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  #1  
Old 01-08-2013, 08:40 PM
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Crank/No Start!!!! FICM???

I love my truck....I really wish it would run for more than 6 month long intervals...

Okay, with the "venting" out of the way, here is the quick and dirty...

As some of you may recall, I have finally worked to get my truck mostly "bullet proof". It would honestly be easier to state what I have not replaced... basically HPOP, entire lower end, and FICM! Darn near everything else has been worked on. EGR delete, head studs, gaskets, banks intake, STC fitting upgrade, blue spring, coolant filtration, SCT TSX 8900with a couple tunes, cleaned turbo (haha), etc, etc, etc..... I had to tear her apart two separate times due to money... EGR delete and programmer and all went first. The second time I did the headgaskets and studs. First time around, shortly after I got it all back together and running, I was flushing the coolant... wouldnt start. Thanks to this forum and Mchan, I figured out my issue was the IPR. A quick replacement and she has ran like a charm. Second time around, I didnt have any issues, but she didnt seem to run near as good as I expected. At first she was doing well with all the new upgrades. 22 mpg, plenty of power, etc. She has slowly declined since then. "Then" being June 2012, and I live in Alaska. I give you that info so you understand that the performance has slowly declined as it has gotten colder. So onto the nitty gritty....

My truck sits in a 75 degree garage all night. Startups are sometimes longer than I would expect. I need to idle her for quite a while, or it just runs like plain $h!t. Stutters, skips, doesnt really like to move until I hit about 165-170 degrees on the coolant temp. Never thought much about it. Blamed it on cold outside temps and heck, its a diesel! Startups were getting longer and longer, then one day she said "NO!!!" Crank/no start once again. Oh what a joy...

So I wont waste anymore of your time telling you what all I checked for, but I will say I did the basics. Finally I got to the FICM and here is what I found:

Key on/Engine off - Starts off at 24 volts, and slowly fades to 21 volts.......Then as soon as the injector buzz test is done it goes to 48 volts... weird!

Then when I had the wifey crank her, she would sit right at 18.8 volts.

These facts seem to tell me instantly that the FICM has indeed failed. Of course AFTER the fact, I do a little research online to find out that my cold running issues were all FICM related issues, telling me that she is dying, and I find a great video of someone with a known failed FICM and it was doing EXACTLY like my girl was when she wouldnt start!

So if you have made it this far through my post (thanks for reading) can someone confirm that my FICM is poopy??! Also, what is my best route for a FICM?? Now to answer the second question, I want to throw this at you...

I daily drive my truck about 70 miles round trip on the highway everyday. I do not race my truck, I do not need to beat Mustangs and Camaros (although entertaining, I already have a race car!), I tow often but not crazy. Usually my 28' car hauler (7,000 lbs with car), 5500 lb fifth wheel camper, and 2,000 lbs worth of snowmobiles (snowmachines for my fellow Alaskans!). I tow the fiver about every weekend in summer, the car hauler about 5 times a year...you get the point. I have three tunes that I run, and here is my reasoning:

Most importantly 300+ days a year is fuel economy, so my truck mostly runs an economy tune.

A close second is my tow tune, since I tow 60 days of the year. Nothing wild, probably a 40hp tune and has a turbo brake. Works great, thanks MKM!

Lastly, is the performance tune. When I had MKM build it, I told them that I dont ever want to do headgaskets again, but I wanted to feel some of that 6.0L power. I would guess it adds 65hp at most, and is just enough to smoke out the prius on a "fun" acceleration. I enjoy it, but could live without it.

My truck is broke. My wife and I both work. I fly airplanes, usually late at night. Point is, we cant rideshare. I need my truck back ASAP, HOWEVER, I CAN wait if necessary for something GREAT. I am willing to make a short term sacrifice for long term results, is what I mean. Something else that has become VERY important to me with this 6.0L is warranties. I dont want a product that a company wont even back for a day.

So with ALL of that said, where do I go from here? I thought that replacing a FICM would be as easy as a few hundred bucks, four screws, and three wiring harness's. I was wrong. So many options available. 48v, 53v, 58v. Swamps, BPD, Factory Ford. Tunes... on a FICM??!! Holy crap, what next?!?! Its all very overwhelming for me. I want reliability and performance. Also, I am not made of money... Air Force doesnt pay that much these days! I can get a Bullet Proof Diesel FICM here in AK for $800...Just not sure its worth it. I have not seen any kind of warranty associated with their product. Swamps has a 1 year warranty... yippee... Then there was another company I found that offered a 5 year warranty... and there price was something like $350!!! Seemed like a good deal to me! But wouldnt 58v be better than just a factory replacement?? Too much for me to decipher, so I look to all you intelligent types for help. Also, bear in mind that I am in AK... so shipping my FICM to have someone else ship it back can get very expensive...plus some crappy business's wont even ship to AK...jerks...like we dont exist! Ok... I will shut up now, and await your expert opinions... THANKS!!
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  #2  
Old 01-08-2013, 09:15 PM
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FICM took a poop. Call BPD and order a new 4 phase or 6 phase FICM power supply from them and call it good.
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  #3  
Old 01-08-2013, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuscany View Post
FICM took a poop. Call BPD and order a new 4 phase or 6 phase FICM power supply from them and call it good.
Cool, thanks for the reply. I can get a BPD 6 phase here in AK. Is it really worth the $800??? Are any of the "FICM tunes" worth a dang??!

