Heating Issue

[bmiller]

I have an 05 6.0 f250 and my interior heat is not working right. it takes forever to get any heat. coolant level is right. I've got hot hoses going to the heater core but the return line is cold. So my question is there a chek value or therstat in the heater core area? It is related to a flow issue thru the heater core. Any Ideas? Thanks Guys

[southend]

Some truck have an inlet valve, thats it. From what I hear, the heater core is easy to change. Sounds like it's clogged. I would install a monitor to check the oil cooler, and a coolant filter.

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[ZMANN]

heater valve near the oil fill can fail

[bmiller]

is that the value that has the vac line going to it? Can you just bypas it with a piece or straight pipe?

[thomaslord84]

Most of the 6.0's have the inlet valve that southend is talking about. It is supposed to close when you turn the Max A/C on, so theoretically there will be no way for any heat to drift through the heatercore and into the truck. If you look on the heater hoses you cant miss it, it is pretty large and has 1 vaccuum line running to it. If you have it I would delete it first and see if it is stuck closed causing no or little water getting to heater core. All you need to do is go to the local parts store and get a metal barb hose coupling, IIRC its 5/8", and some vaccuum line caps. Cap the vaccuum line and put the coupling in. It will cost about $10 and 10 min to do. If that doesn't work you can move on to the heater core.

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[bmiller]

I'm getting some heat out of it now and then but mainly when the engine is running higher rpm's (more pressure) then let it idle it goes back to cold. I can grab the two hose where it hooks to the heater core and one is hot and the other is cold. To me it seems like the heater core is clogged but I've never had one clog up. Does that happen? coolant is clean but I've never flushed it. Truck has 175K miles now. I believe someone before me did and egr delete I pull the egr value and it's clean as could be. If it's the heater core is that hard to change out? Thanks

[Term3]

Just shine a pen light down into the valve and move the actuator. You'll see in thirty seconds if its working. The valve fails open.

[thomaslord84]

As I stated above if the valve is stuck half or 3/4 closed you will get some heat when the water pump is at full efficiency. The reason I am harping on this is because I believe in starting at the cheapest/easiest point that could be the problem. It is your choice but I wouldnt start at the $100/2 hr job when the $10/10 min job could be the problem.

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[bmiller]

Ok I'll pull it out and look at it and just by pass it and then move to heater core I call parts store they will have a heater core for me today in a few hours so if i need to replace I'll have all the parts i may need. I see they say that the heater core uses 3/4 quick disconnects??? I had to get some plastic rings when I worked on an a/c unit one time is thst the tools that I may need or how do the hose unhook? thanks for the info

[thomaslord84]

Also if you do delete it make sure that you use a metal fitting. It is close enough to the turbo that it will melt a plastic/pvc fitting. I know this from experience. The plastic one lasted about 10 miles and water was going everywhere because the heat from the turbo had melted it.

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