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Old 10-08-2012, 04:54 PM
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Another coolant question after searching the forum

Was doing fuel filters today and noticed a hint of coolant around the edges of the degas bottle. Drove the truck around until it got to operating temp, ECT and EOC are never more than 6 degrees apart. Doing normal driving, I didn't find any new evidence of dried coolant on the bottle. Did a few WOT passes and found a few trickles of fresh coolant outside the cap.

I have noticed a tea kettle ish sound when I left off the throttle, but I also have a cracked coupler on my metal charge pipe.

A bit more info... I will shamefully admit my coolant is more distilled water than actual coolant, it was low when I bought the truck and am planning on doing a coolant flush as soon as my IPR filter kit arrives, so I topped it off with distilled until then.

Last time I was at the dealer I left it with them for a few days to run performance tests on the truck (which they did at no charge since I had just bought the truck from them) and they feel the coolant is boiling due to being mostly water, and suggested I get it flushed soon to avoid rust and clogging the oil cooler. The tech, who supposedly only works on diesels, thinks the boiling is causing enough pressure to release the cap. Plausable, but the coolant temp rarely rises above 190. According to my SCT, the record high temp is 196.

Thankfully, this truck only gets driven maybe two days a week. I've only put around 800 miles on it since I bought it just over a month ago.

With the evidence presented here... what do you guys think?
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:02 PM
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I'd try a new ford degas cap before anything. Who knows, your old one might not be holding enough pressure
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:13 PM
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Your asking for trouble with mostly water, that will create a mess of rust. Besides getting coolant in there, make sure your coolant level is slightly below the min. mark, unless you have the revised degass bottle. I run mine 1/2" below min. level.

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Old 10-08-2012, 11:13 PM
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if you are running mostly water keep in mind that your boiling point is around 212 now not in the 230 range with 50/50 mix. i forget the actual boil point but i think its close
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:58 AM
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Boiling point goes up as pressure goes up, pressurized cooling system=higher boiling point. I dont know how much i just know that it does. I know its not alot of pressure in there but it should be enough to keep water from boiling. I may get flamed for this but since my hg job i have been running straight water from the garden hose. Cools fine and deltas are good. It may cause some rust but until i need to change for winter its staying in there. I once had a teacher break down coolant to me. Straight water will cool better than a 50/50 mix. Coolants properties are to remove heat and prevent freezing. Coolant carries heat longer than water, Therefore not cooling as fast when it passes through the radiator. So technically water will dissipate heat faster therefore carry more away. Think how long mashed potatoes hold heat vs a heated glass of water. Its a little extreme for an example but the same idea. But even with all that even i think im a little insane for running straight tap water but its working and when it comes down to it the only thing its really gonna hurt is the oil cooler in the event of massive rust particles breaking free from the block and passing through. However there is water in coolant so i doubt its rusting the insides out much more than 50/50 mix will. Eot, ect, was 200/205 towing an empty trailer on the highway. With straight water its dropped to 190/197, same trailer and ambient temp on the same stretch of road. Sorry for the long winded post. Just a bit of hopefully usable info for someone.


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Old 10-09-2012, 04:41 AM
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Without running the correct coolant, you are at high risk of cavitation damage. Cavitation can and will create pinholes and deterioration of cylinder walls and water pump front cover. It is well documented. Forget the cooling aspect............

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Old 10-09-2012, 07:22 AM
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Got the revised cap today and hammered it the whole way home, not a drop of coolant outside the bottle. I won't call it a victory just yet as others here have reported the same thing only to come back a day or two later and say the puking resumed. Turns out I did have the old style cap, I still have the original degas bottle but it has the new level indicator sticker on it. Coolant stays about a 1/4" below the MIN line.

Will continue to monitor the situation and see what develops. Hopefully my IPR Filter kit will be here this week. I don't plan on doing a flush since my delta's rarely jump above 5* apart, figure I'll just drain the old stuff, fill with distilled a few times, and then run a good ELC coolant.
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:18 AM
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What would I be doing right now if I didn't have an iPhone?
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by southend View Post
Without running the correct coolant, you are at high risk of cavitation damage. Cavitation can and will create pinholes and deterioration of cylinder walls and water pump front cover. It is well documented. Forget the cooling aspect............

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I should have thought about this! Thanks dude!


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Old 10-09-2012, 02:34 PM
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Went and picked up 4 gallons of Zerex EC-1 today from NAPA. They had to order it but they had it later in the afternoon and it was only $13.99 a gallon. Question is, since my deltas are good, would I be okay just draining the old crap out, filling with distilled a few times, draining, and then topping off with Zerex? Or do an all out flush?

Obviously I'd rather do a drain and fill, and not risk my apparently healthy oil cooler, but wanted an experienced opinion.
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