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post #1 of 2 Old 02-07-2012, 03:01 PM Thread Starter Rookie
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Need help before I burn it down

Hey guys, wrote a detailed description of what was up with my truck under " major problems with 04 electronic related?" Well now I have a bigger issue. I picked up a fuse panel and put it in. Still had no tach, engine temp, or trans temp. Thought well hell. So I tried to pull the hypertech off. Gave me a error 70 code to which hypertech said it was a bad pcm. I did have trailer lights tho which I dunno why I checked that but I did. But 5 min after I tried to pull the programmer I lost part of my new fuse panel, one being the starter selenoid fuse and another one to do with the glow plugs. I dunno if the pcm fried the fuse panel or what but now it wont even turn over. Keep in mind this was 5 min after I put the programmer on in the first place as to when I started having trouble. Sonofa***** I'm pissed.

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post #2 of 2 Old 02-07-2012, 03:44 PM
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I would check your wiring harness from head to toe for chafing. Please put a link to your first post in this post. You will have a better chance at a solution if you keep everything in one post. I would also check for a shorted exhaust backpressure sensor or electric fan clutch. Do you have the +5 volts for the PCM? Is the trailer brake controller faulted?


Q: My message center says TBC fault and my truck won't start, why?

A: The most likely suspect here is fuse# 22 the engine control fuse is blown. The main suspects here are shorted trailer wiring, brake controller fault, Fan clutch or wire shorted, Exhaust back pressure sensor shorted That fuse supplies power to the PCM, GPCM, ICP sensor, fan clutch and MAF sensor. 6.0's are well know for wiring harness chafing and shorting. Some have reported the dip stick rubbing on wires has caused this problem as well. Some times this will prevent a code scanner from communicating with the PCM as it has no power.

Q: How do I know if the cam and crank sensors or working with the FICM ok

A: If you have a good scanner, next time she doesn't start monitor the FICM SYNC PID. It should switch to YES if the ficm is communication with the crank sensor. The other PID to monitor would be CKP CMP SYNC STATUS, which should also switch to yes, or 1. Another great PID to monitor is the ENGINE RPM. You want a very linear, solid reading. Sporadic, or non existent would mean the crank sensor has failed. Thanks: Dazillenger
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