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  #1  
Old 07-29-2011, 01:51 PM
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Question 2006 6.0 liter hot start problems

I have a 2006 F-250 with a 6.0 liter powerstroke. After running a few minutes, say to the store or gas station, and shutting it off it will not restart until it cools down. Sometimes starts at half throttle but no throttle response, mash or pump throttle and nothing happens. Also losing 5 - 8 mpg. Tested FICM 7-8 times after local repair shop pulled up code PO611, all readings 46-48v. Pulled ICP connector, started engine and reconnected ICP. Problem apparently solved, truck starts hot, runs like mad, mpg's picking up. What's up? Is the ICP sensor bad and would this cause a FICM Code?
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  #2  
Old 07-30-2011, 07:55 AM
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Question

I forgot to add some symptoms that were present before I started troubleshooting: severe "turbo lag" and surging - rev up at stoplight, kinda scary.
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Old 07-30-2011, 09:46 AM
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The easiest and cheapest thing to replace in the high pressure oil system is the ICP sensor. If unplugging it solves the problem, replace it and thank the powerstroke gods that the sensor was the only thing wrong.

Stabbing the skinny pedal to the floor or pumping it will have no effect whatsoever in starting the truck. It is a "fly by wire" system. The PCM uses the 3 sensors in the throttle assembly to determine the injector pulse when the truck is running and not when starting.
What MIGHT be happening is that your ICP is not reporting the oil pressure reading correctly to the PCM. If that pressure is not at least 500psi, the injectors will not fire.
What might also be happening is that the fluctuations in the ICP sensor are actually pressure fluctuations within the oil rails themselves. If this is the case, you would have two routes to choose from. 1 is replace the three well known failure points in the high pressure oil system given the year of manufacture of your truck. Two of the three are under the valve covers and are easily accessible. Those are the standpipes and dummy plugs. The standpipes deliver the high pressure oil from the branch tubes to the oil rails on top of the injectors. The other is the STC (snap to connect) fitting that is installed on the High Pressure Oil Pump (HPOP). It connects the pump to the branch tubes, and over time this fitting basically just wears out. The HPOP is under a cover at the rear of the engine below and behind the turbo. If you look in from the drivers side of the truck, you will see the top of the HPOP sticking out of the cover and has the IPR (injection pressure regulator) screwed into it.
You choice would depend on whether or not you will be doing the repair yourself or paying a mechanic to do it for you, but start with the ICP replacement first. If the ICP fixes the problem, just keep the rest of this post in mind when (not if) this occurs again.
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Old 07-30-2011, 01:27 PM
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Red face

Thanks for the info NYC! I was stuck on where to go next. If it makes any difference, I notice no oil leaks in the areas mentioned, I'm leaning toward the sensor as the culprit and will clean and reinstall it again, see what happens. Once again, you the greatest!
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Old 07-30-2011, 02:08 PM
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If there is a high pressure oil leak, you will never see it from the outside of the engine. All the components that leak, will bleed oil internally to the engine and the oil will just return to the oil pan.
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Old 07-30-2011, 07:43 PM
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BTW thanks for clearing up this for me on another thread. I thought the fitting on the back of the oil pump had a line that was external. I did some research and found the era of my ways. Thanks goodness Im a much better electrician than deisel mechanic. I make my living as a maintenance electrician in a manfacturing plant. We do a lot of crossing with other crafts - tool and die, machinest, welders, hydralics, etc.... All of the motors I work on are either electrical or hydralic and a few air motors. We do have a couple of diesel motors out here. One in perticular is on the fire pumps. This thing is designed to crank cold and instantly go to screaming rpm. This has to be tested weekly. Its amazing how it has held up under those conditions. Sorry I didn't mean to hyjack this thread. Back to solving the hot start problems.
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Old 07-31-2011, 09:27 AM
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NYC thanks for the heads up. I misread another post about the STC and did not realize it was internal. I don't wanna go there or the standpipes and dummy plugs. Sounds like a real pain in the
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:07 PM
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I have a problem with my 2007 6.0.. I was having the notourious hot start problem. Thinking it was the STC fitting, my mechanic tore into it. When he got in there the STC fitting had already been replaced. We put in a new HPOP, and did all the rebuilds on the seals. I stilllll have the problem. (dumby plugs not replaced because I would only get low oil psi every once in a while.. It can't be that then can it? 9/10 times I get 580 psi the other one I'd get 365) Before we did all this, as soon as the oil needle would go up, it'd fire. Now, even when the needle goes up, nothing. (Sometimes) I had my batteries tested and they are 65% charge and 80% charge but tested 'good'. I'm running 15-40 delo oil in it. It does have fram filters though. When it does start normal, it takes 3-4 seconds warm and 5-8 seconds cold. ICP changed out too, brand new, and fuel regulator rebuilt also cuz it was leaking raw diesel. I'm stumped. We were getting consistant oil pressures (580) before we did all the work on it. Except for the 1 out of 10 times it had the problem, we'd get 350 psi. Current temp is 80-100. Oil changed 1,500 miles ago, as well as the fuel filters. When it does finally turn over after minutes of cranking (30 second tries) it takes 4-5 seconds when the motor starts to turn over to turn on. When I am cranking it warm I get 125 cranking rpms. It runs perfectly normal. Before I replaced the HPOP though it woulnd't blow smoke for nothing. Now, it will a litttle bit but enough I can see out my mirror and that's only when floored. 149,000 miles... Turbo also seems to whistle more now. I'm stuck. What do I do next.. To FIX it?
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:19 AM
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Its the dummy plugs! had the same problem on my 2006 f350 6.0

the seals go bad it was like 80 bucks for 2 new ones

there inside your valve covers, quick and easy fix!
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Old 10-12-2012, 08:31 AM
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Do I need to do the standpipes also? How do I get the passenger side valve cover off? Seems like there's a ton of junk in the way of some nuts to where it can't come out?
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