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  #1  
Old 03-05-2013, 01:19 PM
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NEED NO START HELP ASAP HELP!

Help figuring out why truck won't start. Full of tap water in middle of flushing!I have fuel in the filter housing,FMV 47.5-48.5, ICP 800-900 cranking, All fuses & relays are good, would not start on Innovative tune...returned to stock tune started once...ran rough and died...will not start again, reset emergency fuel cut-off switch.

I looked through the no start checklist, but can't figure it out yet. I need quick help. Feel free to call my cell 541 760-5651 if you got something for me to try or check out. I follow instructions well...lol
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:20 PM
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Water got in FICM and fried it. .2 volts at pin and moisture under cover.

Can I drain all tap water from driver side and radiator and run the block heater during tonights coldest temps since it will be right at freezing?
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Old 03-05-2013, 04:53 PM
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NEED NO START HELP ASAP HELP!

I would leave the water in it bc with low coolant block heater isnt going to work properly


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Old 03-05-2013, 04:56 PM
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Right at freezing isn't a big deal, especially with block heater on.
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Old 03-05-2013, 05:56 PM
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Never run a block heater without coolant. If you do, you will be buying a new block heater. Regular water is OK for a while, but you need the anti-freeze to prevent corrosion.

Any idea how the water got into the FICM?
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Old 03-05-2013, 08:07 PM
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A cover torx bolt was loose and water got into through the cover while I was flushing. Frickin sucks. This is 2 FICM's fried in 3 years. One because of weak batteries and one now because of water getting in the cover. Damn my luck!

The block heater element is on the passenger side of the block and I didn't drain that side of the block so won't the block heater work fine or do I need to fill up the entire coolant system with water for it to work best?
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Old 03-06-2013, 09:59 AM
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I don't know for sure, but the element may not be fully submersed. In any case, more fluid is better from an oxidation/corrosion point of view.
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Old 03-06-2013, 11:10 AM
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I'm Just going to pull the starter and drain the entire block and not worry about the block heater. It will be better for flushing anyways!
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Old 03-06-2013, 04:48 PM
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It only takes 15 minutes (or less) to remove if you have and use extensions to get to the starter bolts. Disconnect the batteries!
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Old 03-06-2013, 05:05 PM
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Removing the starter wasn't as bad as people made it out to be. Now I've got a fumoto valve installed and am waiting for another 108-n fumoto valve(since I robbed the one from the driver-side block) and Ed @ FICMRepair.com to fix my fu(&ing FICM. At least I will have a better than stock FICM when all is said and done. Plus I'm having Power Hungry's Atlas 40 stategy put on my FICM.

Then I can resume flush with restore+ and finally bulletproof this motor! AND some fresh tunes for my ECM rollback and studs when all is said and done.
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