06 F250 6.0L several problems - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:58 PM
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06 F250 6.0L several problems

Hello I just joined the forum and I'm seeking help on my 2006 6.0L F250 4dr 4x4 with 109k miles.

About a week and a half ago I noticed the truck was puffing black smoke on take off. Not a lot, just a lot more than usual. The truck also lacked power on take off, then when spooled up it quit smoking and stopped lagging. I trouble shot it to be the EGR valve. I took the EGR out and it was completely caked up, not wet. Coolant was just about a 1/4" low, but I didn't think nothing of it. I replaced it with a new OEM EGR valve and it fixed the problem. So I thought.

A few days ago I noticed the truck was black smoking on takeoff and lagging until spooled up again. Once I get going up to speed and spool up it quits. I also smelled diesel in the cab. I went ahead and drove it anyway to see if it got any worse.

Today I noticed a puddle on the ground underneath the front of the truck. I traced it back to the fuel filter housing on the front of the engine where the star/hex bolts are. When running its trickling out of there pretty good. Then I noticed it running out the back if the engine also, which I figure Diesel is just running down the top of the engine and out the back.

When trying to find this leak I noticed the coolant was gone from the reservoir. I eased open the cap on the reservoir and relieved the pressure and then seen the coolant at the very bottom of the reservoir. So it has coolant, it is just low.

No problems starting, no white smoke, no clattering, no loss of power on mid and top range, no smoke in mid to top range, Fuel mileage stayed the same from the beginning. No Towing in this time period.

Problems low coolant, leaking diesel out the fuel filter housing, black smoke on take off.

Any ideas? Do you think the problems are all related or separate cases of trouble?

I really like these trucks. I want to fix it and fix it right. That's why I came here. Thanks a lot!
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:01 PM
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Black smoke--- This is most likely lack of air and not to much fuel. It might be time to get the turbo charger cleaned. Other suspects are leaking exhaust supply to turbo, This is a simple DIY job.

Loosing coolant--- This sounds a lot like the EGR cooler is perforated. You need to look into this further. Might be time for a replacement or a delete. If your EGR cooler is bad then you need to take a hard look at the condition of the oil cooler as the failures go hand in hand. Also if you are burning the coolant then that is a prime way to rust up the unison ring in turbo and cause your first problem.

Leaking fuel---- Get the fuel regulator upgrade with the blue spring from ford and it should have what you need to fix the leak and the higher fuel pressure will keep your injectors happy for a long time.

Bottom line---- EGR cooler likely bad, oil cooler might be bad , Do a cooling system flush before the first two repairs. Time to clean turbo and ditch the Ford gold coolant.

ABOVE ALL ELSE ---- WELCOME TO POWERSTROKE.ORG---NOW YOU GOT PEOPLE !!
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Old 09-06-2011, 08:05 PM
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f250 issues

Hello there! The black smoke is probably from the varible vaines in the turbo housing gettin all caked up like your egr valve was. You may want to remove your turbo and clean the vaines. As far as the drip from the fuel filter bowl, it is the fuel pressure regulator gasket. I think the bolts are a T27. Might as well get the updated fuel pressure regulator kit and new fuel filters while your at it. As far as loosing coolant, it may be your egr cooler. I would rent or buy a cooling pressure testing kit and see if it holds pressure. If not you may hear it leak down thru the exhaust.
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Old 09-06-2011, 10:47 PM
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Here you go this is a good post by Band_Member on the fuel pressure reg spring install over at the Dieselstop
Fuel Regulator Upgrade w/ Pictures - Diesel Forum - TheDieselStop.com
Fuel pressure gauge is real important under 45lbs WOT kills injectors
Here is the turbo
DTS Articles - Turbocharger Reconditioning
Run cetane boost in the fuel and once a week drive it like you stole it.
and use only ford filters
Get some gauges like the Edge Insight CTS or ScanGaugeII
A coolant filter to remove the casting sand
http://www.dieselsite.com/2003-20076...waterpump.aspx
Hope this helps
2 stroker
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:10 PM
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Sorry for the late response. Thanks for the reply's and videos. When I bought the truck I went end to end and replaced all fluids and filters with Motorcraft brand products to make sure.

