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post #1 of 12 Old 08-04-2008, 05:32 PM Thread Starter
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Slow coolant loss?

I Just did my first oil change on the truck since i purchased it, two weeks ago. I've been keeping an eye on all the fluids, espeacialy the coolant weekly. I tow with the truck 90% of the time.

Well this weekend I finaly recieved my egr valve delete spool and went to install it. Looked at the coolant bottle and it was about 2"s below the min line. When I pulled the egr valve I did not see any signs of coolant. The last two months its been trouble free. It has never puffed a bit of smoke, on start up or with the foot to the floor. Is this sign of the cooler leaking or a head gasket going? What should I check for?

Also after I pulled the egr valve it was caked prety good. Installed the spool. And did feel a bit of a power gain. Minimal but there. Also With the valve unpluged I have had no check engine light pop up.

I planed to do a full cooler delete this winter when The truck will be sitting most of the time. What do I need to do?
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post #2 of 12 Old 08-04-2008, 05:38 PM
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if no external leaks or no signs of puking from the reservoir , it possible to be in the first stages of egr cooler failure

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post #3 of 12 Old 08-04-2008, 05:55 PM
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EGR delete? You can buy kits that are 600 bucks for some reason even though it's 10 bucks of sheet metal. What you have to do is close the exahust flow and bypass the coolant. You can hack up the up pipe and weld it shut or cut the cooler up and weld that shut instead. Then you need to weld a tube in the intake manifold that makes a 90. It's alluminum so take note. Then put some heater hose from that fitting to the oil cooler fitting. Preformed heater hose that does a 180 turn is the best, regular hose will likely collapse as its a tight turn for 3/4 hose.

Leak test your weld before installing it. Talking from experience. Cooling system won't go past 14psi fyi to determine weld strength.


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post #4 of 12 Old 08-04-2008, 06:13 PM
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you should of maybe took a oil sample and had it examined to make sure you didnt have a leak in your oil. you didnt see any i hope when you changed oil did you? that would be a sign of a head gasket!

-Josh

2008 2500 LMM- Deleted, Blocked, Fueled, & Tuned by:
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post #5 of 12 Old 08-04-2008, 06:25 PM Thread Starter
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I didn't see anything unusual. No milkyness, no metalic particles on the oil plug. I'll check everthing over better this weekend.
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post #6 of 12 Old 08-04-2008, 06:27 PM
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Cooler

Sounds like the cooler like the Scuffster said. What you described are classic early signs of an egr cooler going. You appear to not have any signs of head gasket failure.
post #7 of 12 Old 08-11-2008, 12:50 PM Thread Starter
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Update: After my truck sat for a five days as I drove my car to work. I checked the coolant level before firing it up. It was still about an 1"-1.5" low. I pulled the cap off the bottle. Heard some gergeling and after a few minutes. The coolant refilled the overflow bottle to the correct possition about a 1/4" below the min line. Put the cap back on and hooked up to the first of multiple trailers I towed around this weekend. Yesterday after my last run with my enclosed to pick up a canopy. I opened the hood and the coolant level was right at the 1/4" below min. I have no Idea if I have a problem or not but I'll keep a close eye on it.
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post #8 of 12 Old 08-11-2008, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AvroAero View Post
EGR delete? You can buy kits that are 600 bucks for some reason even though it's 10 bucks of sheet metal. What you have to do is close the exahust flow and bypass the coolant. You can hack up the up pipe and weld it shut or cut the cooler up and weld that shut instead. Then you need to weld a tube in the intake manifold that makes a 90. It's alluminum so take note. Then put some heater hose from that fitting to the oil cooler fitting. Preformed heater hose that does a 180 turn is the best, regular hose will likely collapse as its a tight turn for 3/4 hose.

Leak test your weld before installing it. Talking from experience. Cooling system won't go past 14psi fyi to determine weld strength.
you are talking about an up pipe.. up pipes don't cost 600 bucks do your homework prior to your bogus claim.

full EGR delete parts are expensive when you do it the right way.

preformed heater hose is a bad idea IMO.

Adam Brannan

First Coast Diesel Performance

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post #9 of 12 Old 08-11-2008, 02:12 PM
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I'm not talking about an up pipe. I'm talking about the cooler delete. One from the firstcoastdieselperformance you have is at least 530 plus core charge. So your saying you paid 530 or more for your EGR delete and EGR delete kits aren't 600 bucks? FYI the egr delete you have uses heater hose (according to your sig).

6.0L EGR Cooler Delete
Liberator EGR Cooler Delete

How much would you price this stainless/aluminum at? Because that and an up pipe costs 700 bucks.




Do your homework.


2004 Ford Excursion 6.0
-SCT livewire w/ innovative extreme tunes
-Banks monster exhaust
-Zoodad
-05 conversion w/ harley headlamps & HIDs
-Viper 5900 remotestart/alarm
-ARP studs
-EGR delete
-Defender roof rack with 600W of light
-whelen hideaway strobes
-Sound off Predator dual red-red
-Whelen 500 4 amber 2 blue
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post #10 of 12 Old 08-11-2008, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Abrannan19 View Post
you are talking about an up pipe.. up pipes don't cost 600 bucks do your homework prior to your bogus claim.

full EGR delete parts are expensive when you do it the right way.

preformed heater hose is a bad idea IMO.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AvroAero View Post
I'm not talking about an up pipe. I'm talking about the cooler delete. One from the firstcoastdieselperformance you have is at least 530 plus core charge. So your saying you paid 530 or more for your EGR delete and EGR delete kits aren't 600 bucks? FYI the egr delete you have uses heater hose (according to your sig).


6.0L EGR Cooler Delete
Liberator EGR Cooler Delete

How much would you price this stainless/aluminum at? Because that and an up pipe costs 700 bucks.




Do your homework.
PREFORMED..is what I said..re-read.

Also show me 'sheetmetal' other the then the egr valve block off that we used on my intakes.. you would be talking about an up pipe..and that's not what we use for our up pipes..

I can assure you 100% that there is more then 10 bucks of work in deleting and EGR cooler properly. The aluminum parts are expensive the welding isnt cheap and the pressure testing isnt cheap..try to find someone that is competent on welding aluminum and is cheap..the 2 dont go together. One wrong move (bad welder) makes and intake manifold a paper weight.

I own First Coast Diesel Performance..the intakes that are on Eric website (innovative) are my intakes..

the liberator kit is not even comparable to mine..

you picture above is lib kit..and yea..those parts are cheap..because there is no welding involved..I have no idea why his prices are so high..mine are justified with the parts you get.

Adam Brannan

First Coast Diesel Performance


Last edited by Abrannan19; 08-11-2008 at 02:43 PM.
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