Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Clive, IA
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Need some opinions/help!
I will tell you the back story before getting to my problems.
I had been having some weird problems with my truck the last couple months. Every once in a while my battery voltage would spike to 15.9...the speedometer, odometer, radio, power windows and locks would all go dead. I would hear a click and then everything would come back on and the battery voltage would return to normal. It would happen very frequently some days and not at all others and everywhere in between.
The only thing that made sense to me was the voltage regulator in the alternator was bad. I ordered a DC Power alternator. Installed it on my truck and it was fine for a couple days...battery voltage was good and it ran fine. After 3 or 4 days I had a day where the battery voltage was reading low (11.5). I didn't drive the truck much further and when I started it the next morning everything was fine that day. The next day is when all the drama started.
I stayed home from work because I was sick...I fired up my truck to go get a beverage and some food that night and and my battery voltage was low again. I made a couple stops and by the time I started heading back home the battery voltage was down to under 8. It went down under 5 then I lost everything (headlights, whole dash, etc) and the truck almost died. I coasted home and parked it for the night.
The next day we put 2 new batteries in it. The truck fired up the battery voltage was still low. We noticed the power wire from the alternator to the battery was scorched (presumably from the voltage spikes) so we replaced that. Fired up the truck again...good for a couple seconds and then voltage spiked to 15.9. Shut it off and thought it had to be the new alternator. Pulled the alternator out and took it to an auto parts store to get it tested. Tested good. Called DC Power and they were really helpful...the guy I talked to gave me his personal cell phone number so I could call him after hours if we need more help. Anyway the DC Power alternator came with a pigtail wiring adapter to go from their wiring terminal to the factory wiring loom. He told me to clip the yellow wire in their pigtail (that wire connected to the red wire in the factory loom) and put a eyelet connector on it and connect it directly to the post on the alternator. He told me they had seen the issue a few times...that red wire is the factory loom had gone bad. Not sure where it goes but it must tell the alternator when the batteries need more juice. Big thanks to Ed at ficmrepair.com as well. He sold me the alternator and helped trouble shoot a lot of stuff.
Anyway...that fixed the problem. The voltage has been good for a few days and truck has run great. Then Saturday another problem popped up. The truck sat while I was working and when I got back in it to go home it wouldn't start. It cranked over fine but would pop off. It finally started after some persistence. I was hoping it was a fluke deal but not so much. Tried to get in it this morning and again it wouldn't start...crank over but no fire. I tried to return the truck to stock (SCT programmer) thinking maybe there was a glitch in the program but that didn't work either.
Do you guys think I fried my FICM through all this battery/alternator drama? I watch my FICM Voltage all the time and have never seen it drop below 47 while driving. Don't know what the voltage was during cranking saturday night or this morning.
My other issue is when I returned my truck to stock this morning my CTS monitor won't recognize my truck. It has a long message saying its a different truck and that if I select "no" the monitor will power off and not work for my truck again. What's the deal with that?
Sorry for the long post but I wanted to tell the back story so if someone else is having similar issues they can catch it earlier than I did and maybe keep stuff from breaking. Any opinions or answers to my current issues will be greatly appreciated.
2004 F350 KR SRW, 5901 Viper, High Idle Mod, 3" Icon Leveling Kit, Toyo MT 33's, PHP tuned FICM/ECM, AFE Stage II, ARP Head Studs (new 06/07 heads), Oil Cooler rebuild, FCDP EGR Delete, FCDP Coolant Filter, NUC Oil Bypass, 4" MBRP Turbo Back Exhaust, Barder 1.5 Stage VGT Turbo, SCT, CTS monitor, SSBC 8 Piston Brake Calipers