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  #1  
Old 10-25-2013, 03:04 PM
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Extended crank, then no start. PUZZELED

Hey y'all

So my 04 was running fine until a couple of weeks ago. The temperature in my area started getting colder, maybe 45 degrees at night. I started to notice there would be a small period of extended cranking and a small amount of white smoke, most likely unburnt fuel, when the truck sat for a day or two. It didn't bother me and the truck ran fine. Then aroun last week the weather started to get colder, high 30s at night. The samestarting problem just a little longer crank time. Yesterday it was 29 and the truck sat for maybe 8 hours and it would not start what so ever. It would crank but not turn over, I tried about 8 times and clouds of white smoke poured out the whole time I would try to start it. So I proceeded to plug it in, of course 15 minutes later it started fine with some unburnt fuel(white smoke) coming out of the exhaust until it warmed up.

The glow plugs have been changed about 1000 miles ago so I have not checked them yet. The GPCM must be fine as I have no CEL. I also checked the FICM and had 48 volts with the key on and 48 volts with the engine running. It does not sound rough at idle and the injectors seem to be firing like they should.

So I have no idea what it could be. I am completely PUZZELED! Any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!
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Old 10-26-2013, 12:43 PM
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Anyone?????
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Old 10-27-2013, 03:31 PM
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Can someone please help me out here? Does this sound like the beginning stages of injector stiction?
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Old 10-27-2013, 04:08 PM
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You didn't do the most important FICM voltage test.. Cranking the engine over. This is where you will see the voltage drop. Make sure the engine is COLD.
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Old 10-27-2013, 04:33 PM
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This likely is not your issue but if your HPOP isn't getting the pressure it could cause a long crank as well. (IIRC)

God knows where...
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Old 10-27-2013, 08:43 PM
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You need to check the FICM voltage when cranking over a COLD engine because that is when the voltage will drop the most. "Key on - engine off", and "engine running" tests are not placing a load on the FICM like cold-cranking will.

The biggest problem with the FICM is because of the crappy solder the manufacturer had to use when assembling the boards, and the fact that the FICM lives in an environment where it is subjected to heat cycles and vibrations.
Over time, all of the above causes the solder to lose its bond with the circuitboard when the board is cold.
As the OP has noticed...When the board heats up, it expands and restores the contact/bond..making it run/start a bit better.
That is the reason that, if you have the block heater, and plug the truck in, the truck may start. The block heater might be generating enough heat to expand the board to the point where the solder can get a good enough contact to the board to start the engine.
This is by no means a "fix" but can work "short term" until the FICM fries itself completely and you get a ton of codes.

Should the cold-crank testing reveal that the FICM is the source of the problem, I suggest sending it off to Ed at FICMrepair.com.
Great guy, fast service, good pricing, warrantied..and he can load a FICM tune on it at the same time. What more could you ask for?
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:23 AM
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The ficm is fine. I had someone crank it while I checked voltage. It never moved out of 48 volts during cranking or running. Like you I was sure that's what it was but luckily it seems to be working like it should

Last edited by TShields; 10-28-2013 at 12:48 AM.
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Old 10-28-2013, 12:24 AM
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And it was cold when I did the test
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Old 10-28-2013, 05:22 AM
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But jut to be sure I'll try it again today. I'm also due for an oil change. I will be putting 5w 40 t6 and 16 oz of archoil ar9100
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Old 10-28-2013, 06:21 AM
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Since it seems you have fuel and it has a hard time starting cold (actually cool since it isn't really cold yet), and no codes, it is likely a glow-plug issue. It could be stiction, but you didn't indicate any rough running at start and it would be on most of the injectors. As suggested, the FICM could cause fuel to be available, but at the wrong time. The only other thing that would cause a no-start with fuel available is compression.

One other thing to consider is fuel leaking into the cylinders. If you had low HPO pressure, the leaking fuel would mask the lack of HPO pressure. Check this first.

I haven't answered your question, but these are the areas to check based on your problem in the order listed.

Last edited by twoicebergs; 10-28-2013 at 06:25 AM. Reason: edit low HPO
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