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Old 01-23-2014, 01:18 PM
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Another no start after hg/stud job

Well, I'm at a dead end on this truck. It had two newish motorcraft batteries, so I started my 7.3 F250, removed it's newish Super Start batteries, and put in the motorcraft batteries to charge with the truck idling. The motorcraft batteries were weak when I removed them from the 6.0 during the stud job.

I then put the two Super Start batteries from my 7.3 into the 6.0, and it sounded normal trying to crank, speed seemed normal and cadence sounded right. It actually seemed like it wanted to fire. Once I drained those batteries, I swapped the motorcraft batteries back in, and put the Super Start batteries back in the 7.3. The 6.0 would just slow crank. I hooked up jumper cables from the 7.3 to the 6.0, still just slow cranks. I let it sit for about 20 minutes with the 7.3 idling, and still just slow cranks. I turned the 7.3 off and started it to verify the Super Start batteries had enough juice to fire it, they did just fine. So I put them back in the 6.0, and it would still only slow crank.

Just for kicks, I put the Motorcraft batteries in the 7.3 (the 6.0 was slow cranking on them) and the 7.3 fired right up. Granted, it was at 190* operating temp from idling so long.

I hooked up my el cheapo Harbor Freight $20 battery charger just to see what the meter would read, and it showed both batteries in the 6.0 at 40% charge. It would jump up to 100% charge if I connected the jumper cables to the idling 7.3, but still only slow crank.

I'm not sure if something is internally wrong with the 6.0, or did I forget a ground wire.. or possibly kill the starter?
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Old 01-23-2014, 01:48 PM
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Its possible that you killed the starter trying to prime the ICP system after having the cylinder heads off. Have the batteries load tested individually. With 100 percent charge, the batteries should hold a load of half of their CCA for at least 15 seconds. If the batteries are charged properly and pass a load test, the engine should crank over at more than 120 RPM. I will usually unplug GPCM and use a little starting fluid to get them to fire over after major repair. Its much easier on the starter. Ive also left the glow plugs out and cranked them over till I see engine oil pressure on the gauge in order to prime the ICP system.
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Old 01-24-2014, 11:42 PM
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Well I think the starter is gone, she slow cranks the same regardless of the power being supplied. I pulled the #8 gp because I saw some moisture around the exhaust manifold gasket in that area, but the gp itself is dry. So I doubt it's hydrolocked. I also removed the belt and tried it, but it cranked slowly even then.

Honestly, maybe now just isn't the time to get her to start. It's 30 degrees outside and this truck was a hard start even at 50 degrees. Before I took it apart for the stud job, it had quit starting just a few days prior. I wrote it off as weak batteries due to sitting for two weeks, but I'm thinking it's the starter. It did spin over a bit faster when I jammed a pole against the starter and whacked it several times with a hammer, but not fast enough to start.
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Old 01-26-2014, 10:40 AM
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Does the starter smell cooked? Any codes pop up? You remove all the glow plugs and crank?
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Old 01-27-2014, 09:28 AM
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Update: She's up and running great. Starter was toast, picked up a reman from Advance auto and she fired up after a few cranks
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