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  #1  
Old 11-24-2008, 06:36 PM
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Truck wont start

Well long story short i was drvinghome from work and I noticed the check gague light was on. My oil pressures gauge was pegged at zero. The truck ran and acted fine, wheni gave it throttle the gauge went back up to normal. It only happend when the truck was stopping. I parked the truck and went off to bed and woke up to find the truck cranking... but not starting. Had it towed to my buddies house and i'm waiting for my ford buddy to come down and take a peak at it. I'm nto quite sure what happened... or whatever. I told him and he said that there is a "switch" that goes bad on them, that could be the issues... or it could be the LPOP. As of now the truck cranks just fine but thats all it does. Just looking for some slight guidance as to what ya'all might think. My other buddy, who works on international says that it sounds like a HPO leak or failing HPOP..considering that the LPOP gears would take out the front cover if that let go, I'm kinda inclinded to beleive him.
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Old 11-24-2008, 06:51 PM
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Did your truck overheat? There is one very quick and simple test you can try yourself. Get your hands on a 36mm socket with rachet and remove the oil filter cap with filter. Get an assistant to crank the engine over, while the "button" on top of the oil filter standpipe is pressed down. In a normal situation, the oil filter housing should fill up very quickly as the engine is being cranked. If not, it may very well be a failed low pressure pump/front cover assembly. Before we jump the gun to that, I need to ask you a stupid question. What kind of oil filter are you using? Are you using the correct OEM Motorcrcaft oil filter, or one of those cheesy aftermarket oil filters that use the one-piece cap with it? I have come across a couple of instances where aftermarket filters that fit poorly have starved the high pressure oil system, causing hard/no-start symptoms like you describe. Another thing to look at, is your oil pressure switch on top of the oil cooler. If you see oil leaking from the switch itself, that could also be to cause of your gauge issue. Remember, the oil pressure gauge in your truck is only a SWITCH. This means it either reads pressure, or NO PRESSURE. It doesn't indicate HOW MUCH pressure.
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:05 PM
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Yeah i figured that one out..its a switch only...its not connected to the PCM(thus i dont know why it would matter or why that would precent the truck my starting) and its only good for 7PSI or below that. The oil filter is an AFE proguard filter, no cap. I changed my oil months ago... so I dont know why it would act up then. I can try the cranking thing tommarrow perhaps. I'l check and see when the hell my buddy may be comming down. No overheating on the truck... I have a quadzilla and it was reading normal coolant temps.
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:11 PM
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Low pressure oil needs to circulate before it will feed the high pressure oil system. The high pressure oil system is what controls the injectors, which it sounds like you are already aware. I would go with the OEM Motorcraft oil filter (FL-2016) and purchase the cap as well (and continue using the Motorcraft oil filter from now on) as a start. How is the oil level? Is it filled to the proper capacity with 15 quarts (14.7 litres)? What oil are you using? If you are in an area where temperatures are colder at this time of year, you should definitely be using 10W30.
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Old 11-24-2008, 07:18 PM
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Its Amsoil 15W-40 and i checked the oil.. its all sorts of full. Its about 30F average here. We just got off a real cold spell but its slowing heading back that direction. If i need LPOP to be replaced, how intensive is that job? What parts would I need. I mayjust get billet LPOP gears and call it good. My understanding of it.. is that it can all be done in the truck.. but you gotta pull all the crap off the front and get down to the bare front of the engine. Since they no longer make 2003 LPOP stuff i need an 05 and up which requires a new front cover.
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Old 11-25-2008, 04:35 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m-chan68 View Post
Low pressure oil needs to circulate before it will feed the high pressure oil system. The high pressure oil system is what controls the injectors, which it sounds like you are already aware. I would go with the OEM Motorcraft oil filter (FL-2016) and purchase the cap as well (and continue using the Motorcraft oil filter from now on) as a start. How is the oil level? Is it filled to the proper capacity with 15 quarts (14.7 litres)? What oil are you using? If you are in an area where temperatures are colder at this time of year, you should definitely be using 10W30.
In the winter here in Pa. I use Rotella 5W-40 and get starts within 2 seconds down to 15 deg. without the heater.
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Old 11-26-2008, 08:36 PM
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Did you get it going? A nother dumb question is it cranking fast enough? They wont build oil pressure if its not spinning fast enough. Also back to yhe oil filter discussion motorcraft and international patent there filters, so no other aftermarket filter has the same dimensions as the motorcraft. The motorcraft is taller than the aftermarkets by just a little bit, so the aftermarkets will allow oil to drain back into the crankcase causing long-hard starts, and ive never seen one cause a no start, but who knows.
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  #8  
Old 11-29-2008, 11:15 AM
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Well it was looked at. It will not fill the oil filter housing..but it does "start" very breifly. The front cover and LPOP are going by-bye. I have the new front cover for a late 04 truck and the new water pumpos since my truck is an 03. From the inital work.. it seems that the LPOP sharted itself... or a iinjector cup let go. The final problem wont be determined until the front cover comes off and the gears are out to see if there any marking on them. IF thats the case then its drop the pan, valve covers and start ripping oil crap apart to find out there the parts went.. and then new injector(s)... depending on what way I want to go.
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Old 12-04-2008, 06:57 PM
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Ok lots of work has been done, the trucks valve ocvers are off, the front cover is off and the injector cups are all in tact.

The pan was droped and we found the remainder of what appears to be a washer of sorts. Its machined, and looks as if it was explosed to high heat and speed(OD is blueish colored and appears to have a OD of 1"). Its only half of it.. but all of the oil passage ways checked out and there isnt any blockage anywhere. Upper oil pan is gone too, just to see if a crank spacer was out of it but my crank(from the dial gauge) is still within factory spec. The only thing we can think of is the HPOP.. but no one can recall(not even the Ford FSE we called) if the 03 pump bolts on to the gear. Tommarow were looking at a new off the shelf pump form ford, so an answer will be formed then. However.. if there is no bolt and washer there.. then we have no idea where it came from.
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Old 12-05-2008, 05:46 PM
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Any update? I have no idea where that washer is from.
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