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Old 08-15-2013, 09:02 AM
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EGR/Oil cooler problems

Hello again all-
I know this has been covered on other threads, so forgive me and point me in the right direction. I do have another question to pick your brains about though.

Finally got the Scanguage hooked up, and checked oil/water temps today. Water was at 190, oil at 220. Oil cooler plugged, EGR on the way, right? Any recommendations on who to go through for EGR delete and cooler? I've seen all the ad's, but what have you guys used and would you buy it again?

Second part of my question- would a super high oil temp cause the engine to go into a limp home mode and lose all power? Was towing travel trailer and all of a sudden power was gone and rpm's dropping off. No engine light or codes though.

Just wondering if my problem could cause that to happen or if I'm chasing two separate problems. Thanks in advance for the help, and if it's been covered already please point me in the right direction.

Jason
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:55 PM
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1. I have experience with just 1 type of egr cooler delete, and being that where im at has no emission checks to look for the cooler, id say its best type because it keeps heat away. Its a little hockey puck that goes into the up pipe, a tube to run coolant from oil cooler to intake man. And a plate to block off egr cooler inlet on intake. Ive seen no name generic kits for $75 on ebay, but I would recommend a trusted brand. There are others with a fake pipe to connect everything, and some people weld a cap on their existing egr cooler. IMHO those are bringing heat to the intake and whole underhood area. All will do the same two things: keep coolant flowing, and block exhaust gasses. The BPD cooler is great, but people notice faster spool up with a delete, plus theres less heat going to your coolant with a delete.

2. Never personnally had it happen, but ive heard of it, the newer ford strategies are designed to go into limp mode after the eot gets too high. On mine I would get a wrench light but no limp mode, so it is likely a different issue if you didnt get a light at all.

A 30 degree delta is really high. Any driving from now on youre playing russian roulette (honestly, you have been for a while). You need to delete the cooler asap.

3. If youre only hitting 190 ect your tstats stuck open, its like $25 for a new one. Keep the old one, you can pull the tsttat out of the neck housing and use just the housing for flushing (see num 4)

4. If youre still running ford gold coolant, do the flushing before you take it all apart, or youre going to flush the gunk into your new oil cooler. Switch to CAT EC-1 rated coolant. Theres several brands that carry this rating.

Nows the perfect time to do turbo feed and drain line update and depending on year the STC fitting. youll be right there for all of that. The STC fitting WILL leave you stranded and can cause severe damage sometimes.
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Old 08-17-2013, 08:55 PM
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1. I have experience with just 1 type of egr cooler delete, and being that where im at has no emission checks to look for the cooler, id say its best type because it keeps heat away. Its a little hockey puck that goes into the up pipe, a tube to run coolant from oil cooler to intake man. And a plate to block off egr cooler inlet on intake. Ive seen no name generic kits for $75 on ebay, but I would recommend a trusted brand. There are others with a fake pipe to connect everything, and some people weld a cap on their existing egr cooler. IMHO those are bringing heat to the intake and whole underhood area. All will do the same two things: keep coolant flowing, and block exhaust gasses. The BPD cooler is great, but people notice faster spool up with a delete, plus theres less heat going to your coolant with a delete.

2. Never personnally had it happen, but ive heard of it, the newer ford strategies are designed to go into limp mode after the eot gets too high. On mine I would get a wrench light but no limp mode, so it is likely a different issue if you didnt get a light at all.

A 30 degree delta is really high. Any driving from now on youre playing russian roulette (honestly, you have been for a while). You need to delete the cooler asap.

3. If youre only hitting 190 ect your tstats stuck open, its like $25 for a new one. Keep the old one, you can pull the tsttat out of the neck housing and use just the housing for flushing (see num 4)

4. If youre still running ford gold coolant, do the flushing before you take it all apart, or youre going to flush the gunk into your new oil cooler. Switch to CAT EC-1 rated coolant. Theres several brands that carry this rating.

Nows the perfect time to do turbo feed and drain line update and depending on year the STC fitting. youll be right there for all of that. The STC fitting WILL leave you stranded and can cause severe damage sometimes.
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Old 08-20-2013, 01:17 AM
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ajfrac- Thanks for the reply. I am new to the whole diesel thing, so I appreciate the help. I have been looking at the IPR EGR delete/oil cooler kits. Just so I understand this, I don't need the up pipe if I get the exhaust block off plate, correct? That's the hockey puck you're referring to? Thanks for the info!
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:57 AM
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Yes if you get the block off plate (hockey puck)you dont need the up pipe. You should shop around for a good price, but if the small rubber hose has regular coolant hose clamps, dont get it. The diameters are different for the barb coming out of the oil cooler and the pipe that goes to the intake. The decent ones will have an assembly wheer there is metal fittings with o-rings on the inside, with rubber hose permanently clamped to it (hard to explain, but it works great and is SUPER easy to install, no clamps or tightening, you just slide it on) The up pipe is a 2 pc assembly, that goes from the manifolds to the turbo. On the passenger side theres a spot for the egr cooler to get exhaust. There are about 3 options here

1. Probably cheapest(what PO installed on mine) a little disk is clamped in place of the egr cooler. Sealing the exhaust
2. Same as number 1 but with a fake look a like pipe attached to be able to pass visual emmissions testing (as in the tester will visually inspect a list of emissions components)
3. A 12 inch or so pipe replaces the part of the up pipe that branches off and is just a straight pipe

The powerstroke guy (he sells the number 3 option) says that number 1 can cause cracked bellows, but that doesnt make any sense to me. Any downside to number 1 is purely cosmetic ( you will be able to see the block off plate under the hood.

Ive seen the non name brand options of number 1 for $75, and number 3 for $225 I think.

1 &2 will be easier to install, because you dont have to remove up pipe which will require some wiggling with the heads on.
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