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Old 08-15-2011, 08:08 PM
DMc DMc is offline
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6.0 Liter Parts List

Hey all-

New to the org and have a couple of questions. I have an early 04 with 90,000 miles. Had her since she was a pup and never have had a lick of trouble but I'm starting to get EOT/ECT deltas over 15 degrees once in a while on flat roads with the cruise set at 65. I'm getting ready to do some preventive work on the truck and just wanted to be sure I've got everything down since I'll have a tough time getting to the parts store once the wrenches start flying. I want to flush the cooling system, install a coolant filter, rebuild the oil cooler, upgrade the fuel pressure regulator and refill with ELC. I thought about the EGR cooler but it's the round version and I can't see where replacing it with the Bullet Proof product will gain me much. It has to stay in place so I can get through my local emissions testing. Anyway, here's what I've got down;

4 gallons EC-1 ELC concentrate
1 gallon Restore
1 gallon Restore +
1 pallet distilled water (well, maybe not quite that much but you get the idea)
Deisel Site filter kit
3C3Z-6A642-CA Oil Cooler Kit
3C3Z-9433-BH Gasket/O-Ring Kit
3C3Z-9T517-AG Blue spring kit
3C3Z-8575-AA Thermostat, Housing & O-Ring
3C3Z-9T516-A Turbo Oil Feed Line (the drain tube was upgraded under warranty when the turbo was replaced in 09)

Does this sound like a complete list? I'd hate to get halfway through and discover I need another gasket or O-ring.

Thanks for any and all thoughts!!!
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Old 08-16-2011, 03:41 AM
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I don't know if I would chance the EGR cooler. Even if you replace it with stock it would at least give you peace of mind that it won't fail. Maybe that is just me.

3C3Z-8575-AA is just the thermostat with a new housing o-ring, no new housing. You will not need it anyway.
Push the crossbar down and twist, the thermostat will come out of the housing.
How about adding a new oil filter and fuel filters??

Everything else you have listed will have you covered through the repair.

I would like to stress some steps that ,if ignored, will come back and bite you in the behind if ignored. Preclean around the intake manifold, especially where it meets the heads. You seriously do not want something falling into the intake ports when you remove the intake. That would really ruin your week.

Stop at every step and clean the top of the engine as you disassemble. If there is anything I have learned when working on this engine is that patience and cleanliness pay huge dividends. I think I spent as much time cleaning than I did actually working on the engine.

Leave the old screen under the oil cooler in place when (if) you clean the cavity, or place something over the reservoir. You do not want even just a spec of dirt to fall into the area under it. If you decide to clean under that screen, you must be absolutely, positively surgically clean. No dust, lint, grain of sand, hair, absolutely nothing left behind. Think of that area as open heart surgery on your truck, because it essentially is. If you miss something, your IPR valve will catch it. If the IPR valve catches it, you will have to tear back into the truck to replace the IPR, or at a minimum replace the screen and o-rings on the end of it.

Good luck

EDIT: I forgot to mention that once you have completed the repair, pour a few quarts of oil into the oil filter housing before replacing the oil filter. It will drain slow, but some of that oil will refill the cavity under the oil cooler. That will make the first start easier.

Last edited by NYC F-350; 08-16-2011 at 03:45 AM.
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Old 08-16-2011, 03:59 PM
DMc DMc is offline
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Thanks NYC!

I hadn't read much chatter about the round EGR cooler being a problem. Have some of them gone south and I just haven't seen them written about? It's the perfect time to replace it but I figured why spend the dough if the round one is far superior to the square one in the first place? Any insight you can share on the robustness (or lack thereof) of the round version will help me make up my mind.

Good catch on the thermostat housing. I'll be changing the oil and filter but the fuel filters were just replaced 2000 miles ago and those things aren't cheap so I'll wait a while on that one.

I'm with you on the cleaning side so thanks for the tips. Figured I'd clean it out real well and then vacuum out any lint that might be left behind by the rags.

Oh, and thanks for the oil filling tip. I'm likely to become deeply depressed if the truck won't start when I'm done so you just saved me some prescription drug costs!
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Old 08-16-2011, 04:09 PM
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Oh, don't get me wrong, they ARE a much better piece than the later years. That is a given.
They do, however, occasionally fail. Certainly nowhere near as frequent when compared to the other years, due to the design of the internals.
Why they chose to change those internals for the later years is beyond me.
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Old 08-16-2011, 06:00 PM
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Hmmmmm..... If you're aware of some failures in the round style I'll defer to your wisdom (I guess that makes me COL Klink to your SGT Schultz) and replace it. I too was wondering why it changed after being in service for only a short time. I figured maybe it had to do with surface area inside the cooler body and they might have been looking for better heat transfer but that's just me taking a left turn onto Speculation Ave. It would be interesting to know the difference in EGT taken post-cooler on a round one vs. a square one assuming both had an unobstructed supply of coolant.

BTW, I see by your signature you've mod'd your CCV. Do you mind if I ask if you recirculated it back to the intake or are you venting it to the atmosphere? I want to do that while I've got it apart. Seems like recirculating it would certainly lessen the oil going through the turbo but you'd think there'd still be some getting through.

Thanks a bunch!!!
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Old 08-16-2011, 06:36 PM
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My CCV consists of turning that elbow around, attaching about 5 feet of hose and zip-tying the hose to the frame by the front tire on the drivers side. Vented to atmosphere, just like the International VT365. If you do it this way, make real sure that there are no dips in the hose. It must be straight to drain properly. If there are dips, moisture could collect there in the winter and slowly choke off the vent. That would turn the engine into an oil fountain.
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