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  #1  
Old 12-17-2010, 10:06 PM
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The White Snake

First post from a Newb in love with this site.

I have a 2004 F350 with the 6.0 - about 130,000 miles.

My egr valve went and I replaced it. (Diagnosed that problem and how to change it right here on Powerstroke!) Incidentally no white residue or coolant at that time, just tons of soot from too much idling.

All was well until about three weeks ago - started getting white smoke and smelling some coolant.

Noticed the coolant supply tank was about an inch low - next day it was an inch lower. Third day it emptied out. Refilled it - so I could run it onto a flatbed to bring home. Been parked since.

I know - I know...(learned here I should have parked it asap at the first sign of the snake).

Anyways - I ordered a Sinister delete kit and have it ready to install.

It bears mentioning that at no time did I notice any coolant leaks under the truck - and I would have - lots of snow here.

So I am wondering - am I safe to install my delete kit and keep on trucking - or are there going to be other demons to contend with - such as shot head gaskets?

As I said - no signs of a leak under the truck - idling or parked for the night. Just the white snake and the smell of coolant (I believe coming from the exhaust).

Need help and opinions please - this is my work truck - bread and butter for the family.

Thanks

Last edited by mandaree36; 12-17-2010 at 10:12 PM.
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  #2  
Old 12-18-2010, 08:43 AM
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Welcome to the forum
The number 1 reason the EGR cooler goes out is the oil cooler get plugged the coolent temps get to high then the EGR cooler goes because of the high heat so it is a must to change the oil cooler the only way you can tell is something like the edge insight to check temps the max is 15* i think 10* the coolers are starting to get plugged.
2 stroker
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Old 12-18-2010, 09:45 AM
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I see.

I was hoping it was because a friend of mine was driving my truck to work - and during the week he had it the egr valve went. He kept running it right through periods of the smoke, chugging conditions until the valve was so bad it was just weak and smokey..

He said he thought it was bad fuel as it would come out of it, then do it again later...

I changed the EGR valve and all was well for about a week...then the white smoke came.

I thought perhaps all the soot plugged the egr cooler - causing it to dump into the exhaust.
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Old 12-18-2010, 01:54 PM
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Oh and I should add that the cab coolant temp gauge has been low since day one.

The truck has operated at the lowest tick of the operating temp gauge since I got it, that did not change leading up to this - or even during it.

I guess that brings me to one question:

Is it possible then that the sheer amount of soot from the plugged EGR valve caused the EGR cooler failure/dump into the exhaust?
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Old 12-18-2010, 02:15 PM
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The factory temp gauge is full of crap, it doesn't show a problem until it's too late. My EGR cooler went the other day, for the second time. So I need to do a bulletproof egr cooler since have to smog this thing.
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Old 12-18-2010, 07:08 PM
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two stroker is correct on you;re oil cooler possibly being plugged and wiping out you're egr cooler, you dont have to have a edge insight to monitor the eot and ect though, with fords new pcm and ficm calibration files it monitiors the eot and ect for you,(you will have to go to the dealer or a shop that has an ids program and get a reflash) when they are out of spec it will turn on the wrench light indicating a problem.You will not see a sign of leak from under the truck, it will be coming out the tailpipe. Otc makes a block off kit for the egr cooler, pressure it up put it in a bucket of water and see if it leaks. you should get a steady stream of bubbles if it is, if no leak, pull the heads and do the stud kit. delete the egr cooler regardless
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Old 12-18-2010, 07:24 PM
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Well I am going to have to break down and take it to a Ford dealer.

I have it a small shop right now and the mechanic there is supposed to install the delete kit.

Should I have the delete kit installed now or have it sent in to a dealership to have the oil cooler addressed first?

Will a Ford shop work on a truck with a delete kit in it?

I would like to get this addressed but dont want any problems from the dealership in not wanting to work on it if modified. The shop I have it at now is not exactly impressing me - the mechanic who was to do the delete left for two weeks....and the one on duty says it looks to complicated to put in. The original Mech will be in monday - and supposedly start on it.

Which reminds me...does anyone know of a reputable diesel shop in western ND that would handle the delete if these guys back out - which just may happen monday?

Sorry for all the Q's.

Last edited by mandaree36; 12-18-2010 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 12-18-2010, 09:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mandaree36 View Post
Well I am going to have to break down and take it to a Ford dealer.

I have it a small shop right now and the mechanic there is supposed to install the delete kit.

Should I have the delete kit installed now or have it sent in to a dealership to have the oil cooler addressed first?

Will a Ford shop work on a truck with a delete kit in it?

I would like to get this addressed but dont want any problems from the dealership in not wanting to work on it if modified. The shop I have it at now is not exactly impressing me - the mechanic who was to do the delete left for two weeks....and the one on duty says it looks to complicated to put in. The original Mech will be in monday - and supposedly start on it.

Which reminds me...does anyone know of a reputable diesel shop in western ND that would handle the delete if these guys back out - which just may happen monday?

Sorry for all the Q's.
I would wait and get a oil cooler from here BulletProofDiesel - Darn-Near Bullet Proof Diesel Products for your 6.0 then have someone install it. Then you need to do a flush and install ELC coolent problem solved.
ELC is the coolant recommended and used by International for this engine. .
Coolant Flush for changing to ELC

Drain coolant by removing lower radiator hose. Drain block from plug on drivers side of the block. Remove the thermostat. Replace plug in block and put lower hose back on. Put thermostat housing back on without thermostat. Fill with distilled water. run for 5 minutes then drain as above..Fill and run 5 more minutes drain. Put in 1 gallon of Restore an top with distilled water. Drive it for an 60-90 minutes then drain. Flush 2 times with distilled water or whatever it takes to come clear. Put 2 qts of VC-9 or 1 gallon of Restore+ cost less and fill with distilled water. Drive it for about 60-90 minutes. Drain and flush after. Flush 3 more times with distilled water untill it come out clean. Replace thermostat or put in a new one. Put hose back, make sure block plug is tight. Add 3.5 gallons of ELC concentrate and top off with distilled water. Make sure to run engine for 5 minutes between flushes to circulate the water good. Have heater on set to hi while doing this to flush the heater core too.
2 stroker
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  #9  
Old 12-19-2010, 08:38 PM
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If I can I am going to have the shop do the delete.

Then run it and see where I am at by taking it in to the Ford dealership and having it checked for error codes and for any problems on the oil cooler.

I miss my 7.3.............

I may get this one running right...and sell it. I dont need the headaches...
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Old 12-27-2010, 06:40 AM
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Well my small shop guy did the delete. He found some odd stuff.

There was coolant on top of the manifold, and dripping from the turbo, even the vanes of the turbo??

He still installed the kit, cleaned everything and refilled the coolant - and the smoke stopped and she seems to be running normally - no error codes and no check engine light.

He said the egr valve was dry - but totally filthy. He had left the egr valve in as he was afraid it would throw a code if removed - but it still smoked, once the egr valve was out the smoke ended.

She also seems to be holding her coolant.

Should I be worried?

Last edited by mandaree36; 12-27-2010 at 06:44 AM.
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