Hot start & Stalling Issue. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 12-22-2010, 12:53 PM Thread Starter
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Hot start & Stalling Issue.

Hey guys ive been having this problem for some time and now im fed up so i started to tear into my truck this week.

some of my problems are if i let the truck get warm. Like if i go for a 10-15min drive and stop at wally world when i come usually between 10-30Min it wont start just keeps cranking. if it sits long enough for engine to cool down it will fire right up like nothing is wrong. Also sometimes after its warm if i stop at a light it will lurch lightly and then die. which then it wont restart for atleast an hour. any other ideas this is what ive done so far......

Down tubes and the dummy plugs look good with good o-rings
And my only question is does this look like a late 03-early 04 HPOP cause thats what im thinkin. and if it is that would mean i dont have the STC fitting correct??

i havnt pulled the HPOP out of the truck yet but am about to so i can check the "Non Servisable plug" for a leak.
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post #2 of 11 Old 12-22-2010, 12:58 PM Thread Starter
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just a couple more pics.... sorry bout the first two images they were from my phone the others were with my camera
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post #3 of 11 Old 12-22-2010, 03:24 PM Thread Starter
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heres the HPOP the ball plug is still there. but the fitting that goes to the back of the middle of the valley is really loose feeling. i can move it around with out a problem and it moves in and out about a 1/16-1/8 inch. is this normal or should it be nice and solid? the fitting in question is inside the yellow box in the pic.
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post #4 of 11 Old 12-22-2010, 06:43 PM
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The fitting in the yellow box is your STC fitting

Where is the bottom half of your down tubes? If they are still in the engine you need to remove those too.

2004 F-250 CC Lariat FX4, 285/75/16 Goodyear Wrangler Dura Trac's, Full EGR Delete, ARP headstuds, Swamp's 58V FICM, SCT Livewire with Custom Tunes by Innovative Diesel and Quick Tricks Automotive, 4 inch stainless straight piped exhaust, High Idle Mod, Smoke Switch, more mods to come.

Last edited by BirddogTN; 12-22-2010 at 06:47 PM.
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post #5 of 11 Old 12-22-2010, 07:10 PM
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I had a similar problem with my '05, wouldn't start after the engine had warmed up. Many shops couldn't diagnose it, until I took it in to the dealership. They replaced the engine branch connector and the HPOP. The branch connector, which runs the oil from your HPOP to the oil rails, was broken and leaking oil, which didn't allow the injectors enough oil pressure to fire up the engine. After these parts were replaced, I never had that problem again.
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post #6 of 11 Old 12-22-2010, 10:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BirddogTN View Post
The fitting in the yellow box is your STC fitting

Where is the bottom half of your down tubes? If they are still in the engine you need to remove those too.
thats what i was thinking just wasnt sure on the amount of play in the fitting. seems kinda loose to me.

ya the rest are still in the engine, havnt pulled to whole oil rail off yet just wanted to check those first.

Ive already spent $5000 at the dealership to replace HG's, studs, and injectors. everything was good for about 2months and then the hot start came back. so kinda to broke for the shop. My friend is the diesel tech there and had him come over with the computer and run the test and it showed everything good except injector #7 malifunction. and Glow Plug Module was bad. so had him ride with me and went for a ride to walmart turned around and came home, shut her down and tried to start and it would just crank, let it set for 1hr and came back and she fired up just fine. he said i had a hot soak issue and that when either the STC fitting or the oil rail o-rings got hot from the oil they wouldn't hold pressure and volla no start.
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post #7 of 11 Old 12-23-2010, 06:28 AM
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I have a few questions.

(1) Do you have the early design oil rails as illustrated in the attached files below, or the newer design?

(2) Is your IPR and ICP both on the rear of the HPOP cover?

(3) Did you remove your IPR and inspect the screen and poppet to insure it wasn't damaged or stuck open? (I also had work done to my truck by a poor dealership that left too much debris and lint from shop rags and the teardown that it damaged the screen, thus the debris entered the IPR and it stuck in the open position)

(4) How did the screen in the HPOP supply valley (under your oil cooler) look? Was it damaged? (or completely left out by the dealership like mine was) If so it could have let debris by and into your HPOP and ruined it.

Unforutnately, now that you have it all apart and didn't test the system with shop air to find your leak, your only shot at fixing this issue is to replace all o-rings in the HPOP supply system, the IPR and ICP, both stand pipes and your HPOP and hope for the best. (assuming that the non-replaceable o-rings in the top of your injectors and your branch tubes from the HPOP are in good shape and not leaking past at those points).

If it were me, I'd put it back together and apply shop air to the HPOP supply system and find my leak! You will need a fitting to supply shop air and a way to command the IPR closed (or a dummy plug to block it and it's oil return passage off to perform the air test)

I wish you the best of luck. I have "been there and done that".
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post #8 of 11 Old 12-23-2010, 08:55 PM
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you're friend that works at the dealership should have the ford ids program, with this you can command the ipr valve open and closed while applying shop air to the high pressure oil system, if you hear an audible change in the sound of the air through the oil system you know it's working. now is a good time to reassemble and check for air leaks, don't be fooled by thinkin you may have an high pressure leak either, icp sensors when hot like to fail also, if you find you dont have a high pressure oil leak, run it and duplicate the concern, when it shows it's face disconnect you're icp sensor and see if it starts. if it does, replace it.Possible Causes:
Low base engine oil pressure or level
ICP system leak
High pressure oil branch tube adapter leak
Damaged discharge tube
Damaged high pressure oil branch tube
Leaking high pressure tube assembly male and female fitting
Damaged stand-pipe or oil supply tube
Damaged or missing stand-pipe O-ring
Damaged or missing oil supply tube O-ring
Damaged high pressure oil rail plug
Damaged or missing high pressure oil rail plug O-ring
Damaged or missing O-ring between discharge tube and high pressure pump
Damaged or missing discharge tube O-ring that fits inside high pressure pump cover
Damaged or missing high pressure pump inlet O-ring
Damaged or missing O-ring between high pressure oil rail and the injector
IPR failure
Damaged high pressure pump
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post #9 of 11 Old 12-24-2010, 10:08 AM
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critters, I am right there with you. Perhaps you can help me a bit, too. To pull the dummy plugs from the oil rail, was it necessary to remove the intake manifold, or could you just remove the elements over the valve covers to get to the rail? The down tubes mentioned here - are those on the oil rail or off the bottom of the hpop? Also, could anyone tell me how I can diagnose whether there is a leak in the branch supply lines? I've already removed my hpop - can I hook up a compressor to the branch supply connection to pressurize? ugh.
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post #10 of 11 Old 12-24-2010, 01:08 PM Thread Starter
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no to remove the dummy plug and down tubes all i had to do was remove the valve covers. but the passenger one is a PITA. the easiest way is to remove the wheel well and reach the bottom two cover bolts and the back ones. the down tubes are in the back plug it is a two piece design.
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