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  #1  
Old 05-24-2013, 02:00 PM
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Bunch of codes from dealer - Plz help diagnose!

I bought a used 6.0 with 90k miles on it about 6 months ago. I've only put about 5k miles on it since then because it was stolen the 2nd week I had it, then recovered a couple weeks later. It sat in insurance purgatory for a while, but I've been driving it for about the past month.

Mechanically, the motor seemed fine to me. No dash lights. I have an Edge Insight and my temps are all in check. Mechanically, the truck is 100% stock. I had a remote starter/alarm put in, and sometimes the remote start fails to get the engine to fire, so I suspected it might have a minor injection or ignition issue, or maybe just needed new batteries.

So I took the truck to a Ford dealer to do the heated transmission fluid change and to do my state safety inspection. In the process, they pulled 6 DTC's from the PCM.

The first is a P0611. This seems to be a common FICM failure. From what I'm reading, the soldier on the voltage amps and some of the larger resistors on the circuit board seems to not be able to handle the heat. Reflowing the soldier might clear it up. Otherwise, a pricey replacement might be in order. Does that pretty sum up the P0611 code? Is it normal for a truck to have this code and still run fine without any CELs?

Then I got a few transmission-related lights:
P1876 - Transfer case 2-weel drive solenoid circuit open or short to ground
P1832 - Transmission transfer case 4wd solenoid circuit failure
P1808 - 4wd low indicator circuit failure
P1804 - 4wd high indicator circuit failure
I'm wondering if these are all related. I've kept the truck in 2wd drive mode since I've been using it, but I have verified that 4wd high and low both operate. Is there a common module involved here that might be going bad?

The last code is just a U1900 CAN bus fault receiver error. In most other cars I've worked on, this sometimes gets triggered when disconnecting the battery or when the battery dies. Same deal here, or is this actually a concern in these trucks?

The tech also mentioned something about a misfire in cyl 6, but I wasn't given any codes to indicate that. They're suggesting a new FICM, as well as new injectors and plugs. Does that seem appropriate?

If I were to use this as an opportunity to upgrade anything, any low hanging fruit here?

Thanks!
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Old 05-24-2013, 08:29 PM
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Go get your truck, remove the FICM yourself and send it out to be repaired. Heck of alot cheaper. Try Ed @ FICMrepair.com
Believe it or not, when the FICM takes a dump, you will get all sorts of codes. Some of the codes could have nothing to do with a diesel. I had codes for oxygen sensors, a bunch for the 4X4 system, all 8 injectors and a few other codes when mine died.
Try the FICM before changing injectors. The whole problem that they are seeing with the injectors could be the failed FICM.
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Old 05-24-2013, 10:22 PM
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I'll go through the test procedure tomorrow, but I'm suspecting (and kinda hoping) your right. Anyone have experience trying to reflow soldier the FICM as a DIY fix? Like most reflow jobs, I'm assuming this is only a temporary 'fix' and doesn't actually improve on the weakest link.

Would anyone care to comment on the 58v FICM upgrade options? Any real benefit to these? How about FICM tuning options? Is there a reasonable way to retune the FMIC without removing it and sending it away? Would it be a bit silly to go through all this and not take advantage of an upgraded FICM tune?

Time to nerd up the place: anyone know of the FICM has JTAG pins for debugging? If so, can they easily be used to extract the current running ROM? How about flashing a new ROM? Any idea what micorproc the system is running or at leas what instruction set the architecture uses?
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:28 AM
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I have a pdf file that I posted the link to in this thread: Rebuilding my FICM

Having Ed repair it and putting a tune on it at the same time would be the way to go in my opinion. The atlas tunes are getting rave reviews everywhere.

I failed "nerd" in school, so I can't answer the technical questions.

Ed can do it all, warranties his work and, if you give him a call or email him, he will fix it up (including tune it) and ship it back to you very quickly.

Do a search on the forum for the 58 volt upgrade info. The topic has been discussed many many times over, and those that have it seem to love it. I haven't heard o f anyone having problems that have been attributed to running 58 volts.
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Old 05-26-2013, 05:23 PM
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Ok, so I tested the FICM today. The tech at the dealership told me it was 'shorted out'. I'm not sure what he meant by that, but I'm assuming he tested the voltage and got a very low reading, indicating that the current was passing through another route (ie, the short).

