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Old 06-25-2013, 03:00 PM
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2005 F250 Wrench Light No Code

The wrench light on my truck comes on intermittently but it seems usually after 20 miles or so. I've been trying to narrow down the problem for a few weeks now and there doesn't seem to be many if any constants. This is my first diesel so I really do not know that much about them but have been reading on how this engine works so bare with me if I don't make any technical sense.
When the light comes on I am generally holding steady around 65-70 but on my last trip it came out about 10miles after refueling and I was still on the edge of town. The trip was about 700 miles and the light was on the majority of the time. The really weird thing is I feel no loss of power, had zero effect on fuel economy, and no codes. When I had it scanned before there was a code 341 for camshaft position sensor but I do not know if that was in there from before or from my problem. He cleared the codes and I was hoping to have something to go by but as I said this trip produced a wrench light but no codes. I have no problems hauling our tool trailer or boom lift/skidster. The only thing that is different is it sounds like it is acting in tow haul mode and the RPM's will stay about 1900 with zero or no turbo but the engine doesn't retard like it normally would.. Engaging tow haul does nothing and if it does it takes quite some time for it to actually kick in and the RPM's shoot up into the 2500's. I was hoping that the camshaft code was a place to start but I was worried I wouldn't get it back together if I started taking it apart.
I apologize for my rambling and hope it makes some sense. It doesn't seem to be affecting the truck that much but I can just feel something isn't right.
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Old 06-25-2013, 03:34 PM
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Your oil cooler is plugged. You truck will show the wrench light when your eot and ect get to be 15 apart. A dealer can pull that code but the light has to be on. Most of anything else that puts the wrench light on will put the truck into limp mode and you'd only be able to do 35mph (IMMSMR). Had the same thing on my truck...good luck.
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:27 PM
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I read a lot about plugged oil coolers and monitoring those temps but don't have the equipment to do it. Was actually happy when the truck threw the camshaft sensor code hoping it was the problem not an oil cooler.
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:31 PM
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If you're on a tight budget and have an android phone go with the torque app and get the Bluetooth obd2 plug in from eBay. It will cost you around $20. This will allow you to monitor those temps and make a more accurate assessment. If money isn't an issue pick up a good monitor and watch it.
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Old 06-25-2013, 04:49 PM
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Sadly money is always an issue. I will give the android app a shot and make sure this is the problem before I pour a ton of money into it. Is this the correct plugin in?

Super Mini ELM327 V1 5 OBD2 OBDII Bluetooth Adapter Auto Scanner Torque Android | eBay

So if it is the oil cooler besides flushing the coolant system what else would need to be done? Should I just delete the EGR at the same time or just hope it isn't damaged yet. I do not plan on adding any tunes, just want to keep it stock. After doing some reading on this before I planned on installing a coolant filter from dieselsite. Forgot to add, thank you for helping, its much appreciated.

Last edited by Full Draw; 06-25-2013 at 04:50 PM. Reason: Thank you
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Old 06-25-2013, 05:13 PM
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If you can get away with deleting the egr cooler do it. That will depend on emission standards where you register the vehicle. Make sure you flush the coolant before you swap the oil cooler. I got an oil cooler from the local parts store for $200. You can get an egr delete from ebay for under a hundred. Change your coolant to CAT1 rated ELC when you do the flush. Might want to install a coolant filter as well. Pull your egr valve out and look for moisture (coolant) in your intake manifold. If you find coolant the egr cooler is bad. When I did mine it took me 22 hours...that was with chasing down parts, coolant, oil and tools I broke or needed during the process (I broke two 10mm sockets on the rear turbo bolt). Long day for sure. Probably only spent 15 hours working on it but I was being slow and taking my time taking pictures and organizing everything so it would go back together smooth. Basic tools the parts and patience is all you need. There's good videos on YouTube that walk you through it step by step. That's what I used. The turbo it's was my biggest struggle.

That obd2 Bluetooth will work. The cheap ones like that are Chinese, so don't expect it to last forever. There are some better ones that run in the $150 range. I bought a cheap one hoping to get a monitor here in the next few months. Either way it's important to monitor a bunch of things on these trucks to keep from having big problems...
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Old 06-27-2013, 05:25 AM
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I was thinking... you may want to do the blue spring fuel pressure regulator while you're working on it...and not necessary but some do it is the ccv reroute. Keeps oil from getting into your intake system because that's where it gets dumped. Search it you'll find plenty to explain.
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Old 06-27-2013, 12:26 PM
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I had already been looking at the fuel pressure spring after doing some reading on here so will do that the same time. Maybe a stupid question, but does this affect the gas pedal pressure? My boss has an 06 F250 and I have to put a lot more pressure on his than mine. Might be just me though.
Reading through the coolant flushing process the guy recommended changing the thermostat, thermostat housing, upper and lower radiator hoses, and the degas bottle cap. I figure since I will have most of the truck apart anyway I may as well do it all at once. I also want to install that coolant filter from dieselsite and eventually an edge insight. Scanner should be here Saturday so I'm trying to limit my driving until then. I'm pretty nervous about blowing the EGR cooler but I think, hoping is a better word, that I caught it early enough. Thanks again for your help!
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Old 06-27-2013, 03:22 PM
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The blue spring won't change the stiffness of the gas pedal. It's just a spring that controls the amount of pressure that goes to the injectors. I believe our trucks have electronic throttles. No cables all computer crap....Good luck to ya.
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Old 06-29-2013, 10:43 AM
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Well its the oil cooler for sure. ECT 194 EOT 220. Highest delta was 30. I think it actually went into limp mode as I was pulling into the driveway, felt like it was chugging. I have the app set to notify me if a fault is thrown and it never said anything when the light came on. I suppose it would be best to also replace the EGR cooler? Time to sell my kidneys and become a stripper haha.
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