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post #1 of 6 Old 04-19-2013, 09:05 AM Thread Starter
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Help!

i'm trying to replace my egr cooler. my back most 10mm turbo bolt has rounded on me, cannot fit a 3/8 on it either. what do i do just get the bolt off? thanks!
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post #2 of 6 Old 04-19-2013, 09:33 AM
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Even useing top of the line broen bolt extractor tools you may get to the point of the last 2 options.
1. You can remove it pedastal and all. An adventure all its own.
2. You can remove the transmision for access, slide under and draw yourself up between the engine and transmision and cut off or grind off the bolt head then spend another hour or so getting the threaded part of the bolt out of the turbo ear.

I wish ya luck.


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post #3 of 6 Old 04-19-2013, 05:13 PM
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I assume this is an 03?

if so a 17mm bolt extractor will grab the bolt at the collar (not the head) and give you a large surface area to bite into.

Otherwise I have heard of seperating the turbo on the truck and since the exhaust housing is all that bolts to the pedestal, it will stay and you'll remove the pedestal and exhaust housing as one

if it's not an 03 and you have a vertical rear bolt well then I don't know what to tell you,shouldn't have rounded it off because that would be pretty hard to do

-Matt

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post #4 of 6 Old 04-21-2013, 06:10 AM
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You can remove the turbo and pedestal as one! I had to do that on my 03' it takes a lot of patience and maneauvering. U might have to tear out some of the heat wrap on the firewall above the turbo


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2003 Silver 6.0L PSD CC/SB FX4
EGR Delete, Oil Cooler upgrade
Blue Spring & Banjo Bolt Upgrade
AFE Stage II Intake, MBRP Straight 4" Turbo back
RBP 6" tip
SCT Custom Tuned
Autometer GS series
BFG A/T 285s
Recon Smoked Cab Lights
Recon Interior L.E.D.
Recon 3rd Brake L.E.D.
Custom Fiberglass Center Console
Two 10" Sundown Sa4's, Hifonics 1200 RMS mono
Optima Batteries
Meyers 7.5C Plow
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post #5 of 6 Old 04-21-2013, 06:12 AM
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"I know this is an old thread, but I'm gonna put my two cents in anyways. You can remove the turbo and pedestal at the same time to twist the turbo to access the rear 10mm bolt. Use a shallow 10mm - 1/4" drive socket, then a 1/4" universal joint, followed by a 6" extension then your ratchet. coat the sh** out of the pedestal bolts with pblaster. it will take a steady hand to line up your socket and U-joint between the compressor housing and pedestal but it saves hours of trying to reach behind the turbo to remove the 3rd turbo bolt. the same thing happened to me - 3rd bolt froze up and stripped. twist the turbo clockwise until you can see the 3rd bolt. tap a 3/8" socket onto the bolt then remove (you will have A LOT of extra room for torquing this bolt off.

re-installing the third turbo bolt => I know your thinking F the third bolt but this is less rigged and you will feel better about yourself
I took a 3/8" in socket (which is just smaller than the 10mm) banged the socket onto the bolt while it was in a vice. loosely install the front two 10mm turbo bolts, reach behind the turbo and finger tighten the rear 10mm bolt with the 3/8" socket pressed on. align and tighten your y-pipe and downpipe then reach behind with a 3/8" drive and a small extension and torque it to specs. The socket is still on that 10mm :-P"


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2003 Silver 6.0L PSD CC/SB FX4
EGR Delete, Oil Cooler upgrade
Blue Spring & Banjo Bolt Upgrade
AFE Stage II Intake, MBRP Straight 4" Turbo back
RBP 6" tip
SCT Custom Tuned
Autometer GS series
BFG A/T 285s
Recon Smoked Cab Lights
Recon Interior L.E.D.
Recon 3rd Brake L.E.D.
Custom Fiberglass Center Console
Two 10" Sundown Sa4's, Hifonics 1200 RMS mono
Optima Batteries
Meyers 7.5C Plow
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post #6 of 6 Old 04-22-2013, 07:24 PM
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i just cut the the head off with a torch and lifted the turbo off the "stud" that was left. then a pair of vice grips and a little heat and it came right out. just don't burn any wires!!
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