More BS with my 6.0...slow crank - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 14 Old 11-17-2012, 04:26 AM Thread Starter
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More BS with my 6.0...slow crank

It seems like a never ending battle with this truck.

My two year old batteries need to be jumped everyday it seemed last week.

They finally died (or I thought) this week. Went out and spent a small fortune on a new pair.

No start, super slow crank, and high current draw (batt cable hot)

Engine has been misfiring the past month badly.

Shop said after it warms up, it runs better, live with it or replace injectors ($$$$$$$$)

Runs like $H!T, since it was new.

After some research, A/C compressor dragging ???

REALLY ???

How so with a FREEWHEELING pulley ????

Would an injector that DOES NOT SQUIRT FUEL hydrolock an engine.

Im at my wits end with this POS....

Great truck otherwise, Awesome UTILITY body, custom rack, new 10plys,

Time to sell, and buy a used Chevy .....

Any idears ??

John

2002 F-250, CCSB, 4" Exhaust, Stock otherwise

http://www.acchollister.com/
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post #2 of 14 Old 11-17-2012, 04:36 AM
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I'm no pro, but it sounds like a starter to me. Did it throw a code? If there is no code, it sounds like a starter. If you had a icp problem you should have got a code. Do you have a way to monitor your icp, voltage from the battery, ipr of ficm voltage?

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post #3 of 14 Old 11-17-2012, 04:43 AM Thread Starter
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I know it does sound like a starter.

In any other vehicle, i would change the starter and be on my way, but with this dam 6.0, it seems like you gotta check this and that, checke voltage here and there....

I dont have a scanner to check this and that.

No Check engine light (but I found that not all faults will throw a light)

I spent money on batterys (for no reason seems like), and now a starter possibly.

Definately cant spent money on a scanner, truck is for sale in classifieds, btw.

Any other thoughts?

John

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http://www.acchollister.com/
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post #4 of 14 Old 11-17-2012, 06:30 AM
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Wow dude ya got a few issues going on I will try and break em down by group.

First off the new battery's were needed you didn't waste any money there.
On a 6.0 or any computer contolled vehicle the electrical system is the most critical. Every sensor or controller is electrical and proper voltage is necessary

Group 1 Cranking & voltage draw:
You could have a bad starter causeing your draw down, needing more amps to make it turn than normal. Internal starter damage.

Engine in a mechanical bind requireing more power [amps] than normal to turn the motor over. Here is where the a/c can come into play. A a/c clutch that the bearings have froze up on that [freewheeling pulley does no longer freewheel] and can require considerable energy to overcome.
Dirty/corroded cables and connectors can keep the necessary voltage and amperage from getting where needed and can generate a lot of unwanted heat in the electrical system.

Group 2 Command and control:

The PCM and FICM control everything electrical [which is just about everthing in a 6.0] Proper voltage is critical here. If the voltage level drops below 8 vlts the PCM and FICM quit working or get really freaky if they do work at all.
Continual low voltages can cause permanent damage to the PCM and FICM. The PCM controls everything the FICM controls injection and the injectors. While the FICM may still work it has been damaged and will eventually fail on you. FICM repair.com is highly recomended for FICM repairs

Low voltage can also damage the injectors themselves [the solenoids]
Note: Their is some debate on this but I am of the group that believs it does damage the injector solenoid.

While a scanner would make it easier a simple cheap volt meter will do the job for trouble shooting. It will just take a lot more time.

I am probably forgetting something but I have to go to a doctors appointment. I am shure someone else will chime in with anything I missed.


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post #5 of 14 Old 11-17-2012, 04:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyboy950 View Post
Wow dude ya got a few issues going on I will try and break em down by group.

First off the new battery's were needed you didn't waste any money there.
On a 6.0 or any computer contolled vehicle the electrical system is the most critical. Every sensor or controller is electrical and proper voltage is necessary

Group 1 Cranking & voltage draw:
You could have a bad starter causeing your draw down, needing more amps to make it turn than normal. Internal starter damage.

Engine in a mechanical bind requireing more power [amps] than normal to turn the motor over. Here is where the a/c can come into play. A a/c clutch that the bearings have froze up on that [freewheeling pulley does no longer freewheel] and can require considerable energy to overcome.
Dirty/corroded cables and connectors can keep the necessary voltage and amperage from getting where needed and can generate a lot of unwanted heat in the electrical system.

