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Old 11-20-2011, 02:17 PM
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6.0 Problems SOLVED Thread.

I would like to start a thread for problems that were SOLVED. Lets NOT turn this into a debate thread or a add my 2 cents thread, or a pissing match.PLEASE DO NOT ASK QUESTIONS IN THIS THREAD EITHER... Remember that there might be some guy reading this that needs his truck back on the road ASAP, and is looking for answers....and lets be honest, it could be YOU someday.

Lets keep this to a senario/description of the problem, symptoms you had, simple diagnosis (couple of sentences).....and what ABSOLUTLEY FIXED THE PROBLEM.

Problem:Intermittent whistle or "tea kettle" sound varied with RPM, then later at idle and a big drop in gas mileage but still boosted on the gauge.

Diagnosis: Had a buddy fire up the truck, went underneath, ran hand on exhaust up pipe on initial start, felt hot air coming out of bellows on the up pipe and soot on firewall. (also a automotive stethescope from Vatozone for 10 bucks i also used)

The Fix: Cracked up pipe bellow was the fix.

What happens in this thread is for "novelty pourposes" as in this is what fixed my truck but might not be your problem. A Ford IDS system, proper testing and a good Ford DT goes along way and might be cheaper in the long run. In the meantime this thread might give you some things to look at or take a gamble on.

Last edited by Rotbody; 11-20-2011 at 06:05 PM.
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Old 11-20-2011, 05:16 PM

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Oh i love this!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will throw out the most common i run into on a daily basis. Also a worst case scenario (WCS) and tools involved.

Customer complaint-Lacks power, blows a puff of smoke upon hard acceleration. Check engine light is on.
Diagnosis-With IDS find EGR stop minimum code.
Repair- Remove the EGR valve, clean the port out with BG throttle body cleaner and a wire brush for a detriot injector, cycle the key on after all carbon or most is removed, you dont want this stuff igniting if you have the glow plugs on with the egr valve in! Throw in a new EGR valve BUT COAT the o rings with grease a light coating is sufficient.
Tools Involved-8mm socket and lady slipper pry bar.

Customer Complaint-Lacks Power Check engine light is on.
Diag-IDS pulls codes for P0299 or P2263 Remove down pipe and inspect for oil. If there is a heavy coating of oil in the down pipe, you have a failed turbo. Remove the turbo and inspect the housings for contact made by the turbine or impeller. If that isnt the case and there is NO oil in the down pipe, reconnect the down pipe. Remove the EBP sensor Inspect the tube If its full of carbon clean it out with throttle body cleaner and a pipe cleaner and with a smoke tester pump smoke through the EBP sensor tube. If you see smoke behind the engine its an up pipe. The other case is with IDS monitor EBP MAP and MGP along with VGT# commanded. If you can not build 23-26psi boost under full bore, you have possibly a clogged turbo and have to clean it. If you suspect a bad CAC Tube you can put soapy water on them and have someone boost the truck in reverse. If you see bubbles you have a leak. if you suspect a failed CAC you can pump smoke through it with the air filter inlet plugged off. If you see that the MAP sensor hose is cracked replace it, if you see the nipple on the intake for the MAP is plugged with carbon clean it. MAKE SURE the hose gets plugged in.
Repair-Up pipe replacement, Turbo cleaning, Turbo replacement MAP sensor Nipple cleaned map sensor hose replaced.
WCS- You have to do a CHRA. Another thing to check is the VGT solenoid Remove it, the end of the solenoid that pushes against the cam in the turbo if it looks like it has been ground down, or worn down. Also push against it with your thumb it should move smoothly should not bind.
Tools involved. If removing the turbo a couple extensions 10mm socket, 8mm socket to remove air cleaner inlet tubes, 10mm ratchet to remove the oil supply tube from the turbo. 7/16ths deep socket to get down and up pipe nuts from marmon clamps. to remove the VGT solenoid 12pt 8mm socket. Flat blade screw driver and small hammer to tap stuck and fussy clamps lose. 10mm socket and 13 mm to remove the up pipe bolts.

