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  #1  
Old 01-20-2014, 05:33 PM
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Parasitic Battery Drain

I know there's a lot of issues with this, but I've been poking around on the Org and can't find the answer I'm looking for, so I was hoping you guys can help me out.

I have an 06 F250 Lariat

Last Friday morning came out and batteries were not completely dead but too much so to get me cranked.

After poking around this is what I got:

480 milliamp draw when everything is off (dome light/hood light etc.)
Pull fuse 19 (Body Security Module) and get it to drop to 290 milliamps
Pull fuse 2 (Cluster) and get it down to 20 milliamps where I'm happy...

Both batteries are new and good
Alternator is not causing the draw

Anybody have any ideas of what to do next?

I've heard that the battery save relay may have gone out and the only way to replace it is to replace the entire instrument cluster...but this also doesn't explain the BSM pulling 100 milliamps...

I got this far and am lost....please help!
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Old 01-21-2014, 11:22 AM
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Are your batteries extremely dirt on the top between the two posts, put your meter on volts put negative to battery negative and take the positive lead and rub it on the top of the battery between posts and see if you have voltage. If you do have volts then remove batteries and clean with baking soda and water.
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Old 01-21-2014, 02:26 PM
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sounds like feed back through a ground could try cleaning probably a pain in the a$$ to do though
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Old 01-21-2014, 07:44 PM
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Thanks for the info!

So, should I start by just cleaning the batteries real good? I don't know jack about electrical but have an multimeter and am willing to give it a shot...how and where would you start looking and testing for feedback on a ground?
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Old 01-22-2014, 03:29 AM
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U can unhook both grounds then touch one on bat post see if it archs if it does you have a short.
Try cleaning grounds on fender wells and firewall. Sometimes corosion can cause problems like that
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Old 01-22-2014, 06:49 PM
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Something similar happened to my 04; the batteries were draining really fast. Turned out to be a bad GPCM. Unplugged the GPCM, charged the batteries fully, and, then took the charger off in the afternoon. In the morning, checked to see if it turned over fast after several hours overnight. It did.

A little over $100 for the GPCM.... BUT... Dale said that not knowing if the GPs were left on continuously because of that, that the GPs needed to be changed. Reason being that they molecularly change states (mechanics call it a glass state) and become brittle, and can break off into the cylinder. Good luck with it, let us know what you find.
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Old 01-23-2014, 05:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stingray615 View Post
Something similar happened to my 04; the batteries were draining really fast. Turned out to be a bad GPCM. Unplugged the GPCM, charged the batteries fully, and, then took the charger off in the afternoon. In the morning, checked to see if it turned over fast after several hours overnight. It did.

A little over $100 for the GPCM.... BUT... Dale said that not knowing if the GPs were left on continuously because of that, that the GPs needed to be changed. Reason being that they molecularly change states (mechanics call it a glass state) and become brittle, and can break off into the cylinder. Good luck with it, let us know what you find.
Cool, thanks for the info! I gotta work today but will update y'all with what I find...
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:10 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by midnite rider View Post
U can unhook both grounds then touch one on bat post see if it archs if it does you have a short.
Try cleaning grounds on fender wells and firewall. Sometimes corosion can cause problems like that
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Where and how many ground locations there are? I'm having trouble tracing them.
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Old 01-23-2014, 08:23 AM
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With computer controlled systems, arcing anything to ground is a no no. Parasitic tests can only be done properly with an inductive meter, an ammeter placed inline will not allow the control modules to "sleep". That said, there has been issues with both Instrument cluster and the underdash Smart Junction Block that can cause the draw you speak of. To properly test for key off draw, you need to: Verify the condition of at least one battery using a carbon pile load tester. It should survive a test of at least 1/2 of its CCA rating and stay above 10volts during a 15 second test. Once you know for certain you have one good battery, disconnect and isolate the connectors on the other battery, as two batteries hooked up only complicates the test. The inductive clamp should be placed on the negative cable (be sure it goes around all of the wires connected to the battery post on that side) with the arrow toward the negative cable end. Once you close all the doors, it may take 30 minutes for all of the modules to sleep. If your draw is less than 250 milliamps, you are good, and your issue could still be with batteries, as new does not always equal good from a load test perspective. If your draw is only satisfactory with the cluster fuse disconnected, that would be your culprit. Changed two last year for similar draw issues.
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Old 01-23-2014, 09:20 AM
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Ok, so I unplugged the GPCM and still getting a half amp draw...
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