Group 2 Command and control:

The PCM and FICM control everything electrical [which is just about everthing in a 6.0] Proper voltage is critical here. If the voltage level drops below 8 vlts the PCM and FICM quit working or get really freaky if they do work at all.
Continual low voltages can cause permanent damage to the PCM and FICM. The PCM controls everything the FICM controls injection and the injectors. While the FICM may still work it has been damaged and will eventually fail on you. FICM repair.com is highly recomended for FICM repairs

Low voltage can also damage the injectors themselves [the solenoids]
Note: Their is some debate on this but I am of the group that believs it does damage the injector solenoid.

While a scanner would make it easier a simple cheap volt meter will do the job for trouble shooting. It will just take a lot more time.

I am probably forgetting something but I have to go to a doctors appointment. I am shure someone else will chime in with anything I missed.
All good ,sound advice,pull that starter,and bench test it,those suckers,can go out in a heartbeat,I keep a couple brand new in my shop. maybe loosen the serpentine belt first,and make sure the a/c compressor is turning freely. don't buy a chebby! just gonna be fixin rust holes and replacing suspension stuff all the time.

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post #6 of 14 Old 11-17-2012, 04:22 PM Thread Starter
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Well I found out a few things with the truck today.

First off the batteries are FRESH and fully charged.

I had my buddy engage the start circuit as I watched the A/C compressor.

The clutch would ENGAGE will cranking, and release when the key was released .... WTF ??

Most vehicles systems will NOT allow an A/C signal while cranking.

Now, I pulled on the belt, and engaged the tang to loosen belt.

Upon cranking, no improvement.

Before realizing the belt could be loosened with the tang, I had started to remove the upper shroud. Which included removing the upper hose.

THIS IS WHEN IT GOT WORSE...

Nasty oil in the coolant...

Not sure if it related, and just "another" problem with this POS !!

I believe the coolant has been this way for a while, and the plastic resouvour has been nasty for a while.

I dont believe its a major problem, but ?????

If ANYONE is in need or otherwise interested in a nice utility body truck, new 10plys, rack, etc..... and is willing to tackle these problems on an engine with less than 150K on it, its FOR SALE for extrememly CHEAP !!!


HERE:


http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/tru...ml#post3345539

John

2002 F-250, CCSB, 4" Exhaust, Stock otherwise

http://www.acchollister.com/

Last edited by ChiefRocka; 11-17-2012 at 04:31 PM.
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post #7 of 14 Old 11-17-2012, 05:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ChiefRocka View Post
Well I found out a few things with the truck today.

First off the batteries are FRESH and fully charged.

I had my buddy engage the start circuit as I watched the A/C compressor.

The clutch would ENGAGE will cranking, and release when the key was released .... WTF ??

Most vehicles systems will NOT allow an A/C signal while cranking.

Now, I pulled on the belt, and engaged the tang to loosen belt.

Upon cranking, no improvement.

Before realizing the belt could be loosened with the tang, I had started to remove the upper shroud. Which included removing the upper hose.

THIS IS WHEN IT GOT WORSE...

Nasty oil in the coolant...

Not sure if it related, and just "another" problem with this POS !!

I believe the coolant has been this way for a while, and the plastic resouvour has been nasty for a while.

I dont believe its a major problem, but ?????

If ANYONE is in need or otherwise interested in a nice utility body truck, new 10plys, rack, etc..... and is willing to tackle these problems on an engine with less than 150K on it, its FOR SALE for extrememly CHEAP !!!


HERE:


http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/tru...ml#post3345539
Sorry to say, but it sounds like you have either a blown headgasket(s) or blown oil cooler. I'm thinking headgasket(s), and I suspect your hard starting and poor initital operation upon startup is due to coolant/oil leaking into the engine cylinders when the motor is shut off.

Sorry to hear you're having so many problems with your truck.

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post #8 of 14 Old 11-17-2012, 05:48 PM Thread Starter
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If that was the case, would there be either coolant/oil being burned ... Causeing smoke at restart ?

Oil cooler is located where, exactly ?

John

2002 F-250, CCSB, 4" Exhaust, Stock otherwise

http://www.acchollister.com/
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post #9 of 14 Old 11-17-2012, 05:58 PM
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Bottom of engine valley under intake. How much for truck?

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post #10 of 14 Old 11-17-2012, 06:14 PM Thread Starter
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$6000 obo...

John

2002 F-250, CCSB, 4" Exhaust, Stock otherwise

http://www.acchollister.com/
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