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post #1 of 8 Old 03-07-2014, 08:15 PM Thread Starter
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Charging Issue

Having an issue with battery, alternator or something. Few weeks ago my battery light started coming on periodically, it would flash on and off but my voltage on my scan gauge was holding at 13.5-14 volts. Took all my connections loose and cleaned them, there was a very small amount of corrosion on the battery post. This seem to help some but my battery light would still flash on and off, usually on and right back off. This problem escalated last week when on my way home my voltage starts declining fairly rapidly, down to 11 then 10 then 9, then I go into limp mode on the highway, radio, all lights, gauges, everything go off, I limp it as far as I can and made it about 10 more miles and the volts drop to below 7 and truck goes dead about 5 miles from my house. Get it home, next day I take both batteries out and the alternator. I take them all and have them tested, they all test good. Get everything back in and cranks right up with the batteries being fully charged. everything is good for about a week until today when same exact thing happens on my way home today. Volts were low when I started my truck and got on my way home, about 11.5-12. Headed on home and same thing, volts started dropping until it finally gave out at the same exact place as it did last week. What all do I need to check? I don't even know where to start. If batteries and alternator are testing good. Alternator is barely 2 years old and batteries are only about 1 year old. Any help is appreciated.

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Jackson, MS. 2006 Ford F-350 SRW King Ranch FX4 Crew Cab, All Stock, 160,000 miles


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post #2 of 8 Old 03-08-2014, 04:59 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06kngrnch84 View Post
Having an issue with battery, alternator or something. Few weeks ago my battery light started coming on periodically, it would flash on and off but my voltage on my scan gauge was holding at 13.5-14 volts. Took all my connections loose and cleaned them, there was a very small amount of corrosion on the battery post. This seem to help some but my battery light would still flash on and off, usually on and right back off. This problem escalated last week when on my way home my voltage starts declining fairly rapidly, down to 11 then 10 then 9, then I go into limp mode on the highway, radio, all lights, gauges, everything go off, I limp it as far as I can and made it about 10 more miles and the volts drop to below 7 and truck goes dead about 5 miles from my house. Get it home, next day I take both batteries out and the alternator. I take them all and have them tested, they all test good. Get everything back in and cranks right up with the batteries being fully charged. everything is good for about a week until today when same exact thing happens on my way home today. Volts were low when I started my truck and got on my way home, about 11.5-12. Headed on home and same thing, volts started dropping until it finally gave out at the same exact place as it did last week. What all do I need to check? I don't even know where to start. If batteries and alternator are testing good. Alternator is barely 2 years old and batteries are only about 1 year old. Any help is appreciated.

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Have you checked your ground connections? The connections to the batteries is only part of the equation. The main battery grounds attach to the frame below each battery. Also check the engine to cab ground and the cab to frame ground. You can also add a ground wire from one of the alternator hold down bolts to the passenger side battery and see if that helps. Using a set up jumper cables to temporarily provide new grounding points can also help to diagnose grounding issues. Just don't connect to positive side any where.

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post #3 of 8 Old 03-08-2014, 07:11 AM Thread Starter
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I checked the grounds to the body right by the batteries but I have not checked all the other ones. I will check all of those today. I'll post my findings. Thanks

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Jackson, MS. 2006 Ford F-350 SRW King Ranch FX4 Crew Cab, All Stock, 160,000 miles


EGR Delete
Updated HPOP Fitting
Updated Standpipes and Dummy Plugs
ELC Coolant
Coolant Filter
Scan Gauge II
New Oil Cooler
Blue Spring Kit
'04 Metal Cold Side CAC Tube
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post #4 of 8 Old 03-08-2014, 07:21 AM
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Those tests at the parts stores are B.S.!

I'm assuming that since your alternator was replaced, it was from one of those part stores...?

If it is, then that's your problem.

Not really the alternator, but the voltage regulator in the alternator.

There are only 3 parts to the charging system, and 2 of them are in the same part.

Replace your alternator with a Motorcraft or DC Alternator.

You'll also have to slow charge you batteries one at a time to get the charge back.

