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post #1 of 18 Old 03-14-2010, 11:22 AM Thread Starter
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battery drain????

i have an 2005 with 6.0 it is a xl model i just replaced the alt. and both batteries yesterday and this morning the batteries had drained so much that the truck would not crank. i charged the batteries and cranked the truck the voltage from the alt. was 14.28v. i let the truck run for a while and when i cut it off the voltage on the batteries was 12.58 i went back out and checked the batteries again 3hrs later and the voltage was 12.18v what would be a good thing to check for the drain?
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post #2 of 18 Old 03-14-2010, 11:31 AM
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Have you hooked up anythig aftermarket? lights, stereo amps?

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post #3 of 18 Old 03-14-2010, 11:36 AM
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I have somewhat of the same problem. Not as bad as yours though.

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post #4 of 18 Old 03-14-2010, 11:37 AM Thread Starter
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no aftermarket anything
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post #5 of 18 Old 03-14-2010, 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by powerking View Post
nothing it is just like it was when it was brand new
ok, there is a cable that connects both batteries together, check it to make shure its not grounding out. It is between the radiator and core support.

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post #6 of 18 Old 03-14-2010, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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checked the cable pulled the wire out and went over it pretty good no cuts or anything showing
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post #7 of 18 Old 03-14-2010, 11:58 AM
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look here as well: 4 Amp Draw

this is how I found my drain

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Originally Posted by Ianstew
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post #8 of 18 Old 03-14-2010, 11:58 AM
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checked the cable pulled the wire out and went over it pretty good no cuts or anything showing
hmmm just to eliminate the possability of buying a bad battery, I would have them load tested. your alternator seems to be working fine

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post #9 of 18 Old 03-14-2010, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by ianstew View Post
look here as well: 4 Amp Draw

this is how I found my drain
Nice. Im about to go do that right now.

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*Scangauge
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post #10 of 18 Old 03-14-2010, 12:11 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ianstew View Post
no problem.
  1. The first thing I did was pull all terminals off the batteries except 1 positive.
  2. Then I used my Multimeter set to DC 10 amp, and hooked the positive lead of the multimeter to the negative cable, and then used a band clamp to hook it (negative MM lead) to the negative battery terminal. Long leads help alot, mine are 6 ft. If you dont have long leads, fashion some extensions out of wire and butt connectors. crimp one end of the wire with the butt connector, and insert the probe into the butt connector. red ones work great (16-18 gauge)
  3. I then pulled each fuse one by one and watched the MM. The MM will dispaly the amperage being drawn. (with nothin on, key off, i was drawing 4.12-4.18 amps, it should be 0 or .001-3) If your reading drops, then that circuit is drawing amperage when it shouldn't. And that gioves you a place to start.
  4. If you have pulled all fuses, and still have a draw, go to the fender selenoid and disconnect the wires from it. hook the wires back up one by one. hook your batt pos wire first and look at the MM. There should be no draw. Then hook the rest up one by one. The GP relay is hooked up here, the main feed to the UH and In cab fuse boxes, the battery pos, and the alternator charge. Mine didn't draw until I hooked up the alt charge line, so I figure it isd the Alt. drawing a charge.
  5. If you pull a fuse and your MM reading drops, then you can test that circuit. sometimes a simple continuity test from the fuse holder to ground will tell if you have a short, sometimes it won't. but you've at least narrowed it down!
I'lkl take some pics tomorrow for you guys. hope it helps someone.

NOTE: my truck is an OBS, i'm not sure of the SD's, but the same principles should still work.

So I disconnect all the cables except for one positive? Does it matter which one? Then put the positive on the negative cable(does it matter which one?). Then put the negative on the negative terminal (Which one?)

The Mullet Mod
Stock 2005 F-350 4x4
*Afe Intake
*4" TB Exhaust
*Scangauge
*SCT
*Bulletproof Diesel oil bypass
*Bulletproof Diesel water pump
*Tuned FICM
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