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  #1  
Old 02-12-2014, 06:19 PM
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Yes another cold crank no start post.

Cold cranks no start sometimes spits and sputters but no start. I filled out Bismic's checklist and have called SCT on my tuner found out my stock tune wasn't actually a stock tune it was tuned before (lied to by stealership no surprise there) I have added Diesel 911 and drained both fuel filters smells like diesel and 911 to me.

1. Pull diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) if you can (you can have codes without a Check Engine Light).

No Codes

2. Automatic transmission shift lever fully in PARK or NEUTRAL? Try restarting while slightly moving the gearshift lever.

Yes

4. Battery connections (all including grounds) - all good? Alternator cable connections good?

Yes

5. Starter relay connections - all good?

Yes

6. Glow plug connectors making good connection?

Yes

7. Is the starter engaging? Verify starter and ignition switch are working properly.

Yes it cranks.

8. Load test BOTH batteries individually and check the charging system (alternator). PCM needs to see 500 rpm minimum to start IIRC.

Check out good also on a battery charger

9. Fusible links and fuses OK? The FICM relay is labled IDM Relay #304. Check it specifically.

All fuses/relays/connections good

11. Push the reset on the emergency fuel cut-off switch.

Done

12. Any oil pressure registering on the dash pressure gauge (low pressure system)? If not, it could be a bad oil pump (LPOP), a oil filter drain valve stuck open, or a bad oil pressure regulator. You should register oil pressure on the dash gauge in a long crank/ no start condition when the complete oil system is known to be sealed.

No oil pressure gauge

13. Check PCM and FICM connections - any wire chaffing? Any Injector harness chaffing? Any ICP or IPR harness chaffing? More detail below.

Slight chaffing but not down to wire.

14. Verify that the oil level is correct and the proper oil and filter have been installed. Oil foaming and loss of viscosity (too thick or fuel diluted) can be an issue. Check oil level for fuel dilution, inspect oil condition, maybe even change oil and filter. Definitely make sure you filled w/ the proper oil.

Rotella T6 Synthetic 5w-40 correct level

15. Verify that the air filter is not plugged - Check the filter minder and you may even want to pull the air filter and inspect.

Good

16. Inspect the ICP sensor and harness. Is it oil soaked? Disconnect the ICP and try again. The PCM will establish a default control scheme that would allow the truck to start if the problem were the ICP sensor. Afterwards, make sure the harness is re-installed securely. Also, check ICP circuit fuse.

Looks good and did disconnect no start still

17. Change both fuel filters, inspect appearance of the fuel when draining the water separator (you could just have bad fuel).
Make sure that the air is purged on start-up. By following the proper (KOEO) cycling procedure before cranking."

Need to change fuel filters (in the mail now) but fuel checks out good. Issue with fuel reaching top filter no blockage in lines.

18. If you can, verify the fuel pressure (test port is at the base of the secondary fuel filter). Must be over 45 psig.

No gauge

20. Pull the oil filter top and have someone crank it while you watch to see if any oil is flowing into the filter housing. If not then it is a LPO problem. Take a long extension and hold down the check valve (round black thing held up by a spring). Have someone crank the engine. The housing should fill within about 10 seconds of cranking.

It fills up

21. If possible, verify high pressure oil pressure (ICP sensor) - must be over 500 psig to fire the injectors. See link below.

1466.33 pressure right away

22. Pull the EGR valve and inspect. Clean if dirty. Check the strength of the spring. Consider replacing it - just because. Also clean the MAP sensor hose and the EBP tube. These may cause surging and hard start, but a long shot for a no-start.

cleaned and good spring (new)

23. Troubleshoot the glow plug system (you need a clamp on inductive ammeter). Test each glow plug module wire bundle separately, then test each glow plug. Look for any amperages lower on one side or lower to an individual glow plug. From each module you should see 200 A at first dropping quickly to 35-37 A if the GPCM is OK. Both modules should read apprx. the same. Each glow plug will draw 8-10 A. Or you could check the resistance in each glow plug - should be less than 1 ohm.

they all heat up

24. Carry out the KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test (Click Test) and the bubble test.

Unknown how to perform I believe.

25. Check the Crank (CKP) and Cam (CMP) sensor wiring harnesses.

Good

26. Check the FICM voltage - see post #2 of this thread (below).

48.8V

IPW is between 3-4, I have a diagnostic reading as well if you would like it emailed. Any suggestions would be awesome.
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  #2  
Old 02-13-2014, 02:08 PM
Tired Marine.



 

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Old 02-15-2014, 11:20 AM
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when you turn the key on what do the injectors sound like, a strong or weak ticking type noise? does it start if it has been plugged in? I had a customers truck act similar and ended up that the injectors were getting weak, no codes and even passed the buzz test, put all 8 in and it starts like a champ.
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Old 02-15-2014, 01:15 PM
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Did the buzz test and they strong I put a cleaner through it not to long ago so they are good,and no I had it plugged in. I believe my fuel pump went on my HFCM, which by the way you can get just the pump from the manufacturer. So when that gets here we will see if that was it.
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Old 05-09-2014, 07:54 PM
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Was it?
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  #6  
Old 05-09-2014, 08:02 PM
Tired Marine.



 

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The fuel pump?
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