Advice needed on my 6 oh-no - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 03-17-2012, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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Advice needed on my 6 oh-no

My '05 F350 6.0 has got the list of common 6.0 failures and I'm trying to decide what to do and in what order.

Background- 2005 F350 6.0L King Ranch with 135k miles. Bought the truck in '09 with 87K miles. Truck has been mostly problem free except for a dirty EGR valve and replace an alternator and two batteries last year. I've also had some injector stiction, but RevX had completely cleared that up.

I started having rough starts a couple weeks ago. I changed oil and Rev-X since it was due and sent in an oil sample. I also decided to run a scan tool on the truck.

So here it goes,
1. I've got a code for P0611. FICM is producing 34V.
2. Deltas for ECT/EOT are 12-19*
3. Alternator is producing 13.6 volts or less under all conditions.
4. Oil sample showed coolant in the oil. I will send in a resample next week.
5. A clunking/grinding in the front end no matter which way I turn.
6. About $1000 worth of body work since I backed into a mailbow last fall. Doh!

So, I owe about $15K on this truck. I love it, but it looks like I'm staring down the barrel of about $5000 worth of repairs just to make it solid again.

What would you do and where would you start? Should I just try to trade it in on something else?

2005 F-350 King Ranch CCSB 6.0L. 4x4

Functional-Rotella T-6 5w-40, Ford 135amp alternator and a new pair of Interstate Megatron Batteries275/70/18 BFG AT's.

Rockwood Roo 19 Hybrid travel trailer.
Rv comfort and sleeping under canvas!
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post #2 of 6 Old 03-17-2012, 06:15 PM
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FICM voltage is low should be no lower than 45 48 is ideal.
With Delta in that range and the fact you have coolant in the oil you may have an oil cooler or egr cooler problem. It is recomended to change both when doing one.

Clunking check your hubs and the joints. One hub could be partially engaged.


Lord I shall lead them to the water but I will not try to make them drink
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post #3 of 6 Old 03-17-2012, 06:30 PM Thread Starter
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Not that I don't appreciate the response, but I know the FICM is screwed and the oil cooler is likely shot too.

I'm asking advice about what you would do. Do I choke on the repairs and get it bulletproofed and fix the FICM, body work and the front end or do I count my losses and try to trade it in?

Sent from my HTC Glacier using AutoGuide.com App

2005 F-350 King Ranch CCSB 6.0L. 4x4

Functional-Rotella T-6 5w-40, Ford 135amp alternator and a new pair of Interstate Megatron Batteries275/70/18 BFG AT's.

Rockwood Roo 19 Hybrid travel trailer.
Rv comfort and sleeping under canvas!
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post #4 of 6 Old 03-17-2012, 06:46 PM
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Tough call man... Maybe see what they would give? Decide if its worth it... good luck either way man!
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post #5 of 6 Old 03-18-2012, 07:11 PM
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Its a tough one these 6.0 engines can be made very dependeble if you can do the work yourself you can fix almost all common issues in a weekend and for about 1,500 dollars. If you have the time and means pull the cab and start with arp head studs, egr delete if you can in your state, black onxy head gaskets. You can safely push the engine to 800 ft/lbs with proper guages to monior whats going on. The 6.0 engine is a good platform its the emmissions that have all but killed the diesel engine in this country. I have been running mine hard for 66,000 miles without a singel failure yet on this truck and i am around 775ft/lbs of torque. My last 6.0 made it to 277,000 miles without any problems but it remained stock.
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post #6 of 6 Old 03-19-2012, 03:16 PM
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^^ jesus!!! But hell yeah!! Haha id love to see my van reach some respectible #s
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