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Old 10-08-2013, 12:31 PM
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No Start after EGR and Oil Cooler

So I'm new to the forum and have scoured everywhere to find out what could be causing my "no start" issue but have gotten nowhere. I'll start off by saying I have a 2006 F-350 with about 65,000 miles. About a week ago I got the infamous "white smoke" so I came to the forums and decided to replace my EGR cooler and Oil Cooler. All went well and it was my EGR cooler that had failed as I filled the coolant ports with water and it was coming out of the exhaust chamber. Now to my new problem.
After reassembling everything, adding oil, and cycling the key 3 or 4 times for fuel, I turned the key once and it ran for all of 3 seconds and died. Cycled the key a couple more times, turned it over and it ran for a second, since then I have gotten nothing, not even any CEL Codes except for when I tried disconnecting the ICP Sensor to see if it would start. I also purchased an Insight CTS, so here's what I have:
FCIM: 47.5-48.5
ICP Volts: 0.2
ICP: 0
RPM: 140-180ish
Batteries have been fully charged, still nothing.

A few other side notes, when I took out the HPOP filter under the oil cooler, it was missing a screen, I do not know if I pushed the screen through or if it has been off for a while, but either way, I couldn't locate it. It was replaced with the new version.
I only put 15 quarts of oil in before my initial attempt to start, after some more reading I added about 2.5 more to get it to the center of dipstick.
It was running great before the EGR and Oil Cooler Replacement.

I am going to be removing the IPR valve this evening and see if it is clogged or if that piece of screen damaged it. I will post pictures regardless this evening.

In the meantime, I guess I'm just wondering what other ideas someone might have? I've read a few things about if you crank with the oil level low it could put air into the HPO system and that it could take 4-5 battery charges of attempted starts to get it out. Is there any truth to that statement?

I just find it strange that my ICP Volts/Pressure don't budge and I can't find anything that would cause this except for an IPR Failure or HPO system issue.

Thanks in advance for any help.
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Old 10-08-2013, 12:58 PM
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sounds like the IPR or ICP
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Old 10-08-2013, 03:06 PM
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So an update from my attempts this evening. I pulled the IPR, screens were intact and not much debris on them, I installed a new IPR just because. Got everything put back together, cranked it, still not starting. Decided to pull the ICP sensor just to see what would happen when I cranked it with it removed and hardly any oil came out? Shouldn't the oil spray out if my HPOP and IPR are working correctly?
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Old 10-12-2013, 07:57 PM
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Do you have a motorcraft filter with an oem cap to match? I poured a gallon or so of oil through the filter housing to try and fill the oil cooler and reservoir, poured oil in the top of the injectors. and added as much as I could to the oil rails before pushing them down on the injectors. Mine started right up after an oil cooler replacement.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
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Old 10-12-2013, 08:10 PM
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Yes I always use the motorcraft filters and oem housings. Only thing in my truck now that is not motorcraft or oem is the coolant and oil. I switched to prestone heavy duty elc and rotella t6 5w-40. Also, when adding the oil, I added almost an entire gallon through the housing.

Anyway, my problem is now resolved. Apparently I was not cranking nearly long enough to allow the high pressure system time to purge the air. I ended up charging the batteries and timing my cranks. I did one for right at 30
seconds, then got a bunch of random lights on instrument panel so I stopped for a few minutes. Then cranked for almost 25 seconds and it fired right up. So for future reference if anyone does an oil cooler change, make sure you are actually cranking for AT LEAST 30 second intervals or it will never have a chance to start.

Last edited by streetracer220; 10-12-2013 at 08:39 PM.
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Old 10-12-2013, 08:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by streetracer220 View Post
Yes I always use the motorcraft filters and oem housings. Only thing in my truck now that is not motorcraft or oem is the coolant and oil. I switched to prestone heavy duty elc and rotella t6 5w-40. Also, when adding the oil, I added almost an entire gallon through the housing.

Anyway, my problem is now resolved. Apparently I was not cranking nearly long enough to allow the high pressure system time to purge the air. I ended up charging the batteries and timing my cranks. I did one for right at 3 seconds, then got a bunch of random lights on instrument panel so I stopped for a few minutes. Then cranked for almost 25 seconds and it fired right up. So for future reference if anyone does an oil cooler change, make sure you are actually cranking for AT LEAST 30 second intervals or it will never have a chance to start.
Correct. ....... glad you got it. :thumbup:

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.
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