Need some help fast. So I put on a new air filter and took it down the roadf for a quick test drive. Pull out on highway and went WOT for a short run about 0-75 and let off. The truck acted normal for a split second then died. No start. Pulled codes and the only code was a ckp open code. The wierd thing is that I went trouble shooting and was looking at icp psi and it was 0-5 and volts stayed at .2. So I started looking at icp sensor and unplugged what I am thinking is icp sensor( passenger valve cover with above glow plug module) and psi went to around 650 while cranking but got a low voltage code for icp.
So I need help fast on what the problem could be and how to fix. Simple solution would be bad ckp sensor but nothing is simple on these trucks.
well with no crank signal the IPR will never be commanded closed and oil pressure won't build. if it actually has a crank sensor problem. a crank DTC can be set from excessive cranking
while cranking what is your IPR being commanded to while your ICP is staying at .2v
If you're commanding 85% IPR and ICP is not rising suspect a high pressure oil leak(namely the STC)
When you crank it what is the IPR % and ICP output? With the ICP sensor unpluged the PCM will assume a default value. If there realy is enough oil pressure to run the injectors it should start.
This sounds like a high pressure oil leak. A lot of STC’s fail when at very high pressures such as at WOT, I think you can see well over 3500 PSI at WOT. The new design is one part and basically can’t fail The other suspects are the IPR, loose wiring , IPR screen clogged, injector o-rings , standpipes and dummy plugs . What is the FICM voltage? Do you get oil and fuel up to the filer housing? Please see the no start check list in my signature. Also here is a link about ICP leaks.
From the article above I see 2 things that catch my eye. The first is the failed injector oring and the way the article said it failed. I have been having some injector troubles lately but it was only at start up it would lope(jumping around 100-200 rpm) for a few seconds then smooth out.
Ya, I know you said beans did the STC, but thats were my money is. Let us know what it turns out to be. Maybe start with an air test. Pull the IPR and if the screen has any metal flakes on it at all the HPOP is shot. GOOD LUCK
Would you recommend changing the ckp sensor or do you believe that was just from the long crank? Trying to get an idea on if I should worry with that sensor or tow it to my shop to start diagnosing and tearing apart.
Read the tech manual link in my sig for more pic's and such. The IPR is in the far rear of the engine on top of the HPOP. You will 1 3/8 socket thats cut out or a crows foot to get it out with out pulling the turbo. I won't worry about the CKP sensor yet. You really need to do an air test and find a way to get IPR % along with ICP. values. Here is a quote from one of my other posts to give you an idea of normal values.
Q: What are normal ICP and IPR values with 15w 40 oil ?
A: Cold engine low idle ICP = 806psi IPR 29%
A: Cold engine high idle ICP= 960psi IPR 33%
A: Warm engine low idle ICP= 585psi IPR 24%
A: Warm engine high idle ICP= 735psi IPR 28%
A: If your engine requires a high IRP percentage to get the same or lower ICP you might have an internal high pressure oil leak .
I had already gotten the ckp sensor but parts guy is pretty cool and said he doesn't sell many and that if wasn't right just bring it back.
I looked this afternoon and couldn't find the sensor much less change it. What all has to be removed to change it? I am thinking about stopping by ford place and letting them run it on computer and see what all they say. I have to pass by there on way to my shop anyway.
I need some insight I got ahead of myself alittle and went ahead and started tearing down to replace my oil cooler since I knew it was needing replaced but I forgot to do the air test before I started. Is that test still valid or will I need to put the oil cooler and filter setup back on then do the test?
The good news is I am waiting on a few parts from ford to get here then I will take the hpop out to see if the stc blew apart first and change it if its not the updated one.
The more I get into this the more I get pissed not because of having to work on it but that I am constantly finding bolts that were not tightened by beans diesel performance. I found a few intake bolts less than finger tight and the same with with a oil cooler bolt, some other miscellaneous bolts were also loose but then there were some bolts that were stripped and they put the stripped bolts back in.
Shoddy mechanic work at best IMO. Also the oil cooler that I removed had been dropped and had one corner of it bent pretty noticeable. might not have affected the cooler but it sure doesnt look good when your shop will put something like that in a truck instead of putting in a new cooler.
BTW it was less than 10k miles ago when beans worked on it. I had problems with oil cooler from the time of pickup.
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