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Hard starts, gauges/stereo losing power, intermittent rough running. HELP!!

1K views 8 replies 4 participants last post by  Qholic 
#1 ·
Everything was hunky dory up until a week or so ago....

The truck has had a little trouble starting for quite some time now, sometimes it fires up nice and smooth, other times it barely sounds like it's fired and then smooths right out, and then other times I will turn the key for 5 seconds or so, nothing happens, key off-on, and it will start with either smoothly or rough. Other than that, nothing noticeable.

First order of business. Last week during our first rain for a while, I was driving through town and the radio quit. Looked down at my gauges, and all read zero. My radar detector plugged into the cigarette lighter also warned me of high voltage. (not that a radar detector is scientific proof, just thought I would add).
No problems over the dry weekend, however Saturday night while driving on some dirt roads it happened maybe 3 times. All for short periods of time.

Tuesday afternoon I went out to start my truck, and it would crank and crank with no success. Ran the batteries a little low so I had a friend come and jump me. After some coaxing, the truck finally started.

Fast forward to Wednesday morning. Had to pull some trailers at work that day, so before I left the house, I changed the tune to my towing tune. It was a brisk 28 degrees, and with the previous days mishap I didn't have very high hopes, however the truck fired right up.

Now Thursday, go to start the truck for work, crank and crank, no start. Ran the batteries low again. So I took them off and into the auto store for testing. 1 came back bad, and the other had a 30% charge. I bit the bullet and bought two new batteries hoping that would solve the problem. It didn't. Crank and crank to no avail. Decided to return the truck to stock tune, and voila, within 2 seconds of turning the key it fired up nicely. Changed back to tow for work, fired up fine, and off to make money.

I have also noticed a significant increase in the truck "hopping" while I go down the road. When the truck locks into overdrive at low rpm, it feels like I'm driving over a washboard. I can see the tailgate moving up and down and can feel it in the driver seat as well. I would say it is worse around 50-65mph or so. If I coast down a hill, or accelerate quickly, the problem also goes away...until its flat ground and low rpm's again....it also smooths right out if I turn tow/haul mode on and it runs in 4th gear. I had a tire out of round a few months back, and that paled in comparison to this nonsense.

Now today, I had no problems starting the truck for work. The hopping did seem a little more violent on the drive to work, however. It was a rainy day again and on my first trip, as I'm returning to work, gauges drop to zero, stereo stops, and radar detector alerts me. I had researched this problem a little, and quickly thought to try the power windows while it was happening. They would not roll down. The gauges stayed off for about 10? minutes (the longest ever) and the battery light on the dash flashed during this time. The problem happened one more time throughout the day (not nearly as long as before).

After work I was excited to get home and do some troubleshooting/fixing, however I am at a complete loss. Checked all the fuses and relays I could that related to my troubles, and all were fine. Only bad fuse was a 20A square fuse for the "trailer tow battery charge". Which I have now replaced. Pulled out the fuse panel for inspection, and all wiring harnesses were tight, free of corrosion, and water free.

I did not clear DTC's after changing batteries yesterday, because I figured with no power, everything would reset. Maybe Im just old school. Today, after hooking up my scanner, I got the following:

P0263 - Cylinder 1 contribution balance
P0603 - Internal control module keep alive memory error
P1379 - Fuel injector control module system voltage high
P2269 - Water in fuel condition

Truck just rolled 200k, was bullet-proofed and inspected at 145k. New FICM from BPD at 180k. All engine mods are in my sig, truck has 35's on it that have been recently rotated/balanced.

I apologize for the long thread, but I need my truck for work and I am boggled. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
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#2 ·
#3 ·
P0263 - Cylinder 1 contribution balance - Probably need a new injector.
P0603 - Internal control module keep alive memory error - means nothing, from disconnecting the batteries.
P1379 - Fuel injector control module system voltage high - Is your alternator overcharging? Might be time to replace. Check all your grounds at the battery, block, block to body. All of them.
P2269 - Water in fuel condition - When's the last time you changed filters?

Also I'd verify your FICM anyway. Bad ground or overcharging could have killed it.
 
#4 ·
Checked grounds today, all seemed well, one from pass side battery to block looked a little dirty and corroded, cleaned it up and put some grease on it.

Alternator is about a year old, ill pull it off and have it checked when I can.

Fuel filter and water sep. were changed just 3k miles ago.

Was also due for an oil change, so I did that today, and I will check codes in the morning and see how she does.

Still no progress on the gauges going out, Ive checked all fuses, relays, pulled off fuse panel, checked for water/corrosion and tightness of connections, all seemed well. It does seem to be water related though, it happens when it rains, and I washed the truck today and they went out on me while I was driving down the highway to dry it off.

Tomorrow will post an update after work of how everything goes.
 
#5 ·
Yea i would go around testing with a multimeter checking voltage and grounds.. Starting with the ficm. And checking voltage output of the alternator... I had a low voltage problem whenever it rained, turned out to be the alternator was going out.. Also check out your pcm connections and all the connections on wiring harness and make sure they arent getting wet or loose


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#6 ·
Drove truck in stock tune today, and it seemed to solve the bouncing issue. SCT needed an update, doing that now. I was just out checking power connections on the airdog and noticed a whine coming from old fuel filter location on top of motor. Went to remove cap to inspect and that sucker was on TIGHT. I removed the cap, re torqued it down to 14nm as stated on the cap, and the noise went away. Truck fired up like never before afterwords. Nice and strong.

Hopefully that was the issue, and the suction was adding stress to the pump, heating up the wires and burning fuses.

After the tuner is done updating ill load up the looney wild and see how it does. Fingers crossed.

Now if I could just solve the gauge issue (which hasn't been happening lately but it's been dry).


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#7 ·
I also have a question with my ESOF 4x4. Key on engine off, I turn the switch and hear the relay click, and actuator. But no 4x4. Checked vacuum lines to hubs and all were good. What gives?

Also, with engine running and blower on high, I do not experience air coming through defrost when I flip the 4x4 switch. Which I'm told is a telltale sign of a leak.

Pulled off hose going to hub with switch in 4x4 and felt no vacuum.

If it ain't one problem, it's another.


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#8 ·
Some kind of suction issue. I can still hear the housing sucking or whining or whatever while engine is running.


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#9 ·
Your vacuum pump is probably shot; it can run but if it is not pulling a vacuum the ESOF is not going to work or one of the lines has a crack in it. I would disconnect the line at the pump and see if it is pulling vacuum there. Also I noticed you said you have BPD FICM what is set at (48, 53 or 58 volts) if it is at 58 then that might be the reason for the P1379 - Fuel injector control module system voltage high. Which in that case is not much of a concern. As far as the other electrical issues I would recheck all of your grounds and I would defiantly not put any grease on them except a conductive grease (which you can get at Ace hardware etc... GB makes a good one). Most people think that putting a dielectric grease on there connections helps; it doesn't. Dielectric is just that it does not conduct electricity, it is good for keeping moisture out. I only use dielectric or any other grease to seal a connection. Also get the alternator checked out these trucks require good power and if you have a regulator going out it will screw with the trucks electronics. Good luck electrical problems are always a PIA to find. Let us know what you find we can always learn and help each other.
 
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