Also, I just came across a FICM fix for us "do it yourselfers"... Anyone got an opinion on cracking the case on these bad boys and dropping some solder to fix the problem??
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Old 01-09-2013, 02:33 AM
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Yep, your FICM is 10 toes up. And another vote for the Bulletproof FICM. DIY and there's a good chance it'll fail again in the future. I think that the upgrades you get (improved heat sink, redundant circuits, option of 53v or 58v, military grade hardware) definitely make it worth the money.
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  #5  
Old 01-09-2013, 12:10 PM
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It will fail again?? I don't believe you...

Oh wait... You're right!! So with a newborn baby, and two mortgages, I decided to try to save myself some coin and I attempted the fix. Resoldered all 24 problem areas and reinstalled. All went well. Volt check showed 48v during all phases... Cranked her over... Fired right up!! Idled for about five minutes, then took her for a spin. She died about 200 yards down the rode... But fired right up. I attempted to make it around the block and just get her home. She died again a quarter mile away from the house. 130am, I walk into the bedroom and awake the sleeping monster to have her tow me home with her 150... That was the worst part of it all!! I reaccomplished a volt check this morning. KOEO it showed 38v and steadily declined to 28v in about 5-8 seconds. I am sure she has failed again, and my solder job sucks... Now onto the scary part...

When I turn the key forward the injectors do not buzz at all. Every once in a while after I cycle the key about 10-15 times they will buzz, but not all the time as I know they always had. Even before I took the FICM apart. So I am hoping, and praying, that the FICM is all kinds of messed up and I have not killed all 8 of my injectors. Thoughts??

I would much rather spend $800 than $2600 right now... I will be headed into town soon to visit Ron at Different Strokes of Alaska to purchase a BPD FICM... I hope to God it works...

Thanks for everyone's input. I will continue to post until she is fixed... Drives me nuts when people post their problems, but never post their fix... Essentially screws us all, as I have recently learned!
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Old 01-09-2013, 12:13 PM
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Yeah I have the utmost confidence you will be 100% satisfied with the new BPD hardware on your truck!!
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Old 01-09-2013, 06:45 PM
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No way! Really sorry to hear it died again so quickly, and I honestly didn't think it would go that quickly. I was thinking months and months later.

Don't panic about your injectors yet. If the FICM is that messed up and died that quickly, I think there's a good chance your injectors will be okay (if they were ok beforehand). A lot of the failures I know about occurred when people drove for a long time on a weak FICM, not one that had a catastrophic failure. Then again, it sounds like you may have put a fair amount of miles on the truck with a weak FICM.....
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  #8  
Old 01-10-2013, 12:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Snake View Post
No way! Really sorry to hear it died again so quickly, and I honestly didn't think it would go that quickly. I was thinking months and months later.

Don't panic about your injectors yet. If the FICM is that messed up and died that quickly, I think there's a good chance your injectors will be okay (if they were ok beforehand). A lot of the failures I know about occurred when people drove for a long time on a weak FICM, not one that had a catastrophic failure. Then again, it sounds like you may have put a fair amount of miles on the truck with a weak FICM.....
Yes Sir... Unfortunately (hindsight 20/20..??...!!) I may have put about 5,000-8,000 miles on a failing FICM. It seems that my problems get worse before they get better though... I dont know if I laugh or cry, but heres the latest and greatest...