Customer Complaint-Engine sputters on cold start runs rough. No check engine light.
Diag-With IDS do cylinder contribution test with the engine cold. Run the injector interrupter what ever cylinder drops below threshold by 10-20 is a cylinder effected by an injector sticking mechanically.
Repair-Remove the valve cover(s) remove the injector(s) that are bad.
Tools involved T40 socket, T30 socket for oil rail there is a socket that is made by blue point that is 1/4 inch drive that will fit on the pass side bank 1 against the a/c box to get the bottom hold down bolts. 10 and 12mm semi deep swivel sockets and 8 inch and longer extensions you can get the valve cover bolts out without a fight. Air tools are great.
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Old 11-20-2011, 06:35 PM
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You left off the torque wrench for installing the injector. The injector hold downs get torqued to 24 ft/lb (33 Nm)
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Old 11-20-2011, 07:31 PM
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I don't know how common this is but this is the beating I took.

Customer comes in with a new to them 04 F-350. Complaint of no heat. Truck ran good, wasn't puking coolant, heater core was cold to the touch.

Removed heater control valve and found it stuck closed in the "max a/c" position, behind the closed ball was a wall of dried stop leak. Cleaned out valve and reinstalled, flushed cooling system and installed new thermostat.

The cooling system flush washed enough of the stop leak out for the head gaskets to start puking out of the degas.

Truck now has ARP studs, Ford head gaskets, new oil cooler and an egr delete.

If you buy a truck in August ALWAYS check that the heat works.
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Old 11-21-2011, 03:54 PM
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RO states: customer while towing loses power back to almost idle. Shuts truck off, refires and everything is fine for a while. Then goes right back to the same symptoms. Wrench light comes on intermittently. Does not do unloaded.

Tested with IDS with a unloaded 5th wheel trailer on back Too much of a spread between deltas for oil cooler. 193 on coolant side and 248 on oil side. Ford techline says anything over a 15 degree spread oil cooler must be replaced.

Coolant flush with VC9 and then new oil cooler. Customer has been fine since.
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Old 11-21-2011, 03:57 PM
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Keep'em coming guys! Even if it is backyard testing, it doesnt matter. AS LONG AS IT FIXED YOUR PROBLEM
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:05 AM
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Swamped Diesel Tech

03 6.0 initiates limp mode on way home late. Then stops dead. No start. Tow to local Ford dealership (first mistake).
Over a period of a month the single tech, who never has less than 5 trucks in shop tries to diagnose, calls Ford Zone Service and decides that camshaft timing pin is loose and a new short block is needed. 13K. Tow it home after negotiating a $900 bill from $2.4K.

Buy a Auto Enginunity from Strickly Diesel and after learning the software, performed systematic and thorough diagnostics. After consulting on this board, the only thing that makes any sense is HPOP.

Talk to service manager and lead tech at the dealership purchased truck from, Bozard is a very large consumer / fleet diesel shop. They concurr and cut me a deal. next day truck runs fine and has since then.

Spend next three months negotiating refund from first dealer. Got full refund.

Lessons learned:
If they want 13K and are willing to trade in your truck, Hmmmmmmmmmmm.

Get the proper tools and learn how to use them.

Talk to the Pro's

Go to the Pro.
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:20 AM
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Customer complains of intermittent low power and smoking on a 03 F-450, especially when under heavy load. Check codes, no logged codes. Test drive vehicle while monitoring ICP, EOT/ECT coolant temps, and MAP pressure. Find truck intermittently losing power on hard pull and showing low boost numbers when it acts up.

Suspect turbo/air management issues but turbo actuates fine and builds good boost when not under hard load. Check fuel pressure and find it at 60 psi at idle but dropping off to less then 20 psi under hard load. Check fuel pressure regulator and change fuel filters, still same issue. Pull fuel sender out of tank(this was real easy because it was a dump body and I could just raise the bed to access the fuel tank) and find large amounts of rust forming in fuel tank. Blow out all fuel lines and replace fuel tank and truck ran great. Turns out Ford has issues with the cab and chassis fuel tanks doing this and is rather common.

Long story short, always make a through diagnosis before jumping to conclusions. In this case I assumed turbo issues like usual and was getting ready to rip the turbo apart. As one ol' timer always told me "never assume anything"!
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Old 11-24-2011, 03:21 AM
huj huj is offline
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2004 6.0 no turbo till 3000rpm up pipes cac boots all good no leaks no codes no restrictions good fuel and oil press newer turbo and injectors foun mass air flow sensor readind 190g\s instead of 18 -32 replaced maf sensor
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Old 11-24-2011, 05:08 PM
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Symptoms: Customer states truck "pops off"... Turns over fine but immediatley dies after initial fire

Fix: Tested with IDS and IPR valve not working properly. Replaced and back on the road.

I know alot of IDS ones but the symptoms that the RO states might be valuable to people that are having problems
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