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post #5 of 8 Old 03-08-2014, 12:37 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by skanj0 View Post
Have you checked your ground connections? The connections to the batteries is only part of the equation. The main battery grounds attach to the frame below each battery. Also check the engine to cab ground and the cab to frame ground. You can also add a ground wire from one of the alternator hold down bolts to the passenger side battery and see if that helps. Using a set up jumper cables to temporarily provide new grounding points can also help to diagnose grounding issues. Just don't connect to positive side any where.
So if I add a ground wire from the alternator bolt to the negative battery cable and it stays charged then my I have a bad ground somewhere else?

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Jackson, MS. 2006 Ford F-350 SRW King Ranch FX4 Crew Cab, All Stock, 160,000 miles


EGR Delete
Updated HPOP Fitting
Updated Standpipes and Dummy Plugs
ELC Coolant
Coolant Filter
Scan Gauge II
New Oil Cooler
Blue Spring Kit
'04 Metal Cold Side CAC Tube
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post #6 of 8 Old 03-08-2014, 12:39 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dfuzz78 View Post
Those tests at the parts stores are B.S.!

I'm assuming that since your alternator was replaced, it was from one of those part stores...?

If it is, then that's your problem.

Not really the alternator, but the voltage regulator in the alternator.

There are only 3 parts to the charging system, and 2 of them are in the same part.

Replace your alternator with a Motorcraft or DC Alternator.

You'll also have to slow charge you batteries one at a time to get the charge back.
Yes it is from Autozone. I knew it wasn't my best choice but what I had to do at the time. I am planning on trading before too long and upgrading to a newer truck so I really don't want to put a lot of money into putting new parts on it. Just want it to last me a couple more months at the most

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Jackson, MS. 2006 Ford F-350 SRW King Ranch FX4 Crew Cab, All Stock, 160,000 miles


EGR Delete
Updated HPOP Fitting
Updated Standpipes and Dummy Plugs
ELC Coolant
Coolant Filter
Scan Gauge II
New Oil Cooler
Blue Spring Kit
'04 Metal Cold Side CAC Tube
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post #7 of 8 Old 03-08-2014, 01:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 06kngrnch84 View Post
Yes it is from Autozone. I knew it wasn't my best choice but what I had to do at the time. I am planning on trading before too long and upgrading to a newer truck so I really don't want to put a lot of money into putting new parts on it. Just want it to last me a couple more months at the most

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Ok, so you come on here asking for help and wondering what the problem is, but all you really want is a band-aid solution before you make it someone else's problem... Got it. Good Luck.

Denis "Lt. Sled"
2006 F-350 Crew Cab Long Bed Dark Shadow Gray

462hp / 927ft-lbs Corrected
ARP Head Studs, NUC Motorsports Oil Bypass, CFM+ Intake Elbow, Wicked Wheel 2
Bullet Proof Diesel FICM w/Atlas 40, SCT SF3 w/SPD by TSD! Grover Fire Truck Horns
Cab Light Mod, Blue Spring Mod, Zoodad Mod, High Idle Mod, Lost EGR Mod
LED Light Upgrades from Retro-Solutions 08-10 Side Mirrors from 1A Auto

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post #8 of 8 Old 03-08-2014, 02:12 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by dfuzz78 View Post
Ok, so you come on here asking for help and wondering what the problem is, but all you really want is a band-aid solution before you make it someone else's problem... Got it. Good Luck.
No where near what I said. I've had this truck for about 6 years now and I've put a lot of blood sweat and tears into it. Before this even started I was lookin at trading in for something newer. Forgive me for not wanting to put more money into the truck I've already dumped so much in to, right before I plan on trading it. If I don't fix it before I trade it i'll be up front and let them know.whats wrong with, not like they wouldn't know since the battery light stays on all the time. But thanks for no help dfuzz78, don't talk to me like u know me. U don't!!

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Jackson, MS. 2006 Ford F-350 SRW King Ranch FX4 Crew Cab, All Stock, 160,000 miles


EGR Delete
Updated HPOP Fitting
Updated Standpipes and Dummy Plugs
ELC Coolant
Coolant Filter
Scan Gauge II
New Oil Cooler
Blue Spring Kit
'04 Metal Cold Side CAC Tube
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