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Old 02-17-2012, 01:32 AM
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Intermittent Long Cranking...

I have an '05 250 that is about to turn 150k and I have been haveing an intermittent long cranking problem for a while. It seems to be worst when the outside air temp changes somewhat drasticly. I notice it most if when I get home from work in the morning it is in the 30s or 40s and I try to leave in the afternoon (after sitting for several hours and the truck cooling back down) and it is in the 60s or 70s. It seems like I can hold the key for hours and let it spin over and nothing will happen. I can then cycle the key a couple of times and it will fire right up. I don't get it. I would think if there would be a problem cranking it would be when it was colder outside but that is when if fires right up.

I hope soemone has some insight. Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:33 PM
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Check you FICM voltage first. This is a great time to have the batteries load tested too. Any trouble codes?


No start issue? Look here.

Q: HOW DO I TEST FICM VOLTAGE?



A:***FICM voltage tests should be performed with the engine oil COLD (ie, close to ambient air temperature). This will force the FICM into it's inductive heating strategy, which will give you a worse case scenario/voltage reading. If the engine has been run (within 5-6 hours of this test), then the warm engine oil may not give you an accurate FICM voltage.

On all 2003-2007 Ford 6.0L Power Stroke diesel engines you will find the FICM bolted to the drivers side valve cover...you may need to unbolt the coolant reservoir from the 'cowl' so that you can get your arms/hands back there to work on the FICM.You don't need to drain the coolant...just unbolt the bracket that hold the coolant reservoir, and gently move it as far out of your way as possible. Be careful, as there is a plastic coolant connector that can be cracked if the coolant jug is handled forcefully.

On the top of the FICM, you will see a diamond/oval shaped metal plate...remove the two screws from that plate (Torx#20).

under that plate you will either see 7 "lugs"...or 4 "lugs" (depending on the year of the truck)...

if you have a "7 lug FICM"...you want to put one lead from your multimeter onto the upper left "lug"...and the other multimeter probe to ground (bare spot on the cylinder head, alternator bracket, negative battery terminal, etc).If you have a "4 lug FICM"...you will want to check the lug on the right (closest to the drivers side fender).

be careful NOT to lean the probe on the FICM lug...over onto the aluminum case...you might let the smoke out, LOL...

Have someone turn the key to the 'on' position (don't crank it yet)...and see what your FICM voltage is. It should be >46volts.

Next have someone crank the engine...and see what the FICM voltage is while cranking...again..should be >46volts.

Go ahead and start the engine...and see what the voltage is while idling.

If the FICM voltage drops below 46 volts...then it is "bad"... SWAMPSDIESEL
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Old 02-18-2012, 09:13 AM
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I plan on checking that this weekend. This has been going on for a year or better and I have checked the FICM voltage before and it was fine as I recall.

One thing I notice the other day when it wouldn't crank that I thought was weird was no matter how long I let the key sit before I tried to crank or how many times I cycled it the truck only cranked after I heard the vacuum pump do its thing. I had cranked on it long 3 or 4 times before the vacuum pump cycled on. I don't know if that is related or not but it was something i noticed.

In the past it would usually fire up after I had been cranking it for a long time and I would get a TBC Fault message on the dash. Once that popped up it would fire up soon after that.

Thanks for your help guys.
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Old 02-18-2012, 12:49 PM
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I would shure like to be looking at a live data scan to see if your getting a delayed sync event for the FICM or the PCM.
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Old 02-19-2012, 06:45 AM
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I think it has finally stopped raining here so I am about to go out and try to check my FICM Voltage. Part of me hopes it is good and the other part of me hopes that it is low so I have something that I may be able to fix. Wish me luck.

What would I have to have to see the live scan that you were talking about. I don't have a scanner or anything but I have been thinking about getting something probably on the cheaper end of the scale though.

Thanks guys...
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Old 02-19-2012, 09:36 AM
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Unfortuneately no cheap scanners will do well for a diesel truck most of the below $100.00 scanners are for cars. An exellent mid price scan software is Auto Enginuity.
Many members here use it with good results. I think with the enhanced Ford package and adapters it's around $500 t0 $700. A lot cheaper than the $2000.00 to $6000.00 range higher end scanners.
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Old 02-19-2012, 07:24 PM
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Well I didn't make it as far as checking anything just yet. It was still raining and I had to do some running around so maybe I can check the FICM inthe morning.

Thanks Danny for the info. Would that be something easy to use? I have some background as a tech (was a Toyota Tech for about 6 yrs) its been a while though and I have lost most of the little bit of diag knowledge I learned while there.

Thanks,
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Old 02-20-2012, 08:00 AM
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The scanner is easy enough to use, it is the interpretation of the live data that has somewhat of a learning curve. Just for general use tho, reading codes etc it is great.
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Old 02-20-2012, 10:40 AM
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are u running OEM filters and caps? there may be a hp oil leak. i would buy a scangauge2. u cant go wrong with one. ur injectors need at least 500psi of oil in the rails to fire. the sg2 will monitor the values the icp sensor gives off which is a great way to diagnose hp oil leaks. if ficm vlt does ever drop below 45v(ever), then u need to send it to ed at ficmrepair.com. dont go to ford. imo, ed is the best bet and has a great price. just make sure ur batteries individually load test good along with alternator. if not, they need to be replaced with at least 850cca's or better.
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Old 02-20-2012, 11:31 AM
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I think I may have found the problem. This morning I was able to check the FICM Voltage and it was low. With the Key on and the engine not running it got as low as 19V while the injectors were doing their thing, once that stopped it went back to 48V. While cranking it dropped down to 28V and stayed there for a while while I let it idle. I let it run for a few min and it only came up to about 33V.

I work electronics so I feel like I am alright at soldering so I am going to give that a shot. Maybe that will fix the problem. I am off tonight but I will see about taking it to work with me on Tuesday night and seeing what I can tear up.

Could this have anything to do with the fuel smell that I have been getting to or is that another issue.

Thanks for the insight guys. Wish me luck.
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