To change coolant now or wait.. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 7 Old 03-01-2012, 12:14 PM Thread Starter
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To change coolant now or wait..

Hey guys (and gals), first time posting but have been on the site for a month or so studying the 6.0 more than I have been studying for my final exams coming up. I bought my 2004 F250 about a month ago (stock besides lift) and have been a worry wart since about the EGR and oil cooler. First thing I did was buy an Edge Insight CS, installed and immediatley went for a drive, on that drive I had a 28 degree seperation in my deltas. Oasis report shows nothing after August of 2006 at 59k. Truck now has just over 100k. After spentless nights of reading, I went ahead and bought a EGR delete (installing this coming wednesday), new oil cooler, coolant by pass filter (sinister), and the goodies to do the flush (restore, restore plus, 30 gallons distilled water).

Sorry for the long post but wanted to make sure everything is mentioned, my question is, since I dont have the man hours currently to turn the wrenches myself, I am having a buddy of mine at his shop do my EGR delete and oil cooler. Should I flush now even though I am pretty sure my coolers are clogged, or flush after all my brand new goodies are in?

Thanks in advance!
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post #2 of 7 Old 03-01-2012, 12:18 PM
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DO NOT flush after you put in the new oil cooler. You will only clog up the new one if you do that.

Flush it BEFORE you put in the new oil cooler. Then take everything apart and install the goodies.

Good luck!
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post #3 of 7 Old 03-01-2012, 12:57 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the reply!

I figured that would be the route to go, however Im sure left overs from the ford gold will still be in the system, I forgot to mention (knew I would forget something) that I am switching to an ELC. Looks like it will be a fun weekend of fluid maitenance

Thanks again!
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post #4 of 7 Old 03-01-2012, 08:56 PM
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To bad you did not have more time to get the coolant filter on to remove some of the casting sand do the flush then get it done. Did you get a new t/stat that is a must also.
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post #5 of 7 Old 03-01-2012, 10:52 PM Thread Starter
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Yes I did 2 stroker, actually thanks to you! Came upon a lot of your previous posts pertaining to coolant flushing, filtration, ect..
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post #6 of 7 Old 03-02-2012, 08:22 PM
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Glad i could help and hope the repairs go well
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Edge Insight CTS Expandable Pyro
AutoMeter Fuel Pressure Gauge
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pulling a 14,000 lb Alpenlite 5er
97 F350 4x4 PSD CC LB
PacBrake&ATS converter lockup
3" dp 4" exhaust
TruCool 28,000 lb cooler
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post #7 of 7 Old 03-03-2012, 05:38 AM
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Something that a lot of people forget about when flushing is remove the thermostat and be shure the valve to the heater core is open. I wire it open and then remove wire when done. You also need to open the block drain valves, most people do not do that especially the one over the starter.

As a final step I hook up air to the top radiator hose to the engine and regulate it to 30# and blow air thru the block for 20 min. or so with all drains open and the bottom hose disconnected. This helps purge the block of fluids.

I need to note here that I use an external pump and 2 55gal drums when I flush, so not everyone can use my method. First flush is with plain water to the empty drum. Second flush is with half a drum of water and a gal of radiator flush, circulate for 2 hrs with a filter on the return line to drum. (a common household water filter) works quite well.
Final flush with distilled water with enogh to fill engine (not the drum) circulate and then drain then do the air thing. Hook everything back up, reinstall a new thermostat and add coolant, fill and then crank engine and run for a few minutes and burp engine to get any trapped air out. Top off the coolant and yer done. And yes it is a lot of work.


Lord I shall lead them to the water but I will not try to make them drink
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