Long cranks before fire.

[etnies86]

So I got a few questions
My 07 f350 always cranks longer, longer than any of the work trucks. I would say 3-5 seconds most days till it fires every now and then it cranks for 15-30 thats once in a while 70 percent of the time 3-5 seconds I had to get my alarm starter turned up so it cranked longer just so it would fire the dam thing.
I have been told control plug module, HPOP, Leaking injector, needs to be reflashed, glow plug, wrong oil, So my question is before I go spend 5 grand and then figure out it was the last thing on the list of possiblities I would rather nail it the first time.
So

How do you tell if its the HPOP before you rip it all down....and the same goes for every other "might be's" or does it just needs a re flash?

Someone help
Its kinda embarrassing when your truck sits and cranks for a minuite

2007 f350 bone stock

[etnies86]

also 4 weeks ago it went through a 1200 inspection checking everything no codes mentioned.
Will an auto value code scanner scan hard codes or just soft?

[NYC F-350]

If you could, go out and pop the hood. Check the label on the passenger side valve cover. Is it an 06 or an 07 engine?
Is it impossible to restart after it is hot?
Does it do this hot and cold starts?
Are there any different circumstances when the truck starts fine versus when it does not?
As far as the code scanner, I am not familiar with what they use, so I can not answer that other than to say that not all scanners will get all the codes.

[etnies86]

It does this weather hot or code. the 30 second and more cranks are while hot
and 2006 it says

[NYC F-350]

Here is an off the wall question: Do you park the truck on an incline?
Nose up or down?

[etnies86]

I use to front end high now my new house its flat same result actually if I park with the nose down I think it is it cranks for maybe 7-10 instead of 3-5

[NYC F-350]

Ok, while that may have seemed like a strange question, it was getting to something, which apparently isn't the issue.

Here is the first thing to do.
Remove the batteries and run them down to the autoparts store to have them load tested. Yes, even if they are only 6 months old. Replace both batteries if either one tests marginally or fail.

Second, place the batteries on a battery charger. Ensure they have 100% charge for the test you will do next. Then reinstall your batteries.

What those two steps do is to eliminate bad battery connections and marginal batteries giving you a bad reading for the FICM. Batteries are cheaper than a FICM and you would rather replace those than it.

The last step in this process is to actually test the FICM. Here are specific written directions on how to do this. TESTING the FICM Truck has to be cold, batteries charged to get the best possible results.
The directions in that link will tell you what to look for.

[etnies86]

see I youtubed bad ficm and my truck sounds nothing like that no problems just that long crank nothing else runs like a beaut.
But I will go throw the charger on see my buddie has a 2005 f350 and his batteries are really bad and it still doesnt take as long as mine my batter light comes on when the truck decides to do the 30 second crank.

[NYC F-350]

A bad FICM does not give a sound or run a certain way, bad injectors do. The FICM just makes it a real bytch to start.

[etnies86]

oh ok well plugged in the battery charger and it said one was 100% the other 86%