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post #1 of 8 Old 07-09-2013, 07:25 PM Thread Starter
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Need Ideas on Possible Causes

Started having problems with FICM voltage dropping to approximately 44 volts after starting. Noticed this when Edge CTS started alarming just after starting. Set to monitor battery voltage at same time and have noticed that battery voltage just after cranking is at 11.1v to 11.6v. Seems as soon as battery voltage starts going up, which is generally in about 30 seconds or so and into the 12v range the FICM voltage also increases and when the battery voltage reaches the 13.2v range, the FICM voltage runs 47v-48v.

This happened last winter and I had the batteries and charging system checked and was told that there was no problem.

I did notice tonight that the main line on the alternator is very hot to touch. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.

2005 6.0 PSD F-250 SC LB 4X4 Auto

Engine Hi-Idle Mod
AIRAID CAI, zoodad mod,
4" Turbo back exhaust
Coolant Filter & Flushed and changed to CAT ELC
Sinister EGR Cooler Delete
Banjo Bolts
Updated Fuel Pressure Regulator Spring (Blue)
ECM/TCM with VXCF4 Strategy
PHP FICM Programmer-(Economy,Atlas 40,Atlas 80,Hercules)
PHP Gryphon CTS monitoring ECT,EOT,TFT,Boost,FICM Voltage & 5 Custom Tunes
Fumoto valve

(Oil bypass filter system to be added next.)

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post #2 of 8 Old 07-09-2013, 07:37 PM
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Check your batteries. With the alternator working hard and voltage drops that might be all it is.

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post #3 of 8 Old 07-09-2013, 07:43 PM
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My ficm voltage never drops below 48v. Your ficm is probably starting to go I'd say plan on ficm in your near future. Load test the batteries to see if they are still good but your ficm voltage is low and will probably need to be replaced. I saw two ficms for sale in the classified forum today. The lower the voltage the more risk involved with taking out injectors. Good luck.

-Steven

New!! 2015 Mustang ecoboost!!

Sold!!

formally owned:04 6L PSD CCSB
Studs
Egr delete
S&b intake
New dashboss with fuel pressure and egt
Sct Looney by Vivian and Tonywildman xtreme early lock up now php 140x
63.5/88mm 06 turbo with a pmax billet WW2
PHP Atlas 80


My baby-
87 jeep wrangler
350 and 700r4 built by mad dawg transmission
Dyno @ 200hp and 400ftlb at 3100 rpm
On 33s
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post #4 of 8 Old 07-09-2013, 07:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO05SD View Post
Started having problems with FICM voltage dropping to approximately 44 volts after starting. Noticed this when Edge CTS started alarming just after starting. Set to monitor battery voltage at same time and have noticed that battery voltage just after cranking is at 11.1v to 11.6v. Seems as soon as battery voltage starts going up, which is generally in about 30 seconds or so and into the 12v range the FICM voltage also increases and when the battery voltage reaches the 13.2v range, the FICM voltage runs 47v-48v.

This happened last winter and I had the batteries and charging system checked and was told that there was no problem.

I did notice tonight that the main line on the alternator is very hot to touch. Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
The wire is hot because it has a boat load of current going through it or batteries are bad drawing to much current but your ficm voltage still should not drop much like a volt or 2 not 3 or 4.

-Steven

New!! 2015 Mustang ecoboost!!

Sold!!

formally owned:04 6L PSD CCSB
Studs
Egr delete
S&b intake
New dashboss with fuel pressure and egt
Sct Looney by Vivian and Tonywildman xtreme early lock up now php 140x
63.5/88mm 06 turbo with a pmax billet WW2
PHP Atlas 80


My baby-
87 jeep wrangler
350 and 700r4 built by mad dawg transmission
Dyno @ 200hp and 400ftlb at 3100 rpm
On 33s
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post #5 of 8 Old 07-17-2013, 06:26 AM Thread Starter
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Just follow up on what I ended up doing.