Went downtown to possibly one of the best Powerstroke shops in the country... Different Strokes of Alaska. My fellow Alaskans know exactly who I am talking about. A man named Ron who is an honest business owner and someone who stands by his word. He now stocks BPD FICM's, so I decided to drop down the big bucks for the greatest FICM at this time... I took my time and did the install EXACTLY as the instructions state. First test prior to starting with the KOEO... 68v.... and rising!!!! Huh???!!!! Continued to climb to 110v, and thats when I had enough. Ran the test two more times, check my voltmeter on a few batteries. Borrowed the neighbors voltmeter... same outcome everytime. I called Ron up at Different Strokes. He was perplexed to say the least. Tried a few different things, and nothing changed it. During all of this, my injectors still dont do the buzz test, like they ALWAYS have in the past. Ron said, hell, give it a shot and try to start it. I gave her a five second burts... nothing... cranked for 10 seconds....nothing.... gave her a 20 second burst... definitely back to square one. I am so dang confused. Ron thinks that the brains of the FICM could be poopy too. He is going to work with me tomorrow to try to resolve it. Try some known good FICM brains, and see if thats the trick. I currently have a couple MIL codes now though. Used my SCT TSX to run diagnostics. Came up with an ICP circut low (I had my ICP unplugged initially to try to start it that way.... didnt work, then forgot about it until after I fired it up when it actually ran... I think thats why I have the code). Also have crankshaft sensor circuit low. That one is a bit confusing. It popped up out of no where. I think we would all agree that I should go ahead and swap that little booger out, and this could potentially be the fix... But brainstorm with me for a minute.... a "FICM gone wild" could possibly send illegitimate codes to the PCM... no? Am I way off basis to assume this? I feel like after Ron helps me out and gets me a known good functional FICM, and she still doesnt run...Then I would attack the crank position sensor.... Agree?

Also, I have done every bit of work on this truck with my own tools and own two hands. I get A LOT of help from you all (Thanks a million) in the brain area, because I am not afraid to get all greasy and bloody... I am just stupid... Strong like ox, bran like pigeon!! Anyhow, I was curious... Is the crankshaft position sensor a pain, or relatively easy?? On a "beer scale" of 1-12, where would you rate it? I give the FICM changes a 1, just to give you an idea... I give the diagnostics of a crank/no start a 12... and I give headgaskets a moderate 8.... Just so we are on the same page!!

Thanks again everyone!
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:29 AM
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If your CKP is bad or failing it won't allow the PCM and the FICM to sync, therefore your injectors will not fire and the truck will not start. I would have to wonder what's going on with the logic side of the FICM as I have never heard of a failing/failed CKP or CMP cause the injectors to not buzz when the key is turned on.

My vote goes to the CKP. Change it with a new one and see where that gets you.


Also the ICP circuit low may be simply because the sensor is unplugged. Plug it in and clear the code and try it again. If it comes back than more than likely you also have a HPO leak somewhere.
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Old 01-10-2013, 11:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Tuscany View Post
If your CKP is bad or failing it won't allow the PCM and the FICM to sync, therefore your injectors will not fire and the truck will not start. I would have to wonder what's going on with the logic side of the FICM as I have never heard of a failing/failed CKP or CMP cause the injectors to not buzz when the key is turned on.

My vote goes to the CKP. Change it with a new one and see where that gets you.


Also the ICP circuit low may be simply because the sensor is unplugged. Plug it in and clear the code and try it again. If it comes back than more than likely you also have a HPO leak somewhere.
I hear you, and by the facts, I wouldnt disagree with you... However, I find it very odd that the truck would run fine after doing absolutely nothing other than "fixing" the solder points that go bad. I find it hard to believe that the CKP sensor, FICM, and a HPO leak all happened instantly. Now I completely understand anything can happen at any time... Murphys law...I am living proof! I have heard the CKP and CMP sensors are virtually failproof, and right around mid June 2012, I had all my injectors out of the truck, all inspected by someone smarter than I, they were cleaned and got all new o-rings. I completely cleained the oil rails, put in new stand pipes and dummy plugs with brand new o-rings, and October of 2011 I upgraded from the old STC fitting on the HPOP. Can it still be a HPO leak? Absolutely! However, I think we would all agree that its highly unlikely.

I forgot to mention in a previous post, I also have a Intake Air Temp circuit low code. So again, this is whats going on for codes in their entirety:

IAT sensor circuit low
CKP sensor circuit low
ICP sensor circuit low

Arent all of these sensors relaying info to the FICM?? So heres the million dollar question... Do the sensors talk to the PCM, then the FICM, or do they talkto the FICM, then the FICM talks to the PCM?? I ask that because I would think if its the latter, then the poopy FICM could be sending false info to the PCM, therefore setting a code. OR even if it is the other way around and the sensors are talk directly to the PCM first, then I may have some chaffing issues. I am almost leaning towards this because after I moved wires around and disconnected/reconnected the FICM, it started. Maybe I moved the right wire in the right direction and it fired up until the engine vibration shorted that wire out again... I know I know, theres about 50 other scenarios we could all brew up, but I just want to get some of my facts straight before I start throwing more money and time at it. Thanks again for all of your replies. I am headed into the big city of Anchorage. Should be back home in about 3 hours. I will post shortly thereafter what I found out at the shop, and what further diagnostics reveal on the truck.... Not sure if I have mentioned this yet or not, but it would probably be good to know the truck if you didnt know already...

2007 F250 Lariat Outlaw CCSB 4x4

Thanks!
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