Bad EGR Valve, cooler or ??? HELP!!! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 12-12-2011, 04:21 PM
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Bad EGR Valve, cooler or ??? HELP!!!

I am familiar with the 7.3 not the 6.0 and need help diagnosing.

188,000 miles

Symptoms:
White smoke/steam billowing from tail pipe for about 2 weeks constantly.
Losing coolant but no puddles so assume it is burning

As of yesterday no smoke except for when I angle the truck slightly up or down hill as if pulling into a steep driveway or over a steep curb. Just noticed after driving the truck for about 15 minutes and parking it the degas cap depressurized... I heard it make a small burp but no coolant puking.

Attached are pics of the EGR valve and inside the chamber. It doesn't look too bad to me but I'm not sure. The valve can be easily moved by hand so it is free.

Any suggestions?
Attached Thumbnails
Bad EGR Valve, cooler or ??? HELP!!!-100_6908.jpg   Bad EGR Valve, cooler or ??? HELP!!!-100_6909.jpg   Bad EGR Valve, cooler or ??? HELP!!!-100_6911.jpg  
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  #2  
Old 12-12-2011, 04:48 PM
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update

I just pulled a code:

P0069 Map Barometric Pressure Correlation

Any help?
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Old 12-12-2011, 08:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by a1l71700 View Post
I am familiar with the 7.3 not the 6.0 and need help diagnosing.

188,000 miles

Symptoms:
White smoke/steam billowing from tail pipe for about 2 weeks constantly.
Losing coolant but no puddles so assume it is burning

As of yesterday no smoke except for when I angle the truck slightly up or down hill as if pulling into a steep driveway or over a steep curb. Just noticed after driving the truck for about 15 minutes and parking it the degas cap depressurized... I heard it make a small burp but no coolant puking.

Attached are pics of the EGR valve and inside the chamber. It doesn't look too bad to me but I'm not sure. The valve can be easily moved by hand so it is free.

Any suggestions?
White smoke and coolant going down only one thing in my book your EGR cooler is toast plus you will need to change the oil cooler but the first thing you need to do a coolant flush or in 6 months you may be right back here. the 6.0 needs gauges to check ECT-EOT max is 15* Edge Insight CTS or ScanGaugeII a must. Now to me if you keep driving it and you blow the oil cooler then you will have a mess you will have to change all hoses, here is the flush i did.


This should help you understand the reason to ditch the Gold junk it can't take the heat. Gauges are a must to do this need to know EOT-ECT
Replaced oil cooler still difference in temps

Flushing and cleaning the 6.0

Restore is for cleaning out any silicate goo. VC-9 is for cleaning out iron and scale. Restore Plus is the same as VC-9 and cheaper.

To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
2 stroker
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  #4  
Old 12-13-2011, 05:36 AM
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STOP driving the truck!!! Unless you want to dive into the heads too. Hopefully you haven't already messed them up. Your gonna need to have your system checked after you fix your EGR cooler issue.
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Old 12-13-2011, 09:12 AM
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Will this package work or is the oil cooler "kit" not enough?

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...162&cmd=VIDESC
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:14 AM
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The kit looks good but what do you need to, do you have DEQ testing to be able to pass testing what year truck is it, BPD have great part if you have to go back stock there egr cooler are about as good as they come.
BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0
Here are some others to look at.
GoGoDiesel EGR Delete System The most advanced EGR delete system for your 6.0L Powerstroke.
6.0L Powerstroke EGR Cooler Delete Kit with Stainless Up-Pipe
Here are some good pics
NT Shoptools.com, Mesa
2 stroker
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Old 12-16-2011, 04:59 PM
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It's an 06. No we don't have testing here.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 stroker View Post
The kit looks good but what do you need to, do you have DEQ testing to be able to pass testing what year truck is it, BPD have great part if you have to go back stock there egr cooler are about as good as they come.
BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0
Here are some others to look at.
GoGoDiesel EGR Delete System The most advanced EGR delete system for your 6.0L Powerstroke.
6.0L Powerstroke EGR Cooler Delete Kit with Stainless Up-Pipe
Here are some good pics
NT Shoptools.com, Mesa
2 stroker
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Old 12-16-2011, 11:53 PM
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Do the flush the right way because if you don't you may be here again then do the delete new oil cooler and ELC coolant then you will be good to go, get the kit you like and the right $$$$ amount and if you can down the road get a fuel pressures gauge because low pressure kills injectors under 45lbs at WOT good luck on the fix keep us posted.
2 stroker
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Old 12-17-2011, 06:52 AM
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Flush

Can I just flush it after I do the delete?
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Old 12-17-2011, 07:30 AM
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The pickle you are in is that doing the flush previous to the repair puts your head gaskets in jeopardy. Doing the flush after replacing the oil cooler and deleting the egr cooler has the potential of clogging your new oil cooler. Kind of a 'damned if you do, damned if you don't' situation.
The safest way to do the repair would be to remove the failed EGR cooler, install your egr delete kit, reassemble the engine and then flush the cooling system. Once the cooling system flush is completed, you would then have to take it all back apart to change the oil cooler.
Labor intensive to be sure, but your head gaskets would be protected (if they ahve not failed already).
There is one way that MIGHT work. It requires a little work to be done, nothing hard or major.

First thing to do would be to perform the high idle mod.
On your 06 this is a VERY simple thing to do.
Tucked up above your emergency brake pedal is a small bundle of wires that are dead-ended. In that bundle of wires you want to find the purple wire with a green stripe on it. Apply 12 volts to this wire (any way you wish, but FUSED with a low amp fuse...maybe a 5 amp or so). That is all it takes to do the high-idle mod.
To activate the high-idle, switch on the 12 volts, set the trans to PARK, set the emergency brake, keep your foot off the regular brake and the idle will jump to 1200 RPM and stay there.
To deactivate the high idle all you have to do is remove the 12 volts, OR release the e-brake, OR touch the regular service brake pedal and shift the trans to any gear.
You can leave this wired this way and it will not harm anything, many guys use the high-idle in the winter to warm the truck up and to keep it cool in the summer. I have that wired straight to a "key on" power supply all the time, so whenever I set the e-brake and meet all the other steps, it auto idles to 1200 RPM.

Now, the next step, you have to KNOW that your EGR valve is good. If it isn't and you do this you are still placing your head gaskets in harms way.

With the key switched off, unplug the EGR valve. This will keep the egr valve from operating. DO NOT DRIVE THE TRUCK with the egr valve unplugged thinking this will prevent the coolant from the failed EGR cooler from entering the intake. It will not work that way since the valve can actually be forced open by the turbo, and does nothing for the coolant flowing through the exhaust side of the turbo.

Now, instead of actually driving the truck around for the flushing process, you will use the high idle to simulate the drive times. The turbo at the high idle will not make boost pressures high enough to have an effect on the egr valve.
Once the flush is complete, tear into the engine and replace the oil cooler/delete (or replace) the egr cooler. You will likely have to clean the turbo and the intake manifold as well.
There is a link in my signature line that has step-by-step directions for this whole repair (including the turbo cleaning and part numbers needed).
If you get stuck with anything along the way, you are never alone, the ORG folks will be happy to help.
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