I replaced batteries first. That seemed to help a little. Battery voltage actually stayed higher after cranking and when glow plugs shut down was up to normal voltage faster.

Watched FICM voltage next couple of days and it continued to drop. Did a little research and found International part number for the power side half shell of the FICM. Called local dealer and they had 8 in stock. Was less than $133 out door after swapping core. Pulled out FICM and installed replacement half shell. Everything seems to be good now.

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2005 6.0 PSD F-250 SC LB 4X4 Auto

Engine Hi-Idle Mod
AIRAID CAI, zoodad mod,
4" Turbo back exhaust
Coolant Filter & Flushed and changed to CAT ELC
Sinister EGR Cooler Delete
Banjo Bolts
Updated Fuel Pressure Regulator Spring (Blue)
ECM/TCM with VXCF4 Strategy
PHP FICM Programmer-(Economy,Atlas 40,Atlas 80,Hercules)
PHP Gryphon CTS monitoring ECT,EOT,TFT,Boost,FICM Voltage & 5 Custom Tunes
Fumoto valve

(Oil bypass filter system to be added next.)

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post #6 of 8 Old 07-17-2013, 07:30 AM
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You show an example of catching the FICM problem before it got critical. Without a monitor you would have probably come looking for answers to a misfire or even an it quit on me and now won't start issue. This is just another example of why a monitor is cheap insurance to know when to fix something before it leaves you stranded.

BTW, did you test your old batteries? My guess is they are probably still good.

Frank
2007 F-250 Lariat Crew. MBM 190/50s,
KC-68 Stage 3 Turbo,
DashBoss/F/P, and a few other goodies
Stiction Problems - Fix it yourself! - http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...ml#post4509754
Want to modify your injectors DIY - http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0...ger-flows.html

Working for Toys
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post #7 of 8 Old 07-17-2013, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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I agree with you on the monitor being a great advance warning about a problem developing. Even if I don't have that particular PID pulled up on screen at that time. I have alerts set for the more critical ones that seem to occur most often out of the ones that I can monitor.

Yes I did have them checked. I was told that they were good but also that one was lower on charge than the other. The way they check them now only checks to be sure basically that they are checking within a certain range. Kept them and using one in old truck that don't drive much.

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2005 6.0 PSD F-250 SC LB 4X4 Auto

Engine Hi-Idle Mod
AIRAID CAI, zoodad mod,
4" Turbo back exhaust
Coolant Filter & Flushed and changed to CAT ELC
Sinister EGR Cooler Delete
Banjo Bolts
Updated Fuel Pressure Regulator Spring (Blue)
ECM/TCM with VXCF4 Strategy
PHP FICM Programmer-(Economy,Atlas 40,Atlas 80,Hercules)
PHP Gryphon CTS monitoring ECT,EOT,TFT,Boost,FICM Voltage & 5 Custom Tunes
Fumoto valve

(Oil bypass filter system to be added next.)

MO05SD is offline  
post #8 of 8 Old 07-17-2013, 08:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MO05SD View Post
Just follow up on what I ended up doing.

I replaced batteries first. That seemed to help a little. Battery voltage actually stayed higher after cranking and when glow plugs shut down was up to normal voltage faster.

Watched FICM voltage next couple of days and it continued to drop. Did a little research and found International part number for the power side half shell of the FICM. Called local dealer and they had 8 in stock. Was less than $133 out door after swapping core. Pulled out FICM and installed replacement half shell. Everything seems to be good now.

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
Good catch. Glad to got her run-in right again.


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-Steven

New!! 2015 Mustang ecoboost!!

Sold!!

formally owned:04 6L PSD CCSB
Studs
Egr delete
S&b intake
New dashboss with fuel pressure and egt
Sct Looney by Vivian and Tonywildman xtreme early lock up now php 140x
63.5/88mm 06 turbo with a pmax billet WW2
PHP Atlas 80


My baby-
87 jeep wrangler
350 and 700r4 built by mad dawg transmission
Dyno @ 200hp and 400ftlb at 3100 rpm
On 33s
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