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Old 07-04-2011, 08:34 PM
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Low battery = Low FICM Voltage?

After putting on a DIY coolant filter, I set to programming the ScanGauge 2 with the 6.0 X-gauges.

I checked the FICM voltage at KO, engine cold and was getting 48V. However, when I start the engine, the voltage drops to the 30s and eventually comes up to the 45 range. One thing that I also noticed is the voltage reading for the truck (on the scangauge) is about 12.5V when running. I have only owned the truck for a month or so, but the batteries look like they are pretty new (appear to be a matched set on Interstates).

Will low battery voltage cause low FICM voltage? or do I have both a FICM problem as well as a failing alternator?

Thanks in advance.

MikeB
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Old 07-04-2011, 08:46 PM
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The FICM multiplies the battery voltage by 4x. Low batteries WILL cause your FICM voltage to read low, and 12.5 volts is low with the vehicle running. What is the FICM main power/logic voltage?
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Old 07-05-2011, 06:29 AM
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My alternator at idle will put out right at 13.0 volts with my AC cranked. Just remember that your glow plugs will still be active for about 60-90 seconds after you start your engine. During that time, my voltage is roughly 11.5 volts. Your alternator MIGHT be getting a bit old and not performing well, but it should be plenty for your FICM to maintain 48v. Your FICM needs to be repaired.
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Old 07-06-2011, 08:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evil Eye View Post
My alternator at idle will put out right at 13.0 volts with my AC cranked. Just remember that your glow plugs will still be active for about 60-90 seconds after you start your engine. During that time, my voltage is roughly 11.5 volts. Your alternator MIGHT be getting a bit old and not performing well, but it should be plenty for your FICM to maintain 48v. Your FICM needs to be repaired.
Exactly. Voltage-wise my truck does the exact same at startup, though my FICM is on it's way out.
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Old 07-07-2011, 07:56 AM
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While swapping out the tranny fluid/filters/etc... I put the batteries on a charger and cleaned up the connections.

Once I was finished, I took the vehicle out for a drive. Stats on the FICM voltages:

At key on engine off: vehicle = 12.5 V, FVP,FLP = 12.5V, FMP = 48V
After a few minutes of idling: vehicle = 13.5V, FLP.FVP = 13 - 13.5 V, FMP = 30V
I did notice after driving quite a while the FMP would come up to the mid 40s, even up to 48V. However, it appears to drop off when you get into the throttle. Guess this eans new FICM in my future

Is the upgraded 58V FICM worth it? What is the benefit if you are using the truck for pretty limited camper towing duty?

Thanks to all for your replies...

MikeB
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Old 07-07-2011, 11:03 AM
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Yes, get a 58v FICM upgrade.
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Old 07-09-2011, 06:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PGreenSVT View Post
Yes, get a 58v FICM upgrade.
The question above is why get the 58V FICM upgrade?
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Old 07-09-2011, 06:31 AM
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The question above is why get the 58V FICM upgrade?
The spool valves tend to stick when the sooty oil doesn't get changed very often and/or proper maintenance isn't performed. Increasing the voltage from 48V to 58V provides just enough extra voltage to help eliminate some of this injector stiction that occurs over time. It also helps to move the valve quicker therefore giving you a slight increase in performance as well.
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Old 07-09-2011, 06:33 AM
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I was in the exact same situation about a month ago... bad FICM. I went with Swamps 58 volt and everything's back to normal. I did a lot of research prior to going with the 58 volt and the conclusion is that you should have zero problems towing your camper with the upgraded module.
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Old 07-09-2011, 07:59 AM
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Thanks to all for the replies. I have been keeping a closer eye on the voltage, and it appears to reach up to 48V part of the time. Is there any risk if I wait until the FICM really bombs out? Will it damage the injectors? Right now I do not see any driveability issues with the vehicle.

Thanks again for all the replies.

MikeB
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