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Old 10-16-2013, 10:06 AM

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Trouble Shooting Fog Lamps

Okay, so I have been in the process of trying to run down my issues with my fog lamps and thought I would share my experiences as I have found the amount of information available to be of little use for me in my situation.

I can take some pictures but it will be a while as I will be out of town for the next three weeks.

Place the ignition in the (RUN POSITION), Turn lights on and Pull the switch for FOG LIGHTS

1. a. Check for power into main light switch

You will know if there is no power on your switch as none of your lights will work.

b. Using a test light take one of the fog lights out of the receptacle and test for power at the socket.

If the bulbs are bad replace, if there is no power at the receptacle continue reading

2. You may have a bad ground use the following tutorial to fix the ground issue. This virtually eliminates any possibility of it being a bad ground. this is also what is known as the "FOG LIGHT MOD".

S&S Diversified

There is also a ground underneath the driver side windshield above the brake fluid resevior which needs to be checked, it is G100 in the ground wiring diagram.

3. ensure the fog indicator is illuminated on the switch, with the switch removed from the dash you can check with a test light that there is power traveling out of the switch through the (YELLOW WIRE).

If there is no power on the YELLOW wire but the other lights still work you have a bad switch, replace switch to fix the issue

4. This wire travels into the CJB, into Connector 270a wire port 17 (Wire is still SOLID YELLOW), once it enters the CJB the voltage travels along the Positive terminal where it encounters the fuse before entering a (NON-SERVICABLE) fog lamp relay.

5. To trouble shoot the relay first check for voltage on fuse 43 (replace 10a fuse if necessary) , once power has passed through fuse 43 it then travels though the fog lamp relay, you can check for power exiting the relay by testing the TAN WIRE W/ ORANGE STRIPE, it is located on Connector 270h wire port 2.

If you have power on both sides of the fuse but not on the TAN WIRE W/ ORANGE STRIPE then the relay is bad and you will have to replace the CJB or bypass the CJB via a jumper from the YELLOW wire entering the CJB to the TAN WIRE W/ ORANGE STRIPE which carrys current out of the CJB to the fog lights, make sure your jumper has a 10a fuse link as you are bypassing the fuse box with this mod.

6. Once the current leaves the CJB it travels along the main wiring harness through the grommet in the firewall and into the engine bay. The harness splits into several directions however the fog light wires travel underneath the air cleaner assembly (there is a connector inside the frame, under the air cleaner assembly which is usually pretty nasty), through the radiator support down to the fog light sockets.

7. At this point I gave up and ran a wire from my switch which is working along the main harness and spliced it into the fog circuit in front of the radiator support. If you want it to be factory spec you will need to open up the wiring harness at various places fish out the TAN WIRE W/ ORANGE STRIPE and check for voltage.

I personally dont care about having everything in factory spec or I wouldnt have had the EGR DELETE, 4" TURBO BACK EXHAUST, BYPASS COOLANT FILTER, SCT TUNER, MONITORING SYSTEM, etc. installed but I know some folks like it to be as original as can be. This is what I have discovered by working with this issue and this is how I resolved my problem, others may have different experiences but 99% of fog light issues can be resolved by following these steps.
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