Compression Ignition Addict
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Colorado Springs
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Once the bolts are out and wiring removed, try and rotate the valve. If it turns you should be able to get it out. If you are worried about not being able to run the truck if you mess something up, you may want to pick up and o-ring and gasket kit for the valve just in case.
Once you get the valve to turn (confirming it is not really stuck), rotate the valve until the bolt holes no longer line up (not too much, maybe 1/8 - 1/4 of a turn). Now take some stout wire (I use rebar tie wire) and wind it through one bolt hole, around the valve, through the other bolt hole and make a nice loop about 6 inches above the valve. Now get a piece of 2x4 or something to protect your engine, and find a good place to lay it down as a point to pry on. Now get a pry bar (stout broom handle, long straight shovel, spud bar) and slip it through the loop and being careful to pull straight up you will be able to pop the valve loose. If the valve doesn't want to come free, the tie wire will break before you get too much force on the valve.
Be careful to not damage the orings when you clean the valve. Some cleaners (brake clean, carb clean) will cause the orings to swell and you will not be able to get the valve back in, so remove the orings first or have a spare set on hand.
2005 F-250 6.0L, crew cab, long bed 4x4
completed in 2011: STC update, new IPR, BPD EGR cooler, oil cooler rebuild, 6.4 banjo bolts, blue spring update, SCT X3, Insight CTS, 58V FICM, CCV Mod, DIY coolant filter (now gone), refinished turbo
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2012: ARP headstuds, OEM gaskets, standpipes and dummy plugs
2015: XDP coolant filter