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post #1 of 5 Old 03-19-2012, 03:55 PM Thread Starter
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Should I flush it again?

Okay, here's the saga:

Last year I was seeing 15-18* delta. I did a VC9 flush and installed a coolant filter. Drove the truck and within 10 miles was seeing 30-40* delta. Damn plugged the oil cooler. Had a BPD egr cooler installed and OEM oil cooler. Picked up the truck to see about the same 30-40* delta EOT 245+, ECT 210-212. Within about the same 10 miles.

So the question is is it possible I didn't do a good enough job flushing the system and there's still crap floating in it, or did it completely plug up the new oil cooler right away? Should I try flushing the system with VC9 again, but this time run it in the system longer and see where I'm at? Would it accomplish anything?

John

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post #2 of 5 Old 03-19-2012, 05:54 PM
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Did you change the thermostat when you did the flush? Maybe its stuck closed or something..

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post #3 of 5 Old 03-19-2012, 07:04 PM
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If the thermostat was stuck closed, then the coolant and oil would both be getting too hot since the oil is cooled by coolant. A differential temperature between oil and coolant indicates a poorly performing oil cooler.

First thing in the AM, check your temperatures (oil, coolant, transmission, IAT, ambient air) and see if your sensors are all reading within a couple of degrees of each other. You may just have a bad temperature sensor (or two).

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post #4 of 5 Old 03-19-2012, 07:53 PM Thread Starter
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Replaced the oil temp sensor when the work was performed originally. After first start there is a 1 or 2 degree difference. I'm just afraid that I'm going to spend another $1,500 to replace the oil cooler again and it's not going to solve my problem.

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post #5 of 5 Old 03-19-2012, 09:21 PM
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I would never do a VC-9 flush, you are trying to do 2 things at one time remove goo and slime and minerals need to use Restore then Restore+ when i did mine i used 48 gallons distilled water 1/4 tank of fuel new t/stat and 3 1/2 gallons Delo ELC coolant and 12.5hrs of my time.
This should be in the driverside block drain to ease the pain in draining and getting burned.
QuickOilDrainValve.com - the best way to change oil
Here is another great cooling flush if you have to back flush.
http://home.comcast.net/~lyon.family...ush%20v1-0.pdf
Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in take a funnel and dump the ELC coolant down the t/stat hole 3 1/2 gallons or till full to the top of the hole that way you have O air in the block, I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point 3C3Z-8575-AA Thermostat with housing come with new o-ring. They are only $30 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out useing the 1/2 gallon left over but fill with distilled water that will give you 1 gallon of mix fill ONLY to the add mark this is the new full cald mark. Remember the system hold 7 gallons of coolant by draining the driverside block drain and Radiator you remove adout 3 1/2 gallons of DISTILLED water that is why you only use 3 1/2 gallons of concentrate coolant this gives you a 50/50 mix.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169
My advice is to get some ph strips from Napa and check the ph level before add ELC coolant because you what a ph level of 7.0 if higher you must keep flushing to get to a neutral balance in the distilled water then you can add coolant, for me it was 6 flushes or 24 gallons of distilled water.

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
Restore
Restore Coolant System Cleaner Gallon, CC2610, Fleetguard Cummins
Restore+
Cooling system cleaner restore plus, CC2638, Fleetguard Cummins
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