The first thing I noticed was that the test window was sealed up pretty well, with the gasket sticking and some dust inside the gasket. This suggests to me that the test window was never removed while my truck was at the dealership. Otherwise, there wouldn't have been dust all over the cover, the gasket wouldn't have been sticking and would have been cleaned. Odd...

So i tested the voltage with the key on/ignition off and got 48.5v. I then cranked the engine while watching the voltage (gotta love remote starters!) and the voltage held at above 48.0v the entire time!

I'm not sure what the tech was seeing, but I'm assuming he did something wrong? Or am I possibly missing something. keep in mind that the truck runs perfectly fine. From what I've read, a FICM failure is pretty noticeable. Not sure why he's suggesting I pay them nearly $1000 to replace a part that doesn't seem to be broken.
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Old 05-28-2013, 03:12 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yinzer View Post
I'll go through the test procedure tomorrow, but I'm suspecting (and kinda hoping) your right. Anyone have experience trying to reflow soldier the FICM as a DIY fix? Like most reflow jobs, I'm assuming this is only a temporary 'fix' and doesn't actually improve on the weakest link.

Would anyone care to comment on the 58v FICM upgrade options? Any real benefit to these? How about FICM tuning options? Is there a reasonable way to retune the FMIC without removing it and sending it away? Would it be a bit silly to go through all this and not take advantage of an upgraded FICM tune?

Time to nerd up the place: anyone know of the FICM has JTAG pins for debugging? If so, can they easily be used to extract the current running ROM? How about flashing a new ROM? Any idea what micorproc the system is running or at leas what instruction set the architecture uses?
I strongly recommend sending the FICM out to have someone repair it for you, that way you don't screw it up past repair, only takes one piece of solider to drop off and land some wheres and u not know it to totally screw it up, not saying you will just stating it can happen.
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Old 05-28-2013, 10:59 PM
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but if it aint broke, dont fix it, right? or am i missing something?
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Old 05-29-2013, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by yinzer View Post
but if it aint broke, dont fix it, right? or am i missing something?
Well basicly whats going on is if your ficm has had the capicator's burn up and ruin the board it will short circuit other circuit's on the board of the FICM which will cause codes on ALOT of other systems the ficm has ALOT of the same input's PCM, so eathor remove and open the FICM look for anything burnt or solider that has let go, or get a GOOD FICM from another truck and plug it into your truck( make sure it is the RIGHT ONE) and see if it helps the sisuation, but if you got a FICM code test the FICM for the voltage if it goes under 45 volts KOEO or KOER then there IS a problem and fix the FICM FIRST before chasing anything else.

Basicly take the advise from the guys on thes forums it's very commin stuff that happens.
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Old 05-29-2013, 07:43 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yinzer View Post
Ok, so I tested the FICM today. The tech at the dealership told me it was 'shorted out'. I'm not sure what he meant by that, but I'm assuming he tested the voltage and got a very low reading, indicating that the current was passing through another route (ie, the short).

The first thing I noticed was that the test window was sealed up pretty well, with the gasket sticking and some dust inside the gasket. This suggests to me that the test window was never removed while my truck was at the dealership. Otherwise, there wouldn't have been dust all over the cover, the gasket wouldn't have been sticking and would have been cleaned. Odd...

So i tested the voltage with the key on/ignition off and got 48.5v. I then cranked the engine while watching the voltage (gotta love remote starters!) and the voltage held at above 48.0v the entire time!

I'm not sure what the tech was seeing, but I'm assuming he did something wrong? Or am I possibly missing something. keep in mind that the truck runs perfectly fine. From what I've read, a FICM failure is pretty noticeable. Not sure why he's suggesting I pay them nearly $1000 to replace a part that doesn't seem to be broken.
If it runs fine, leave it be.
There could have been a loose connection somewhere or a billion other things that temporarily set the codes. Clear them and if they don't come back..drive on and enjoy.
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Old 05-29-2013, 11:04 AM
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Cool, codes have been cleared for a week now and haven't come back. I'll keep an eye on it. Hoping for the best. If I end up spending some cash to fix it, I'll likely get a tuned upgraded unit, but I'm hoping I'm not forced to. Thanks!
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