How do I get my factory steering back

[caryt]

Crossover steering is just that, linkage is crosses over the passenger spring..not what we have on a leaf spring SD and cannot be used on small lifts. When you lower the track bar mount and the pitman arm equally you do not disturb the factory geometry your putting it back to factory.

[ZeroOne]

Originally Posted by caryt

Crossover steering is just that, linkage is crosses over the passenger spring..not what we have on a leaf spring SD and cannot be used on small lifts. When you lower the track bar mount and the pitman arm equally you do not disturb the factory geometry your putting it back to factory.

When the linkages cross above suspension components (or in the case of coil-sprung vehicles, the tie-rod higher than the axle tube), it is referred to as "high steer". You can see high-steer in the link I posted in both inverted-T and crossover types. (1st and 2nd image) The 4th image shows crossover, but not high steer. (Apparent by the fact that the tie rod is directly infront of the axle tube. True crossover is when the driver and passenger side knuckles are connected by one tie rod, directly, with steering being given to the passenger side knuckle from the pitman arm via a drag link.

You're absolutely correct with your comment on trackbar mounts and pitman arms. The reason for the questioning of geometry is that, the lift these guys are looking at uses a track bar drop with no change in pitman. For such a low lift, it probably would have been more thorough to use an adjustable track bar instead of dropping the mount.

[FX4STROKER]

Originally Posted by ZeroOne

When the linkages cross above suspension components (or in the case of coil-sprung vehicles, the tie-rod higher than the axle tube), it is referred to as "high steer". You can see high-steer in the link I posted in both inverted-T and crossover types. (1st and 2nd image) The 4th image shows crossover, but not high steer. (Apparent by the fact that the tie rod is directly infront of the axle tube. True crossover is when the driver and passenger side knuckles are connected by one tie rod, directly, with steering being given to the passenger side knuckle from the pitman arm via a drag link.

You're absolutely correct with your comment on trackbar mounts and pitman arms. The reason for the questioning of geometry is that, the lift these guys are looking at uses a track bar drop with no change in pitman. For such a low lift, it probably would have been more thorough to use an adjustable track bar instead of dropping the mount.

So please clear this up for me as I have been drinking heavly and have blurred vission right now and when I go to read a long paragraph I forget what the first part said when I get to the last part. So I dont need to drop the trac bar. Just get the truck re aligned.

[ZeroOne]

Originally Posted by FX4STROKER

So please clear this up for me as I have been drinking heavly and have blurred vission right now and when I go to read a long paragraph I forget what the first part said when I get to the last part. So I dont need to drop the trac bar. Just get the truck re aligned.

Lol... sorry about that! Your first step is to get it realigned. That will correct (among other things) the most important thing you've changed by lifting it; you caster. Caster affects the ease and response in the steering. Too much or too little, and the truck will either have dull, unresponsive steering, or be all over the place and touchy.

Since your kit did not come with a track bar drop (which is less desirable anyway), you'll have to check and see if your axle is shifted towards the driver side. If you feel it has been shifted, you can order an adjustable track bar to recenter the axle under the truck. This really depends on how much of a lift your leveling kit is, and may not be needed. Check other companies leveling kits to see what they offer for parts, to compare.

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Last edited by ZeroOne : 09-16-2009 at 07:59 AM.

[rod.10853]

Originally Posted by FX4STROKER

Could you tell me how thick your track bar spacer is? Ill drop the track bar and the carrier bearing a 1/2 and see if that helps. Is there anything else that needs a spacer?

Sorry it took me so long to ge back on this ... I totally "spaced" measuring the spacers So, the spacers are 3/4" . I agree with ZeroOne that the best way to go would to be to get your castor corrected and to get an adjustable track bar if needed. With that said, though, I have not yet adjusted my castor with cams, and I used the spacers on the track bar bracket and all is well with my truck. In summary, I put a 2.5" spacer up front under the coil springs, 3/4" spacers under the track bar bracket, 1/2" carrier bearing spacer, and 2" add-a-leafs in the rear. My truck is level and rides great. It feels like a big truck should feel ... I like it better than stock. I just need to correct the steering wheel, which is turned to the right about a 1/2 turn. And, I will get the castor fixed when I put the new tires and wheels on.

[FX4STROKER]

Originally Posted by rod.10853

Sorry it took me so long to ge back on this ... I totally "spaced" measuring the spacers So, the spacers are 3/4" . I agree with ZeroOne that the best way to go would to be to get your castor corrected and to get an adjustable track bar if needed. With that said, though, I have not yet adjusted my castor with cams, and I used the spacers on the track bar bracket and all is well with my truck. In summary, I put a 2.5" spacer up front under the coil springs, 3/4" spacers under the track bar bracket, 1/2" carrier bearing spacer, and 2" add-a-leafs in the rear. My truck is level and rides great. It feels like a big truck should feel ... I like it better than stock. I just need to correct the steering wheel, which is turned to the right about a 1/2 turn. And, I will get the castor fixed when I put the new tires and wheels on.

Thanks bud that's exactly what I needed to know. Do you have any pics of you truck how it sits with the 2'' add a leafs? I just have 2" blocks sitting ontop of the factory blocks in the rear.

[rod.10853]

Originally Posted by FX4STROKER

Thanks bud that's exactly what I needed to know. Do you have any pics of you truck how it sits with the 2'' add a leafs? I just have 2" blocks sitting ontop of the factory blocks in the rear.

I haven't taking any pics yet ... it looks funny to me with the small tires. But, actually the truck looks the way I think it should have come from Ford off the lot, being that it's a 4x4 I'll get some pics for you ...

[rod.10853]

Originally Posted by FX4STROKER

Do you have any pics of you truck how it sits with the 2'' add a leafs? I just have 2" blocks sitting ontop of the factory blocks in the rear.

Here's a picture of the truck with the 2" add-a-leaf. I left the stock 1.9"
F250 block in place along with the overload springs on top. That is to
say, I simply added the leaf into the leaf pack and I really
like the truck with the add-a-leafs in. I haven't driven on choppy freeway
yet, though ... we'll see how that feels ...

Attached Images

3.jpg (59.9 KB, 65 views)

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Last edited by rod.10853 : 09-19-2009 at 01:18 PM.

[FX4STROKER]

Originally Posted by rod.10853

Here's a picture of the truck with the 2" add-a-leaf. I left the stock 1.9"
F250 block in place along with the overload springs on top. That is to
say, I simply added the leaf into the leaf pack and I really
like the truck with the add-a-leafs in. I haven't driven on choppy freeway
yet, though ... we'll see how that feels ...

Thanks man it sits just like mine does. Here is how mine sits with the 2" blocks in the back. Im going to get 37'' tires before winter gets here.

[Lbs]

Cross over steering with a leveling kit? To say that's completely not needed (or even work) would be an understatement. I'm sure it has been stated in this thread, but look into a trac bar drop bracket and/or an adj. trac bar. Also alignment cams. As for the steering wheel, you can adjust that from the tie rod adjusting sleeve. Loosen it up and turn the tie rod with a pipe wrench until your steering wheel is straight.