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post #1 of 5 Old 08-22-2011, 10:18 AM Thread Starter
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2005 that over heated

Hi Guys
I am fairly new to the forum so thanks in advance. Here is my possible problem, when I was pulling my 8000 lb trailer two weeks ago in I might ad 104 deg wether up a hill about 1/2 mile long {also had the ac on} my fan kicked on like normal but did not turn off after 15 to 30 seconds like usaul that is when my bell whent off to check guages and when I looked just in time to see my temp go all the way up to the peg. I pulled right over within 100 feet and by thee time I put it in park it droped like a rock to normal. I did pop the hood to check it out and everything looked fine with no leaks just a very hot expansion bottle. So I turned off the AC and continued on my trip fore about 300 miles with no problem. My question is is there a problem like a thermostat or worse, or was it because I was runing with the ac on in 104 temp, outside.I have not had any issues since and would like to keep it that way I realy do not like to over heat .Any help please
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post #2 of 5 Old 08-22-2011, 10:30 AM
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It's a difficult question to answer because the dash gauge isn't the best indicator of temperatures so you don't know what the real temps are. If you're pulling trailers (or even if you're not) get some gauges to determine your actual temperatures then from there you can determine if there's issues with the engine.

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post #3 of 5 Old 08-22-2011, 10:58 AM Thread Starter
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2005 that over heated

Thanks for the reply. I know that factory guages are junk but there was no mistake that the motor was real hot ,it was actualy boiling in the plastic bottle. I was just wondering that if it only did it that one time could it have been a stuck thermostat, because of how fast the temp droped when I pulled over, I mean it did not gradualy drop IT DROPED TO NORMAL FAST
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post #4 of 5 Old 08-22-2011, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpatton View Post
Thanks for the reply. I know that factory guages are junk but there was no mistake that the motor was real hot ,it was actualy boiling in the plastic bottle. I was just wondering that if it only did it that one time could it have been a stuck thermostat, because of how fast the temp droped when I pulled over, I mean it did not gradualy drop IT DROPED TO NORMAL FAST
A stock Ford t/stat most of the time go bad stuck open this sounds more like a cooler problem. Need gauges ASAP this will tell you alot about your motor, so being new here is a quick rundown
There are a few things wrong with the 6.0 (1)When the motor was casted they did not get cleaned or get washed out so they never remove all the casting sand in the motors some they did some they did not. (2)The Ford Gold Cxxp coolant is the other thing this coolant is only good for max 30-40K then it needs to be flushed and it is a real killer if you pull because of the heat and the silicates drop out quicker so ELC coolant and a coolant filter are a must so here you go!!!! 1. oil by-pass to clean the oil the stock filter (use only Ford Filters) cleans the oil to 20 microns the by pass cleans to 2 microns these injectors run in oil and try and use Syn oil but you must change at 5k because of the shear of the oil by the injectors and remember these motors push 15 to 18 gallons of oil a minute and if you are in the colder country use a 5w40 and if you are in the warm country use a 15w40. 2 Gauges-- I like the Edge Insight, will give you a lot of information a great tool you need to know your temps, i'm running EOT-ECT-EGT-Trans no more than 15* difference in the ECT-EOT i think 10* your coolers are starting to get plugged. 3. Fuel pressure gauge under 45lbs kills injectors and over 70 may blow injector o-rings and if you are under 45lbs Ford has a new reg kit to up the pressure this is a must and run a cetane boost in the fuel to clean the turbo and EGR valve and about every week drive it like you stole it after it warms up, that takes about 20-30 minutes of driving to get the heads warmed up or get the oil to around 185-190* and never go over 28lbs of boost or you may stretch the head bolts, use only Ford or Racor fuel filter change at 15k and if you pull change at 10k 4. Coolant filter a must to remove the casting sand and all the other carp in the coolant to try and keep the coolers clean. 5. ELC coolant change, to remove the Ford Gold Crap coolant the number one reason these coolers fail, the coolant gets to hot (caused by the EGR cooler HOT gases dumping back in) then the silicates drop out turning into a goo slim and plugs the coolers, the first in line to plug is the oil cooler but the EGR cooler is the first to go because of the heat that is why if you do not have to go through DEQ testing a EGR delete is a good move.
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post #5 of 5 Old 08-23-2011, 05:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2 stroker View Post
A stock Ford t/stat most of the time go bad stuck open this sounds more like a cooler problem. Need gauges ASAP this will tell you alot about your motor, so being new here is a quick rundown
There are a few things wrong with the 6.0 (1)When the motor was casted they did not get cleaned or get washed out so they never remove all the casting sand in the motors some they did some they did not. (2)The Ford Gold Cxxp coolant is the other thing this coolant is only good for max 30-40K then it needs to be flushed and it is a real killer if you pull because of the heat and the silicates drop out quicker so ELC coolant and a coolant filter are a must so here you go!!!! 1. oil by-pass to clean the oil the stock filter (use only Ford Filters) cleans the oil to 20 microns the by pass cleans to 2 microns these injectors run in oil and try and use Syn oil but you must change at 5k because of the shear of the oil by the injectors and remember these motors push 15 to 18 gallons of oil a minute and if you are in the colder country use a 5w40 and if you are in the warm country use a 15w40. 2 Gauges-- I like the Edge Insight, will give you a lot of information a great tool you need to know your temps, i'm running EOT-ECT-EGT-Trans no more than 15* difference in the ECT-EOT i think 10* your coolers are starting to get plugged. 3. Fuel pressure gauge under 45lbs kills injectors and over 70 may blow injector o-rings and if you are under 45lbs Ford has a new reg kit to up the pressure this is a must and run a cetane boost in the fuel to clean the turbo and EGR valve and about every week drive it like you stole it after it warms up, that takes about 20-30 minutes of driving to get the heads warmed up or get the oil to around 185-190* and never go over 28lbs of boost or you may stretch the head bolts, use only Ford or Racor fuel filter change at 15k and if you pull change at 10k 4. Coolant filter a must to remove the casting sand and all the other carp in the coolant to try and keep the coolers clean. 5. ELC coolant change, to remove the Ford Gold Crap coolant the number one reason these coolers fail, the coolant gets to hot (caused by the EGR cooler HOT gases dumping back in) then the silicates drop out turning into a goo slim and plugs the coolers, the first in line to plug is the oil cooler but the EGR cooler is the first to go because of the heat that is why if you do not have to go through DEQ testing a EGR delete is a good move.
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