires..dam these tires

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post #8 of 9 Old 10-13-2009, 10:41 AM
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Be weary of your driveshaft angle though because this can cause excess wear on U-Joints at the rear diff. Just my recommendations since you said you do haul with it, if it were my truck, I wouldn't want any of my blocks to shift.
Considering the 350 uses a 4" block, I'm pretty sure its a non-issue
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post #9 of 9 Old 10-13-2009, 10:47 AM
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still dependant on whether the block is a tapered center pin or a non-tapered centerpin. I'm not familar with the 350 set up, but if its anything like my 250, I blew out my rear U-Joint when I was using a non-tapered block in the rear. Bought a new U-Joint and tapered 4" blocks. Now I have no problems.

I just recommend checking it out first.

2004 F250 XLT 6" lift, 37" tires, zoodad, T6,
edge cs, k&n, revx, warn lockers, rhino bars
future: coolant filter, headstuds, bluespring, 4" turboback, tires..dam these tires

Marines 2004-2009
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