Well, I had a local shop fix the fuel pressure regulator leak and he said he ran all the scan tool tests on the truck and checked the movement of the turbo and all was within the correct range. It quit the smoking from a stop like I described above it ran great up until today. From a complete stop you could give it full throttle and it would barely move about a foot and from a roll it would lag bad then smoke out until it got moving good. It also set a P0404 code for EGR circuit range/performance.

I've heard of guys doing this so I thought it would be worth a shot. I unplugged the EGR valve and drove it for 10-15 minutes with absolutely no problems whatsoever. It ran better than ever! Being skeptical about this I pulled over in a parking lot and turned off the truck and plugged it back in. Started it up and could barely drive out of the parking lot. I circled around and the truck surged and barely would go smoking all the way. I turned it off and unplugged the EGR again. Started it up and away I went with no problems and running better than ever again.

Can I leave the truck like this? Do I need to do more for a complete delete or should I troubleshoot and find and fix the real problem behind this? I am going to do some more searching on this, I just couldn't believe it made such a night and day difference.
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:33 PM
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Ok after searching, the delete seems to be the way to go. Which delete kit with up pipe has the best track record and quality?
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:36 PM
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The EGR valve is probably coked so much that it is not operating as it is designed.
Running around with it unplugged has shown to cause cooling fan command issues with some tuning strategies (PCM programming from Ford).
Click on the following link to learn how to clean it.
DTS Articles - 6.0L EGR Valve Cleaning
Getting the valve out of the intake can be a bear at times. If you remove the two bolts and twist the valve to one side, you will be able to loop some tie wire through the holes. Tie one long piece of tie wire through the two holes and secure them together. Using a long handled tool, (such as a shovel or rake) use the alternator bracket for a leverage point and lift. It should pop right out.
It is best to leave it plugged in after cleaning, as long as it does not cause running issues. If it does continue to cause running issues, you should buy a new one.
Tousley Ford sells Factory Ford parts for 10% over their cost. Cheapest I have found.
800-328-9552
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:42 PM
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I put a new OEM EGR valve on the truck in September. I guess I can pull it out again and inspect it, I put only around 2000 miles since September though.
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Old 11-06-2011, 07:50 PM
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All of the egr cooler delete kits are pretty much the same.
I used about the cheapest kit out there and have 0 issues. It is a simple device.
As long as it comes with an up-pipe, its good. I paid $150 for mine. Found it on e-bay.

I would like to warn you that just deleting the egr cooler without knowing what condition your oil cooler is in is inviting bigger problems down the road. You should have a way to monitor your oil temperature and your coolant temperature.
To test the oil cooler, take your truck out on a long flat section of highway after getting it up to normal operating temps (coolant 190F give or take a few degrees). Set your cruise control to 55-65MPH, after a few minutes (and the temps have leveled out) check what the readings are. Should your oil temp exceed the coolant temp by 15F or more, it is time to replace the oil cooler.
If you were to ignore this (because you lack the proper gauges) your oil cooler could explode internally. This failure would fill your cooling system with an oil/coolant mix. If you didn't notice this, the truck will eventually shut down on its own, when the oil level falls enough to starve the high pressure oil system that runs your injectors. (this would take some doing and you would have to be deaf, blind and unable to smell)
Once the oil cooler explodes, you must replace the oil cooler and flush your cooling system. Once you finally get all the oil out of the cooling system, you would then have to replace all of the rubber components in the cooling system. All of the flushing activities after your repair would deposit any debris within your cooling system (and there will be plenty) into your brand new oil cooler. This will dramatically shorten its lifespan and you will be digging in to replace it again.
If you are monitoring those two readings, when you reach the 15F 'delta' is when you get all your parts together and perform a full cooling system flush. There is a document linked in my signature line that outlines the type of flush that should be done a few weeks prior to installing a new oil cooler (and new egr cooler, or deleting the egr cooler). In the flushing document, disregard the chapter about reverse flushing. That part of the document was written for those that, for one reason or another, were unable to flush their cooling system before replacing the oil cooler.
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Old 11-04-2013, 07:07 AM
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hello im new also and have a 6.0

hello im new also , I have a ford 6.0 just baught . runs great but shuts off and looses power while driving. ill have no gas in the pedal then battery light comes on. then dies. what could it be? I had my mechanic check ficm,ipc, replaced ipr. it seemed claugged with rubber debree mabie I think... and replaced alternator.. im not sure what else.. any ideas??
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