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Old 05-27-2013, 07:54 AM
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Cool Hard to start warm / no start when hot

Many thanks to all those who've posted lots of great checklists and information on diagnosing these problems. I'm going to try to give a good story here, but the goal of this post is to be able to ask intelligent questions of the technician at the Dealer tomorrow.

Bought the truck "as is" back in March '13 @ 126K miles. Driven about 500 miles since then, including ~200 miles towing a 32ft 5th wheel trailer (main purpose for the truck). I noticed longer cranks when the engine was warm. 2 weekends ago I had a complete no start after towing. Truck started again after cooling off for 20 minutes. Some other symptoms I'm confident about:

Dash oil pressure gauge flat until engine fires.
Black smoke on WOT at low speed.

Research on this forum lead me to believe that this was probably past my skill level, so ...

I took the truck to our Lincoln Ford dealer, and asked them for a Certified Used Vehicle inspection and a diagnostic on the starting issue. Needless to say they found stuff ... cracked CAC tube, dirty turbo, and a bad carrier bearing (no relation to starting issue, I know). As of Friday afternoon all those things were fixed/cleaned, but the service rep says the starting issue still isnt' fixed. They want to replace the head gasket and "replace some other stuff while we're there". $5300 on top of the previous repair. Tuesday morning I'm going to talk to the mechanic directly, and to see what "the other stuff" includes.

Some things I think I need to ask:
Why replace the head gasket?
What else could cause my hard start issues, and why isn't that the problem?
Can I have copies of the diagnostic outputs (esp ICP and IPR)?
What is the ECT/EOT delta?

Other suggestions?

What I want replaced in "the other stuff" - inspired by bullet proof writeup
ARP headstuds, not OEM
Replace STC with solid fitting, stand pipes and dummy plugs
Clean EGR valve
Updated Fuel Pressure Regulator Spring
Replace EGR cooler - maybe use Bulletproof Diesel cooler instead
Rebuild Oil Cooler
Replace coolant with Caterpillar EC-1 rated, not Ford gold

Are there other things that I should see in "the other stuff" -- that is, things that are easy to fix once you have the heads off?

I know that if I want the non-OEM parts I need to get the dealer's agreement to use those up front. I have a line on a mechanic that is trusted by someone who is trusted by someone I trust. So I think I'll go for a second opinion as well.

Many thanks in advance!

'06 F-250 XLT CC short box 127K, Stock

Last edited by Atiretoo; 05-27-2013 at 08:42 AM. Reason: Insert missing Signature information?
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  #2  
Old 07-13-2013, 06:26 PM
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Follow up -- final solution?

OK, in case anyone looks at this in the future ...
The mechanic convinced me that the head gasket was bad (white residue on degas bottle), and he intended to fix other issues with D-rings, fuel pressure regulator etc. He was willing to install ARP headstuds. So away we went ...

Truck now starts fine even when hot after towing. I put my foot down going out onto the interstate, and no signs of black smoke. After towing for a couple of hours I did see some smoke (white and black at different times), and I think I'm hearing alot of belt noise when the engine is cold. I might be hearing things ...
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Old 07-13-2013, 07:01 PM
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Glad to hear you are up and running! As far as your list, even though you have cat elc it is still a good idea to get a coolant filter.
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Old 07-14-2013, 04:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ford_Fan1 View Post
Glad to hear you are up and running! As far as your list, even though you have cat elc it is still a good idea to get a coolant filter.
It's on the list of things to do! Although the ford dealer did most things right, I think I still ended up with the Ford gold coolant. When I put a coolant filter on I'll swap the coolant too. I'm saving up for a digital monitor now ...
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