I have a 2006 F250 with about 180k miles. A few weeks ago it dropped one of the cylinders. I hooked up a computer to it and it said #8 cylinder was dead. I took it to a mechanic and they said the head gasket was blown out causing the pressure from the cylinder to shoot fuel and soot all over the engine bay (I'm getting a lot of exhaust from under the hood and everything is black). All my vitals on my SCT Tuner/scanner are reading normal, and I don't have a check engine light. I've had multiple people tell me multiple things. Some swear it's a head gasket, others swear it's multiple issued all at once. I have checked all the exhaust to the best of my ability (used toilet paper on a stick) and I couldn't find any leaks. All I could find is air coming from the engine itself by the #8 cylinder by the turbo, but it's not the turbo and I can't see where it's coming from exactly because it's hard to get to. It's also hard to see because there's so much exhaust smoke.
I took the cap off my oil fill thing and I didn't see any smoke coming from it, but if I hold a paper towel over it it moves slightly. I also switched injectors to see if that was an issue, and #8 is still dead. I looked at the lifters and they all seemed to be doing their thing, and I didn't notice anything to be concerned about. I removed the turbo, took it apart and cleaned the inside, and reinstalled it using new clamps to make sure they didn't leak. My oil looks good and I don't smell anything out of the ordinary from it, and my coolant isn't disappearing. I'm at a loss of where to really begin.
Can I remove the head and reinstall it with the old gasket if I'm careful taking it off? Can I reuse the bolts? I want to look at everything to see if it's in physical good shape but I can't afford headstuds right now. It's smoking an extreme amount to where I can't use my heat or it'll smoke out the cab. And I have a cloud of smoke following me everywhere I drive so I need to take care of this as soon as I can.
1st - head gaskets are not reusable and neither are the head bolts.
2nd - If you actually have combustion and fuel that is exiting between the block and head, you will also have coolant filling up the cylinder. you will need to have the heads milled and checked for cracks.
3rd- if there is no combustion in number 8, chances are there is no soot, but instead white or grey smoke from coolant and fuel getting hot. You probably still have a leak in the up pipe or manifold.
Your going to need someone to pull the cab and at the very least replace the gaskets and head bolts.
I also want to add that while idling it sounds like there's a lot of puffs of air under the hood, and then when I get the rpm's up to about 2k the puffs turn into pops. Almost like a 22 round going off under the hood repeatativly.
I haven't checked the intake to see if that's where it's coming from. It sounds like it's coming from the top of the engine near the back on the driver side. I'll double check to see if the intake is beig effected at all
Sounds like either a bent pushrod or damaged valve.
Or the valve bridge for exhaust valves on cyl 8 got knocked off.
Or broken rocker arm.
Basically exhaust valve (s) on cyl 8 aren't opening and exhaust is pushing back out the intake.
That'd be my theory anyways
Tomorrow I'll take a video of it just idling in the daylight. And when I checked under the truck, the noise seemed to be coming from up top and I couldn't see any leaks from down under
Yea that sounds like an exhaust valve not opening. To me anyways.
Pull the intercooler tube at the intake. Fire it up. Does it sound like the popping is coming out the intake?
Today about 45 minutes into my drive to work it died on me. After messing with it for a while I unplugged the ICP sensor and it started up. But once I put it into drive or pressed on the gas pedal it would die.
I remember the mechanic saying "I was expecting it to be a popped out glow plug, but that doesn't seem to be the issue". But I personally haven't looked to see. Mostly because I don't know where they're located on the engine.
Im not trying to be harsh but why are you driving this truck to work? Do the engine crank test using the starter wire and you should easily hear the mechanical problem and offending cylinder. Next I would pull the valve cover on that side. The damage should be obvious.
If your convinced its a head gasket, your wasting your time with any of this. It seems this may be a little beyond your current capabilities. A head gasket(s) repair usually goes way beyond what you think your going to spend. I wouldn't even attempt it without pulling the cab.
Im not trying to be harsh but why are you driving this truck to work? Do the engine crank test using the starter wire and you should easily hear the mechanical problem and offending cylinder. Next I would pull the valve cover on that side. The damage should be obvious.
