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post #1 of 10 Old 08-03-2013, 06:33 PM Thread Starter
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Confused

Hey guys my 07 6.0 is having some weak cranking problems. I has a bad ficm about 5 months ago. Got it repaired and everything was running great until a couple months later I started having weak cranking issues every so often. Feels like a weak battery. Mostly happens when the truck has sit a while. Well I had my batteries load tested and passenger side was on the weak side so I replaced it and I didn't replace the drivers side because it was fairly new. Few weeks later the issue came back so I dropped it off at a mechanic who works at a ford dealership and does work on the side, he specializes in the 6.0s. He checked it out and couldn't find anything. Checked the grounds and cleaned everything. Well it was fine for a couple months and now it has came back. Any ideas on what it could be.
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post #2 of 10 Old 08-03-2013, 09:06 PM
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I think the batteries should be replaced in pairs. I THINK?! Not positive. Also have you check your alternator? May not be putting out enough voltage and amps. That will kill batteries, then your FICM, and then injectors

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post #3 of 10 Old 08-03-2013, 09:15 PM
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check your terminal ends both positive and negative. You also might want to have your starter tested,just a thought. I had simular issue turned out to be loose terminals on batteries. Do you have a monitor? If so what is your cranking volts while Key in start position?

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post #4 of 10 Old 08-03-2013, 10:08 PM Thread Starter
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The reason I only replaced only 1 battery is the other one tested perfect so I decided to only replace 1. I don't have a monitor but I will go by advance auto and have them test my alternator and battery's again. I do have corrosion that will build up on the negative terminal on the driver side battery. I clean it off and eventually it comes back. I'm not sure if this has any thing to do with it or not.
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post #5 of 10 Old 08-04-2013, 07:41 AM Thread Starter
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Update: I went out this morning to crank the truck and it didn't crank and sound very weak. I unhooked both batteries and I have a cheap load tester and I tested them. Both batteries showed over 12v and tested good. I hooked everything back up and the truck fired right up. I know for sure everything was tight the first time I tried. The truck isn't blowing any smoke when I crank up. Any ideas?
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post #6 of 10 Old 08-04-2013, 08:21 AM
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Yea for sure I would clean those battery terminals with a baking soda/water mixture. It's really important to keep them clean to make good contact and lots of people overlook this. Hope it fixes your problem.


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post #7 of 10 Old 08-04-2013, 08:34 AM
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Recently while camping I checked the voltage in the camper battery with the built in battery volt test system. (nothing super advanced) But the night before when I tested it, it showed around 100%. Now it was at less that 25%. I went out and found a loose ground clamp on the batt. Now I know that I tightened that sucker up when I put it in just a few day's and a 1000 miles ago. But, it showed me what one lack luster connection could do.
So what I would do if I was you is check out the Big 3 upgrade-http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0l-performance-parts-discussion/278619-lookin-4-big-3-upgrade-pics.htmlIt just insures you have adequate grounding and power.

The “Big 3” upgrade is a swap or addition to these three cables:

1) Alternator positive cable that runs to the positive terminal of the battery
2) Negative battery cable that runs from the battery to the vehicles chassis
3) Chassis grounding cable that runs to the engine block

Use #1 or welding wire for this job. On our trucks I suggest running one ground to the engine and one to the frame, then ground the cab to the engine or the frame.
I would also invest in those little green and red battery acid killin donuts. And it also wouldn't hurt to pull your starter and have it tested.
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post #8 of 10 Old 08-04-2013, 09:06 AM Thread Starter
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Is there anyway to test and see if a battery cable is bad? I'm thinking the cable on the driver battery could be bad. The negative side is always building up corrosion and the positive one doesn't seat level it's bent a little I think.
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post #9 of 10 Old 08-04-2013, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juice780 View Post
Is there anyway to test and see if a battery cable is bad? I'm thinking the cable on the driver battery could be bad. The negative side is always building up corrosion and the positive one doesn't seat level it's bent a little I think.
Cable just don't go bad. You probably have a loose terminal because the terminal fitting is not tightening all the way down on the post. You can add some wire and splice in new wire with new terminal connector and you should be fine or replace the whole cable altogether.


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post #10 of 10 Old 08-06-2013, 10:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juice780 View Post
Is there anyway to test and see if a battery cable is bad? I'm thinking the cable on the driver battery could be bad. The negative side is always building up corrosion and the positive one doesn't seat level it's bent a little I think.
Do a voltage drop test on the cables if u want, take a DVOM and put one lead on battery + then the big terminal on battery(other end of cable) and remove keys have them in your pocket, take the starter lead by the passengers side battery dissconnect it then touch it to battery+ watch the meter and see the reading not sure on ford specs but in my eyes anything over .2-.5 volts is to much, you could also check resistance of the cable, yet again i dont know the ford specs but size of the cable the readings shouldnt be very high. u can also do the Voltage drop test on any connection, even from the B+ to the cable end touching the battery to see if your droping voltage there as well.
i've seen that issues on 7.3's before, ive heard of a/c compressor hubs being seized on causing a no start/slow crank
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