Okay, so last year I started this project and it got put off for some time. I finally got the time to work on it so I wanted to post up some pics and info on what I did in case anybody else is interested in doing this. There is a thread on hidplanet.com about this called JnC's Mounting Method (with Rotational Adj Capability)
which describes a process used called the JNC method. While I didn't exactly follow this route, because the instructions are sometimes vague and confusing, I sort of developed my own method using his technique. First, I ordered the parts from The Retrofit Source online: headlight upgrades for all applications
who helped me out and answered all my questions. Excellent products and customer service!
Bi-Xenon FX-R Stage 3 Projector Kit (Morimoto Five5 Ballasts, Morimoto Five5 6k bulbs, LHD (left hand driver) projectors, Butyl Resealing glue, Panamera Shrouds)
xB LED White 120mm white
80mm rubber caps to seal the back of the light
Blue painters tape
#10 bolts, washers, nuts (I think they are #10x24 1")
Tap/drill bit set for #10 bolts
Easy-Off oven cleaner
Black Spray Paint (for painting shrouds and side marker lenses)
And probably a few other parts I am forgetting
First things first, remove the headlights from the truck and disconnect all lights (parking light, side marker, headlight). Next, remove the screws on the back of the headlight housing (I think there are 3 black screws deep down in the holes on the back of the light. I did one headlight at a time so I didn't have to rush and get them done. You could also order a spare set of lights so you can take your time with this project. You're going to need to heat up your oven to 220 degrees and put the light in there for 20mins. Make sure you put the rack at a very low position so your lamp doesn't bump the heating element up top or get too hot.
Next, remove the lamp after 20mins and set it on a towel so it doesn't move around. I wore a glove on one hand so I could hold the lamp down and not get burned, while using a small flathead screwdriver to pry open the light. Be very careful prying open the light, so you don't break the plastic tabs around the outside of the light. Slowly work your way around the entire outside edge of the headlight and break the seal of the glue. This could take you 10mins or so, so don't get impatient and screw up your light. Once you have broken the seal, start trying to pull the light apart. You should hear the glue starting to give way to the point the light comes apart. If not, you may need to heat it up again to soften up the glue. If your careful, you can pull the glue out in a few long strands and have a nice clean channel for resealing later.
Remove the plastic yellow sidemarker lens (if you want to paint it like I did).
Now you need to remove the bowl from the headlight. There are two plastic tabs on each of the plastic pieces holding the bowl in place. CAREFULLY use a small flathead screw driver and pry each claw open enough to slide the head of the screw out. Each piece has a claw on opposite sides so once you pry both, you need to apply pressure outward so the claw don't re-engage. Once both are loose, you can pull the bowl out and remove it. You can choose to remove your chrome finish inside your bowl like I did, or leave it. If you want to remove it, use the easy-off oven cleaner and it will just melt away.
Once this is done you can mark the back of the bowl using a sharpie marker. Use my picture as a reference by marking along the same lines on your headlight. Note the vertical lines and use them as a reference.
Use your dremel and cut out this pattern once it's marked properly. Don't worry about making the edges all pretty, nobody is going to see this part.
Next you have to make the L brackets. This part sucked because I don't have a bench vise and had to bend them using a hammer and a concrete edge. I think I found it's not worth using steel (so you can tap it) instead just using a flexible metal like aluminum or buying a pre-made L bracket. If you use a pre-made of some type of metal you can't tap, make sure you nylon lock nuts to secure everything down and prevent it from coming loose later. But you can follow my route too and buy a strip of steel and bend it, tap it, and form it. Whatever method you choose, you need a 90 degree L shaped piece of metal. The lengths aren't important because you will need to trim them later, but it has to be short enough on the back side of the projector to fit in the small space, and it will be cut down on the front to be as short as possible. It will look like this
I also tapped the two bottom holes on the projector and the top hole that will be on the inside of the projector for each one. If you tap both top holes because I just confused you, it doesn't matter. One won't be used anyways.
You can see where I used a rubber washer and a steel washer or two to get the alignment right. After that's all done I will add a nut on top to hold everything down securely.
Next I took a piece of white blank paper, and cut it to the same shape as the inside of the bowl. Once I got it pretty much cut to size, I place it inside and eyeballed the projector to line up straight. I pulled the paper back about 1/8" to compensate for the plastic lip on the front of the bowl. The paper is going to be used as a template later and placed on the bottom of the bowl.
Once that's done, use your marker to mark around the edges of the L brackets. Now remove the paper and the projector and flip the bowl over. Place the paper up against the bottom of the bowl and the fornt edge. Use the diagram you made to drill thru the paper as close to the front edge of the L bracket as possible.
You can also place the paper on the bottoms of the L bracket to mark where you drilled into the bowl so the holes line up.
Now tap your L bracket if your doing it the way I did.
Test fit everything to make sure you measured right
This is where you're going to need some time to go back and forth. Once you got the projector fit in the headlamp, you're going to need to get your alignment down pat. When I first started here's what it looked like. The lights are so bright I was able to do it in the daylight
Finally got it to look like this after some adjustments.
I used the factory headlight screw inside the headlamp to adjust my up and down when I got it down to fine tuning. If you need a rotational adjustment like I did at first, I added/removed washers between the L bracket and the bowl. Make sure you replace all the bolts that hold the lamp onto the truck each time you make adjustments. These bolts being tighter on one spot can affect your aim. I just made the adjustments keeping the clear front lens of the headlight off, and attaching the body of the lamp with the projector on it to the truck. Once you get the aim/alignment downpat, you're ready to move on. The rest will be continued later this week.