If your convinced its a head gasket, your wasting your time with any of this. It seems this may be a little beyond your current capabilities. A head gasket(s) repair usually goes way beyond what you think your going to spend. I wouldn't even attempt it without pulling the cab.
I'm driving it because I have no other options to get to work. I just moved states to go to college and I don't have any friends or family to hitch a ride with or anything. If I could, I would much rather walk or take a bus to work, but none of those options are available because my commute to work is 50 miles round trip (I'm currently looking for a closer job or closer housing to my job), so my hands are tied. Last time I took it to a mechanic he told me the head gasket was bad, and it's not uncommon for people to drive a thousand miles on them without any major damage. Obviously I want to keep it to a minimum, but at least it assured me I can get a couple of paychecks before I needed to be too concerned.
Also, I had a guy look at it for me and he pulled the IPR valve off and the screen was broken. He then told me I needed a new HPOP and a new IPR valve. I just got paid today so I'm planning on purchasing all the parts I'll need and take care of it all at once. If I could pay a mechanic to do it, I would, but my budget won't allow it so I'll just learn as I go. I'm mechanically inclined, but I'm just new to this particular engine.
Joey, now you're throwing good money after bad. IPR screen ok 20 - 30 bucks. HPOP hell no! It is rare for a 2005, 2006, 2007 HPOP to go out. RARE. STC fitting yes. Now on the other hand if what's wrong with your truck has ground up parts and you're pushing metal fragments through then yeah. And LPOP, And oil cooler basically a bad engine. Man I hate to see you spend this money on a college budget.
Is there any way to clean out the oil to try to get all the junk out? Like a couple oil changes, change filters, etc..? And is the HPOP preventing it from starting, or the IPR?
This all goes back to the Head Gasket/ Bad Valve etc. I really can't tell what's going on without data, now we have a bad HPOP no crank?Can you post your general location and maybe a member is close enough he can get a better diagnosis on what's going on.
Okay cool, dont replace the hpop yet without testing if it is bad. Like said before, your model hpop is typically pretty strong. If the truck started with icp unplugged then you pretty much fooled the engine into thinking you have enough hpo to power the injectors. When you gave it some fuel it died because the truck doesnt actually have the correct hpo. You can attempt to clean the ipr with brake cleaner and by taking a screwdriver and expressing the plunger but chances are the ipr is bad. The ipr is cheaper than the hpop. You might want to look into a cheap obd reader for your phone, they are inexpensive and will help us (and you) diagnose what is happening. I would hate to see you throwing hard earned money at this if you dont have to.
I think I just had everything crap out at once. When the engine was running I felt around with my hand looking for the source of the leak. It was coming from the block which felt like in between the head and engine block. And my hand was wet when I removed it. So I'm very positive the gasket is leaking. I took off the valve cover and all the lifter stuff looked normal; nothing looked out of place or different than the others.
The broken IPR I think was just coincidence, or it happened because of the dead cylinder/ hot air spraying on it.
I'm located in Rexburg, Idaho. I work in Idaho falls, Idaho and my truck is currently in Idaho Falls.
I have a SCT X4 Tuner/monitor. What info are you curious in knowing? I honestly don't know what half of them should be at, but the numbers seemed to be around their usual place.
You need real diagnostic software like AE to see what's going on but if your seeing actual physical signs that you have a blown head gasket, then its game over anyway. Software wont mean squat at this point.
Although from what I have seen, the head gaskets usually fail in another area from what you have described.
Pulled off the IPR valve and the screen was broken. I replaced it and now my oil dummy gauge doesn't move when turning over and it won't fire up. Do I need the bleed air out or something?
Check to make sure the oil sending unit is plugged in. If your not making lpo then thats gonna be a bigger can of worms. Low pressure oil pump should already be primed, the high pressure oil system will likely have air in it and need to be primed.
Can remove the oil filter and hold down the black spring loaded valve to make sure oil filter housing is getting oil while someone else cranks
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